Introducing Bvlgari's new products for 2020: "Bvlgari Aluminum" and "Octo Finissimo" (Updated August 27th)

Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic

　Bvlgari, which holds five world records for thinnest watch, announced its sixth on August 26, 2020. The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic is a complex watch that combines an automatic chronograph with a tourbillon, powered by the 3.50mm-thick Cal. BVL 388 movement, with a case thickness of just 7.40mm.

　When it comes to thin automatic chronographs, the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic, released last year, likely comes to mind. This automatic chronograph with GMT function achieved Bulgari's fifth world record for thinnest watch. It uses a column wheel to control the chronograph mechanism, a horizontal clutch (carrying arm type) for power transmission, and a peripheral rotor with an oscillating weight on the outer periphery of the movement for its automatic winding mechanism. Powered by the 3.30mm thick Caliber BVL 318 movement, the case is just 6.90mm thick.

　This year's new model replaces the GMT mechanism with a more complex tourbillon mechanism. Furthermore, by skeletonizing the dial and movement, it is an ambitious piece that highlights the modern design and complex mechanism. What is noteworthy is how they managed to fit the chronograph mechanism and tourbillon carriage, which require a large amount of space, into the movement.

　Viewing the movement through the caseback reveals the differences between these two chronograph movements. The biggest difference is that the Cal. BVL 318 uses a carrying arm system to transmit power to the chronograph mechanism, while the Cal. BVL 388 employs a swing pinion system. Both use a horizontal clutch that connects and disconnects power by moving the seconds chronograph intermediate wheel sideways relative to the movement. However, the swing pinion system, which uses a pinion with a significantly smaller diameter than a gear for the intermediate wheel, has the advantage of allowing for a more compact chronograph mechanism. Focusing on the V-shaped intermediate wheel start/stop lever that connects the seconds chronograph wheel (chronograph runner) located in the center of the movement to the column wheel located at 5 o'clock from the dial side, you can see that the pinion corresponding to the seconds chronograph intermediate wheel is attached to the tip of the intermediate wheel start/stop lever on the second chronograph wheel side. This pinion swings back and forth, transmitting power from the tourbillon carriage at 6 o'clock on the dial side to the central seconds chronograph wheel. This horizontal clutch is called the swing pinion type.

　Another impressive feature is the V-shaped intermediate wheel start/stop lever, which is placed on top of the tourbillon carriage and cleverly incorporated into the skeletonized movement design. Furthermore, the L-shaped lever that straddles the central seconds chronograph wheel, the 30-minute totalizer wheel at 3 o'clock from the dial side, and the column wheel is also modernly hollowed out, blending exquisitely with the movement design. This lever is an integrated reset hammer. The totalizer is reset by striking the heart cams fixed to the seconds chronograph wheel and the 30-minute totalizer wheel with this reset hammer. Rather than providing a reset hammer for each wheel, the reset mechanism is integrated into the L-shape, making the reset mechanism compact.

　By freeing up space in the movement in this way, Bulgari has cleverly incorporated a substantial tourbillon cage into a slim chronograph movement.

　To achieve this slimness, the automatic winding rotor is positioned on the outer periphery of the movement as a peripheral rotor, eliminating overlap in the center. Furthermore, the absence of a winding stem for the crown ensures space for the chronograph mechanism (30-minute counter) without increasing the watch's thickness. A compact gear replaces the winding stem, enabling both mainspring winding and time setting. A gear with wolf teeth-shaped teeth located between 4 and 5 o'clock on the dial side switches between winding and time setting. Pressing the push button (function selector) at 4 o'clock rotates this gear to switch between winding and time setting. Therefore, like the Cal. BVL 318, the chronograph mechanism is operated by a push button at 2 o'clock, making it a one-push chronograph that switches between start, stop, and reset.

　Both the peripheral rotor and the function selector are mechanisms already installed in the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic, which achieved Bvlgari's fourth world thinnest record and was released in 2018. In other words, the new Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic, which has achieved Bvlgari's sixth world thinnest record, can be said to be the latest milestone built on the research and development capabilities, technical expertise, and well-developed know-how that Bvlgari has poured into the Octo Finissimo, having previously set five world thinnest records.

　This is nothing less than the achievement of Bulgari, which has pursued the thin movement of the Octo Finissimo collection and has positioned it as a complication, even in simple three-hand models.

The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic is equipped with the Caliber BVL 388. Bulgari caliber numbers indicate the number of parts in the movement. In other words, this Caliber BVL 388 is made up of 388 parts.

Bvlgari Aluminium

　On August 26, 2020, the first day of Geneva Watch Days in Geneva, Switzerland, Bvlgari unveiled a new model that will surely move the hearts of watch enthusiasts. First and foremost, it's the new-generation model of the Bvlgari Aluminum, which was released in 1998 and made a huge impact on the watch industry with its bold use of aluminum and rubber—materials unexpected for a luxury watch—for its exterior, and its bold challenge to create a genderless, timeless design that transcends gender, age, and era. At the time, Bvlgari was already firmly established as a high jeweler and a globally popular brand, so it was only natural that this new model, which broke with conventional wisdom in the watch industry, would attract attention.

　Using aluminum instead of precious metals for the case and bracelet not only reduces weight, but also uses a ``fresh material'' for the watch industry that is neither gold nor stainless steel, thereby creating a borderless ``code'' that does not determine the wearer's social status based on the case material.

　In addition, the bezel and bracelet are made of black rubber, and the brand name is engraved in large letters on the bezel, making it an instantly recognizable icon. Even now, more than 20 years after the release of the first generation, the "Bvlgari Aluminum" is still vividly imprinted in the memories of watch enthusiasts, proving that this model has become a timeless icon.

　The new generation of Bvlgari Aluminium for 2020 not only maintains the same innovative qualities as before, but also incorporates the achievements that the Bvlgari Group has made as a manufacture over the past 20 years.

　The most symbolic change is that both the three-hand model and the chronograph, which previously had a diameter of 38mm, have now been enlarged to 40mm. The shape of the lugs has also been revised to match the new case size, improving the fit. Furthermore, water resistance has been improved from the previous daily use level to 100m, greatly expanding the range of situations in which the three-hand model and chronograph can be worn in everyday life. Now, as a Manufacture, the Bvlgari Group also produces the cases and bracelets in-house, demonstrating their true potential.

　The biggest concern for many users is the durability of the aluminum alloy used in the case. While no details have been revealed at this time, the release clearly states that the case has been made "even more durable."

　Looking back now, the first generation Bvlgari Aluminum, with its use of materials that avoided precious metals and its sporty design, was undoubtedly a pioneer of the "informal watches" or "multi-purpose watches" that watch manufacturers are currently focusing on.

　The new generation Bvlgari Aluminum has been reborn, leveraging its universality. We hope you will pick up the actual product, scheduled for release in September 2020, and experience the comprehensive strength of modern Bvlgari.