Tokyo Shiba Tofuya Ukai (Shiba Park) / Creator of otherworldly delicacies

2023.09.10

Located at the foot of Tokyo Tower, Tokyo Shiba Tofu-ya Ukai is spread across an area of ​​approximately 2000 square meters. Chef Kobayashi Miki talks about the charm of the old-fashioned space and signature dishes that are loved by guests from Japan and abroad.

Bean water and tofu

Bean water and tofu
It is a blend of the finest soybeans, including "Otofuke Osodeburi" and "Yukihomare" from Hokkaido, "Nakasennari" from Nagano Prefecture, and "Fukuyutaka" from Saga Prefecture. To ensure that the rich flavor and smooth texture of the original soybeans that are unique to "Mame Mizu Tofu" are preserved, the type and blend ratio are changed depending on the season, with the discerning eye of our skilled artisans. Try it as is at first, and then add salted kelp for the rest to make it even sweeter.
Interview and text by Yui Togawa
Photographs by Yu Mitamura
[Article published in the July 2023 issue of Kronos Japan]


The luxury of eating stylish tofu in a charming restaurant

Miki Kobayashi

Takashi Kobayashi
Born in Tokyo in 1966. Having grown up watching his father work as a Japanese confectioner, he aspired to become a chef. After training at Japanese restaurants around Japan, he joined Ukai Co., Ltd. in 2005 when "Tokyo Shiba Tofu-ya Ukai" opened. In 2014, he was appointed head chef of "Tofu-ya Ukai Saginuma Branch," and has held his current position since March 2011.

The concept of "Step through the noren curtain and you're transported to Edo" is perfectly true. With a 200-year-old sake brewery and a building made from old wood from a wealthy farmer's mansion, pine trees over 100 years old and a pond filled with Nishikigoi carp... One step onto the premises and you'll forget you're in the heart of the city. Although Tokyo Shiba Tofu-ya Ukai is located at the foot of Tokyo Tower, you cannot see it from the private dining rooms. This is because it is a restaurant that conveys the food culture of Edo. The items displayed throughout are also excellent, and we hear many guests are delighted, saying it feels like an art gallery or museum.

 Their specialty, "Mamemizu Tofu," is a superb dish made with tofu made from a blend of four carefully selected soybeans, served with soy milk and a secret special broth. "We have a tofu section in the kitchen, and a dedicated chef. As soon as it starts to simmer, we turn off the heat, put the lid on, and serve it to the customer. The residual heat from the Arita ware pot slowly transfers heat, allowing you to enjoy it at the perfect temperature."

So says head chef Kobayashi Miki. The glossy tofu is a pure white color. Its elegant square shape leaves no room for gimmicks. When you put it in your mouth, you feel a refreshing sensation, as if your taste buds are reset. Perhaps it is because tofu is an ingredient we eat so often that we are so struck by the difference in its flavor. If you visit in the summer, the chilled "Matsumae Tofu," a round piece of tofu floating on a refreshing bowl of water shield, is also hard to resist.

 Another specialty, "age dengaku," is grilled in the dengaku restaurant in the courtyard and swiftly carried by waiters in hakama (traditional hakama) at the counter. It's like a scene from a movie unfolding outside the window. The course menu, centered around these two specialties and comprised of delicate dishes showcasing the artisanal techniques, conveys the changing of the seasons. Chef Kobayashi says that he not only enjoys preparing the food, but also spending time with guests, and he demonstrates his skills with the belief that he wants to deliver excitement and joy to his guests.

 After finishing my meal, I gazed back at Tokyo Tower and returned to reality. I realized that my heart had been enriched by Ukai's atmosphere, cuisine, and hospitality.


Tofu shop Ukai, Shiba, Tokyo

Tofu shop Ukai, Shiba, Tokyo

Located in the heart of the city, the restaurant is equipped with 55 private rooms. It is a popular venue for entertaining important guests from overseas, and also serves celebratory meals such as the first meal. The on-site souvenir shop also sells takeaway meals.

4-4-13 Shibakoen, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel. 03-3436-1028
Closed on Mondays (open on public holidays)
12:00~LO14:30, 17:00~LO19:00,
Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays 11:00-LO19:00
Weekday-only lunch courses from 8800 yen, dinner courses from 14,000 yen
(10% service charge not included)


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