An interview with Ander Ugarte, head of Tudor's design department. The inside story behind the development of the new Pelagos FXD.

Tudor has become a sponsor of the sailing team, Alinghi Red Bull Racing, and has announced the Pelagos FXD "Alinghi Red Bull Racing" and Pelagos FXD Chrono "Alinghi Red Bull Racing." These are Tudor's first carbon fiber models and the first chronographs in the Pelagos collection. Europa Star attended the launch and had the opportunity to speak with Ander Ugarte, who has designed all of Tudor's watches since 2007.

Tudor and Alinghi Red Bull Racing enter into partnership

　Today's America's Cup yachts aren't really yachts, any more than F1 cars are traditionally cars. Alinghi Red Bull Racing, the Swiss team behind the America's Cup, calls its Boat Zero a midnight blue, red, and yellow livery. Its bullet-shaped hull literally soars through the water.

　The organically curved foils on either side of the 75-foot-long (23-meter) hull resemble those of a humpback whale, but the key difference is that the hull is made of ultra-light carbon fiber and titanium, and it can reach speeds four times the wind speed. The Boat Zero can exceed 100 kilometers per hour. One wrong turn or wrong wave reading can bring the boat to a sudden and violent halt.

"It's like crashing into a concrete wall," says Nicolas Loras, a former Optimist (under-15) world champion and the youngest member of Alinghi Red Bull Racing. The high-tech, computer-controlled performance and know-how are so advanced that the racing team members say, "it doesn't even feel like sailing anymore." That's why the eight-person crew wears impact-resistant helmets with intercoms in the cockpit.

　And now they're wearing Tudor watches. In 2022, Tudor sponsored Alinghi Red Bull Racing for the 37th America's Cup. A year later, Tudor announced two new Pelagos FXD watches created for the racing team: a 42mm model with chronometer certification for high-precision timekeeping, and a 43mm chronograph model with a stopwatch—the first Pelagos model.

　We attended the official launch in Barcelona, ​​home of Alinghi Red Bull Racing, in June 2023 and interviewed Ander Ugarte, a member of Tudor's design lab, which has been responsible for not only the Black Bay but all of Tudor's watches since 2007.

An interview with Ander Ugarte, designer of Tudor

Europa Star:What was the inspiration behind the two new models joining the Pelagos FXD?

Ander Ugarte:We wanted to create the first watch made from the same materials as the Alinghi Red Bull Racing yachts: carbon fiber, titanium and stainless steel. We chose blue and red as the overall color scheme to incorporate the team colors and logo into the design.

　In terms of functionality, we wanted to provide the team with a watch that could be used underwater but was not a traditional diver's watch. For the same reason, the bezel is bidirectional and serves as a countdown to the start of the regatta. It was also important that the watch be robust, which is why we chose the Pelagos FXD's monobloc case and a strap that can be worn conveniently over a wetsuit.

Europa Star:What was the biggest challenge in the production process?

Ander Ugarte:Carbon fiber was a new material for us, so we learned a lot. New development takes time. This time, it took us six months just to develop the mold.

Europa Star:How big was this announcement for Tudor?

Ander Ugarte:It was important for several reasons. First, it opened the door to new materials technologically, which was a very important step for Tudor. Second, we want to raise awareness through sponsorships.

Europa Star:Red Bull is known for being young and rebellious. How challenging was it to capture that brand image in a Tudor watch?

Ander Ugarte:It wasn't that hard, actually. It wasn't just Red Bull, it was a joint project with Alinghi Red Bull Racing. The team was formed because they felt that to win the America's Cup they needed to go further than they had before. Red Bull had no experience in the America's Cup, but they had a good track record in Formula 1. Teaming up with Alinghi was like coming together with someone who had a similar spirit: always innovating and striving for more.

Tudor Designs Are Bolder and More Experimental

Europa Star:You previously worked at Rolex and are now the head of design at Tudor. What are the major differences between Tudor and Rolex?

Ander Ugarte:Tudor and Rolex, though they share the same DNA and culture of high quality, are two different worlds, with the most visible difference being Tudor's bolder designs and more experimentation with new materials.

Europa Star:How did you manage to transition from designing for one brand to another?

Ander Ugarte:Many brands have one iconic watch, but at Rolex, the entire collection is iconic. When you sign on as a designer, it can be overwhelming. At Tudor, I've always worked in small steps. First, I searched the archives for a new identity and found a product that evokes the brand's DNA. Then, in 2010, we launched our first chronograph, and in 2012, the Black Bay. These were the watches that launched us.

Looking critically at past designs for the better

Europa Star:As a designer, what do you do to keep Tudor popular?

Ander Ugarte:We continue to refine and redefine our existing models in detail, which means constantly looking critically at what we do to make it better - this applies to quality, design, manufacturing, marketing, and everything in between.

Europa Star:What is your approach when developing a new design?

Ander Ugarte:There's no particular method, it's intuitive, I feel things and then I put them on paper or on objects.

Europa Star:Can you give me an example?

Ander Ugarte:The Black Bay is a good example. I looked at every dive watch that Tudor has made throughout their history, analyzed them, and tried to understand what makes them so special. When I look at old watches, I'm inspired by their beauty. I see how the luminous paint and dials change and take on warmer hues. It gives the watch its charm and heritage, or "solera" as we say in Spanish.

　Also, the domed dial can make the watch look different in the light. I try to find out what makes a watch so charismatic. I don't just copy the original, I try to adapt it. Then I combine it with something small and new and see the results in sketches. Of course, feedback from others helps too.

The Black Bay P01 is the craziest design of the last few years

Europa Star:What's the craziest model design you've seen in recent years?

Ander Ugarte:The Black Bay P01. We visited Tudor's Heritage department and they showed us their archive collection. There was a drawer full of prototypes from the 1960s. They were like Frankenstein watches, super functional watches developed for the US Navy. They were trying to create an unusual bezel locking mechanism, and I thought, "This watch is so fascinating!" I told my boss we needed to do something with it. He agreed, and we built many prototypes over the years, but every time, management would say, "No, no, it's impossible. It's a monster."

　In the end, we revised the design many times and convinced them by explaining what we wanted to achieve. The Black Bay P01 is connected to the brand's history of developing products for the US Navy and is connected to the brand's spirit. We managed to transform it into something modern. The model was met with mixed reviews, with watch enthusiasts divided into those who loved it and those who hated it. But we achieved our goal of getting people talking about Tudor again.

Europa Star:Which watch design are you most proud of?

Ander Ugarte:The challenge is not to be a watch designer, but to be able to create all kinds of watches. What personally gives me the most satisfaction is the commercial success of the various watches in the current Tudor catalogue: not only the Black Bay and Pelagos, but also the Tudor Royal, 1926 and Clair de Rose. Each model serves a specific purpose. That is my job as a designer.