
[Japan Limited]
This Japan-only model features a second hand at 7 o'clock. It features a 36mm case instead of the standard 39mm. It's hand-wound (Cal. 102.0). 21,600 vph. 26 jewels. Approximately 48-hour power reserve. 18KRG (36mm diameter, 8.32mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 2.8 million yen. Scheduled for release in March.
Right: Tefnut
[Japan Limited]
This is a "Japan Limited" 18K white gold model. Unlike the Benu and Atum, which have flared cases, the Tefnut has a tapered case back. This makes it feel smaller on the wrist than it actually is. The crown is small to accommodate the small movement, but the winding and hand-turning feel are excellent. Priced at 2.9 million yen. Scheduled for release in March.
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Moritz Grossmann's new bass movement
Cal. 102.0, released in 2015.
While the company has always placed the highest priority on robustness, this time it has also paid close attention to expandability and aesthetics.
This was made possible by an offset drive train.
How did the design team manage to fit this difficult-to-handle "modern gear train" into the watch?
MuMoritz Grossmann has always placed a high priority on robustness when designing its movements. Their philosophy of making movements as large and thick as possible without considering expandability has given their movements the robustness of classic pocket watches. However, the company appears not to have been indifferent to the trend toward thinner and more compact movements. The Tefnut, released in 2015, is equipped with the new Caliber 102.0 movement, which combines robustness and thinness. Generally, the thinner and smaller a movement, the worse its durability and accuracy become. The history of modern wristwatch movements has been about how to improve these characteristics, rather than letting them worsen. Jens Schneider and Norwiet Windecker, who were responsible for the designs, explain the design elements of the 102 series as follows:
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"There were two aims: to create a base on which to mount additional functions, and to more clearly show the movement's design." The reason "toughness" was not listed as a condition is because it goes without saying for the company. |
Cal. 102.0
This manual-winding movement features a structure that emphasizes the balance wheel. The second wheel is off-center and the baseplate is flat, resulting in a clean design. While its 26.0 mm diameter and 3.45 mm thickness are by no means thin, they are nothing short of impressive when you consider the dimensions, which were chosen with robustness in mind. |
Cal. 102.0 seen from the back. Windecker's intention of "creating a simple and beautiful movement" is clear. What can be seen in the center is not the "second wheel" but the "second pinion." The barrel can be seen slightly from the 3/5 plate, as "the barrel is the most beautiful part, so I wanted to give it a glimpse."
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Windecker added a few more aesthetic considerations. The ARCAP gears used from the Benu Tourbillon onwards were intended to unify the movement's colour to silver. Furthermore, the fine regulator mechanism that was previously mounted on the balance cock has had its adjustment range narrowed and is now housed within the balance cock. Windecker is even more of a "principler" than Schneider when it comes to the position of the regulator. He has a history of teaching at A. Lange & Söhne's watchmaking school. "In a well-adjusted movement, the regulator should naturally be located in the centre of the balance cock." |
Even with aesthetics in mind, Moritz Grossmann never neglects the watch's functionality as a watch. The opening on the back of the main plate has been made extremely small, and unnecessary holes have been removed. This is to ensure the rigidity of the thin main plate. Perhaps because they didn't want to cut down the main plate, the stop-seconds mechanism is thinner and simpler than the Benu. However, considering the relatively smaller moment of inertia of the balance wheel, this is sufficient. The winding mechanism has also been made smaller, but to increase durability, it has been further unitized and some parts have been reinforced. Incidentally, I don't like putting a small-diameter movement in a large case. Not only does it detract from the aesthetics, but it also places greater strain on the movement. However, Grossmann has responded by strengthening the winding mechanism. The scalability of the watch as a "general-purpose watch" is also reflected in the winding mechanism.
The consideration for durability is also evident in the relationship between the barrel and balance. The mainspring torque is 700g-mm. It's weaker than the ETA2892-A2, but slightly stronger than the Pezeau 7001. However, the balance wheel's moment of inertia is 13g-cm2, nearly three times that of the Pezeau. The reason a weak mainspring can rotate a large balance wheel and still extend the power reserve is due to what Windecker calls a "weak balance spring." Incidentally, I'm not a fan of the modern design concept of weakening the balance spring's elasticity to increase the balance wheel's inertia or extend the power reserve. However, increasing the frequency from 18,000 vph to 21,600 vph would be perfectly acceptable. Grossmann incorporates modern design concepts without going overboard.


Upper right: The torque of the mainspring of Cal.102.0 is standard at 700g-mm. However, it uses the same jewel-bridge barrel as the Benu Tourbillon, and is compatible with eccentricity countermeasures and accelerometer adjustment.
Bottom left: The beryllium copper balance wheel has a relatively large moment of inertia of 13g·cm2. The swing angle at time T0 is approximately 300 degrees, and remains at approximately 270 degrees at time T24. The horizontal and vertical deviation is also excellent, remaining within 20 to 30 degrees.
The Caliber 102 series was originally designed as a two-hand movement. However, the Japan-limited model released in 2016 features a second hand at the 7 o'clock position. As the photo shows, even with the addition of a second hand, which was not intended at the time of design, the dial layout remains natural. While the insight of the Japanese subsidiary that planned it is certainly admirable, the skill of the design team, who designed it so that it would not look out of place even with the addition of a second hand, is what should be praised. The new Caliber 102 series places emphasis on scalability. The design is, as expected, full of the originality and careful consideration that is characteristic of Moritz Grossmann.
