The "Bvlgari Magic" Octo Roma Chronograph, whose character has changed through minor improvements

It is quite difficult to change the character of a watch while maintaining the same design, especially if it is a watch with a strong design. However, in 2023, Bulgari succeeded in this attempt with the Octo Roma. At first glance, the design is the same. However, by changing the details, the character of the Octo Roma has been changed from dressy to sporty. The new Octo Roma demonstrates Bulgari's extraordinary skill and maturity as a watchmaker.

New details bring similar yet different characters

　The Octo collection has become an icon of Bulgari. This year, the Octo Roma, which was launched in 2017, has undergone a model change. At first glance, the angular design is the same as before. However, the character has been changed from dressy to sporty. Bulgari's skill in completely changing the character without making major changes to the design is truly impressive.

　The Octo, featuring octagons and polyhedrons, was a new generation luxury watch that could only be made in this day and age. To ensure precision, the case is essentially machine-finished. Bulgari apparently took it very seriously when it came to this model, having even gone to the trouble of installing an 8-axis machine tool. The Octo was a success, and Bulgari added the slim Octo Finissimo and the Octo Roma as variations.

　It was after the launch of the Finissimo in 2014 that the Octo gained global recognition. Not only did its thin case further emphasize the Octo's multifaceted design, but its eight world records for thinness made it a household name. However, the more successful the Finissimo became, the weaker the Octo's position became. Bulgari, on the other hand, sought to differentiate itself from the Finissimo through subtle modifications. The 2017 model change to the Octo Roma was an attempt to bring it closer to a dress watch. With a lacquered dial and modified indices and lugs, the Octo Roma gained a Bulgari-Bulgari look.

　The new 23 edition is a complete redesign of this dress watch, with a sporty feel. There are two key points: legibility and design. In 21, Bulgari Group CEO Jean-Christophe Babin told me, "The legibility of the dial is an important element (for watches). A beautiful and timeless design is of course necessary, but legibility will become even more important in the future." Having improved the legibility of the Finissimo with a perpetual calendar and chronograph, Bulgari applied this technique to the Octo Roma, their core collection.

　The first thing that catches your eye about the 2023 Octo Roma is the luminous material incorporated into the indices and hands, as well as the three-faceted hands. By increasing the surface area, the hands are less likely to be lost in strong light. In addition, the dial finish has been changed from lacquer to a guilloched-style embossed pattern, further enhancing the contrast with the hands. While the same effect could have been achieved with other patterns, the Clous de Paris pattern seems appropriate for the Octo, which emphasizes geometric shapes. Additionally, the date display, which was previously black on some models, has been deliberately changed to white. The reason, of course, is for legibility.

　The case has also been redesigned. The new release states, "The crown is seamlessly integrated into the case design, achieving smooth lines." This is exactly what sets it apart from the Finissimo. Not only have the slope of the lugs been lowered and the curves towards the sides been emphasized, but the sides have also been made more prominent, allowing for the addition of a crown guard. The case is thicker than the Finissimo, but the lugs do not get caught and the presence of the crown guard means it can be used with confidence even if it is used roughly. However, the way the curves are incorporated is clever, and when viewed from the front, the design is almost the same as before.

　It is equipped with the in-house Cal. BVL191 and the BVL399, which combines a Dubois-Dépraz module. The power reserve is a little short, but the smooth feel of the hand setting and the lack of play in the crown are unusual for a mass-produced watch. The large sub-dials are likely for the sake of legibility.

　The Octo Roma Chronograph has been given a completely new character through subtle modifications. Its distinctly sporty character is unlike any other Octo to date. Moreover, none of the Octo's distinctive three-dimensional design has been compromised.

　What a Magic!