Learn about watch movements. Masterpieces and their models

When choosing a watch, the movement is one of the most important factors. There are several types of movements depending on the drive system and winding method. Here we will introduce the types and mechanisms of watch movements, as well as famous models and timepieces that have been used over the years.

The movement is the engine of the watch

The movement is the core component that powers a watch. It is like the engine in a car, and plays such an important role that watches are classified according to the type of movement they have.

Wristwatch movements can be broadly divided into "mechanical" and "quartz" movements. Let's take a look at the differences between each type and how they work.

"Mechanical" watches powered by mainsprings

Mechanical movements are powered by winding a mainspring. The power of the mainspring unwinding after winding makes the watch run.

In a mechanical movement, the following mechanisms each perform their own function to make the watch work.

• Barrel and mainspring
• Wheel train
• Escapement/Governor

The mainspring and the barrel that houses it are the source of power. From here, power is transmitted to the minute and second hands through the gear train, causing the time to tick. The escapement is the part that converts the rotational motion of the gear train into left and right motion using the escape wheel and anchor, and transmits it to the regulator.

The regulator has the role of adjusting the speed of a watch. The parts around the balance wheel are all called regulators, but the terms balance wheel and regulator are often used interchangeably.

"Quartz type" powered by electricity

A movement that uses a quartz oscillator to regulate its speed is called a quartz movement, and most of them are powered by a battery.

When pressure is applied to quartz crystal, a piezoelectric effect is observed, whereby positive electricity is generated from one surface and negative electricity is generated from the other surface. When the crystal is pulled, the positive and negative charges are reversed.

Another feature of quartz crystal is that when positive and negative electricity is applied alternately to both sides of the crystal, the crystal expands and contracts due to the inverse piezoelectric effect. A quartz crystal oscillator uses this property to vibrate by applying voltage.

Quartz movements work by vibrating a quartz crystal with voltage, which converts the vibrations into electrical signals that power the motor. The higher the vibration frequency, the more accurate the movement and the less likely it is to go out of sync.

There are different types of mechanical movements

Even in this day and age when battery- and solar-powered watches are commonplace, mechanical movements continue to fascinate watch enthusiasts. One of the reasons for this is the variety of ways to wind and position a watch.

Mechanical movements are divided into two types: "automatic" and "manual" depending on the winding method. Furthermore, while watch manufacturers manufacture their own movements, there are also general-purpose movements that are used by multiple watch manufacturers.

Automatic and manual winding

There are two types of winding methods for mechanical movements: automatic, which uses the rotation of the rotor to wind the movement automatically, and manual, which is wound by turning the crown.

With an automatic watch, the semicircular rotor rotates and winds the mainspring depending on the position of the watch when worn. There is no need to wind it by hand, but if the watch is not worn for a long time, it will stop.

In the case of a manual winding watch, the mainspring is wound manually by turning the crown. Although it takes time, the absence of a rotor covering the movement allows for a slimmer design, and it is easier to appreciate the movement's structure.

A general-purpose mechanical movement is also called an "ébauche."

The word "ébauche" originally referred to an unfinished movement, but in today's watch industry, the term "ébauche" generally refers to a general-purpose movement made by a movement manufacturer (ébauche maker).

Once shipped as a finished product, the ébauches are then decorated and customized by the watch manufacturer before being incorporated into mass-produced models.

Well-known ébauche makers include ETA, Sellita, and Kenissi, but there are also some manufacturers, such as Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, that specialize in producing ébauches for luxury watches.

It is also important to remember that the manufacturing process for watches using ébauches is called "établisseur" and is distinguished from "manufacture," which is a process in which all production is carried out in-house.

How to identify a watch movement

There are several types of watch movements, depending on the power source and winding method. Let's learn how to distinguish between them so you can choose a watch based on its movement. We'll explain how to check both by holding it in your hand and by looking online.

Determine by the movement and sound of the second hand

If you can pick up a watch in a store, try to distinguish the movement by looking and listening. The first thing to pay attention to is how the second hand moves.

A watch with a quartz movement moves its second hand every second. This is because the vibrations of a quartz crystal oscillator are converted into an electrical signal every second. On the other hand, a mechanical movement is powered by the force of a mainspring unwinding, so the second hand moves smoothly without stopping.

The sound is also a factor in distinguishing the movement. Even within the same mechanical watch, an automatic watch with a built-in rotor will make a sound when shaken.

Another way to tell the difference between an automatic and a manual winding is to actually turn the crown. If you can feel it turn and stop, you know it's a manual winding movement.

Check the official specs

When searching for a watch online, you can find out the type of movement by looking at the manufacturer's official product information. In the section that lists the model's specifications, you will often find information about the movement, such as "Movement type: Quartz" or "Automatic chronograph."

The names of the specifications vary depending on the manufacturer and brand. To give a few examples, the Japanese version of the website states:

• Rolex: Technical Details
• IWC: details
• Zenith: Technical Specifications

In both cases, the specifications, including the type, are listed under "Movement." If you find a manufacturer or brand that you like, it would be useful to remember the name of the category.

A masterpiece movement that has made its mark in watchmaking history

The movements, which can be said to be the heart of a watch, have been produced countless times throughout the history of watches, and there is a wide variety of movements used in watches today.

However, there are certainly some masterpieces that have left their mark on history. Here we will introduce three mechanical movements that still capture the hearts of watch enthusiasts today.

1942 Omega "Cal.321"

Cal. 321 is the movement used in the watch carried on the Apollo 11 moon landing. Its distinctive feature is its compact size of just 27mm in diameter, despite being equipped with a 12-hour counter.

At the time, the 12-hour counter, a chronograph function, was only found in large watches with movements measuring 30mm or more in diameter.

In 1942, Omega commissioned a designer from the movement manufacturer Lemania to successfully incorporate a 12-hour counter into a 27mm movement, resulting in the creation of the Caliber 321.

Caliber 321 was used in Omega's flagship model, the Speedmaster, and accompanied the great human achievement of landing on the moon.

1969 Zenith El Primero (Cal. 3019PHC)

The El Primero (Cal. 3019PHC) is an automatic chronograph movement developed by Zenith. Since its launch in 1969, it has been renowned as a classic for over half a century.

In the late 1960s, several Swiss manufacturers were competing fiercely in the development of automatic chronograph movements. In Japan, Seiko sold the world's first wristwatch equipped with an automatic chronograph in May 1969.

However, Zenith had announced the El Primero and a prototype equipped with it in January 1969. The El Primero was characterized by its high precision, beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour (10 vibrations per second/5Hz).

The El Primero, which is still installed in Zenith's current models, is a legendary movement that has supported the company's watches to this day.

1977 Longines "Cal. L990"

The Caliber L990, often called a late bloomer, was a movement that Longines developed after much hardship. In the early 1970s, when Longines' business had stabilized, the company began work on developing a new automatic movement.

The Cal. L890 was born from the idea of ​​increasing torque by rotating two barrels stacked one above the other at high speed, and the Cal. L990 is a thinner version of this.

The name Caliber L990 is no longer used, as it was sold to the ébauche maker Nouvelle Lemania (now Breguet). However, it is still used in Breguet watches in a modified form, contributing to the company's popularity.

A watch powered by a masterpiece movement

The masterpiece movements of the past are still popular even after the passage of time. In fact, reproductions of these movements are sometimes even made. Here we will introduce three attractive models powered by these legendary movements.

Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321 311.30.40.30.01.001

The Speedmaster is Omega's signature collection. As its name suggests, the Speedmaster Cal. 321 is a watch derived from the Cal. 321 that was born in 1942. It is equipped with a reproduction of the Cal. 321 and features a tachymeter on the bezel.

This model also features a stainless steel three-link bracelet with a black ceramic ZrO2 bezel ring and a vintage Omega logo at the 12 o'clock position.

Zenith Chronomaster Revival El Primero A384 03.A384.400/21.M384

The Chronomaster Revival is a series that faithfully reproduces the original Zenith watch. One of these, the Chronomaster Revival El Primero A384, is equipped with the El Primero Caliber 400, an improved version of the El Primero Caliber 3019PHC.

In addition to the tonneau case and panda dial, the design faithfully reproduces the original model, including the adoption of a steel ladder bracelet. Released in 2019 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the birth of El Primero.

Breguet Marine Duotimer 3700

Longines' masterpiece movement, Cal. L990, was succeeded by Nouvelle Lemania's Cal. Lemania 8810, which was then replaced by Breguet's Cal. 563.

The Marine Duotimer 3700 was equipped with this Cal. 563. It featured a 38mm case, which was large for the time, and a Louis Cottier-style world timer. The dial was guilloched to resemble a globe.

Although this model is no longer in production, it is still available on the second-hand market, so if you're interested, it might be worth taking the time to look for one.

Choosing a watch based on its movement is one way

The movement is an important core component of a watch, and can be considered its heart. Different movements affect not only usability but also the movement of the hands and the sound the watch makes. Although it is a component that is not often visible from the outside, it is important to remember the differences if you want to choose a watch without compromising.

There are many types of movements, from classics and their reproductions to newly developed ones. One way to choose a watch is to base it on the movement it is equipped with.