What kind of brand is Breitling? A thorough explanation of its history and current collection!

2024.04.29

Breitling watches have an appeal that is backed by history and technical expertise. Known as a specialist in chronographs, Breitling is a brand that becomes even more appealing when you learn about its history. We will introduce the history and appeal of the brand along with recommended watches.

Breitling


Breitling's reputation for chronographs

Breitling is a Swiss watch brand known for its masculine, robust, and functionally beautiful chronographs. Since its founding in 1884, Breitling has continued to create timepieces that impress even watch enthusiasts.

Learn about the brand's history to understand the appeal of Breitling watches. Learn about the brand's origins, its evolution, and its current initiatives.

A history that began as a precision machinery workshop

Leon Breitling

In 1884, at the tender age of 24, Léon Breitling opened a precision instrument manufacturing workshop in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, and expanded the business over the next few years. He then moved his base of operations to La Chaux-de-Fonds, where he established a watchmaking base. He focused primarily on improving timekeeping instruments, building a solid foundation for the brand as a prestigious chronograph brand.

Breitling's origins date back to the workshop opened by Leon Breitling in the Swiss mountain village of Saint-Imier in 1884. The uniquely designed watches that Leon created became the foundation of Breitling's innovative technology.

Breitling later moved to the watchmaking center of La Chaux-de-Fonds and became a leader in luxury chronographs in the early 20th century.

Breitling was taken over by his son Gaston in 1914, who created the first wristwatch chronograph the following year.

Gaston Breitling

Léon's son, Gaston Breitling, took over the brand in 1914 and continued the business. In 1915, he developed a wristwatch-style chronograph with dedicated chronograph pushers. He continued to improve the chronograph, establishing the status of the wearable watch as an instrument worn on the wrist.

During World War II, Breitling received an order for aviation instruments from the Royal Air Force, and since then, Breitling has been an unwavering supporter of the aviation industry. From the wartime period to the present, Breitling has continued to be loved by the aviation industry as a specialist in pilot watches.

Sustainability Initiatives

Navitimer 36 and Navitimer 32

The Navitimer 36 and Navitimer 32, released in 2023, use laboratory-grown diamonds, ensuring traceability to certified producers that meet the SCS-007 Sustainability Rating Diamond Standard.

Breitling, which has a history of over 130 years since its founding, continues to grow today. As the world pays attention to the SDGs, Breitling is also seriously working to achieve sustainability.

The Annual Sustainability Mission Report, published on the company's official website, outlines the challenges Breitling is addressing each year and its vision for sustainability.

Specific initiatives include the use of sustainable materials, such as using only upcycled plastic bottles for watch boxes and incorporating "lab-grown diamonds," which are artificially created in laboratories and factories rather than mined.


The History of Breitling Chronographs

The history of Breitling's chronographs is crucial to understanding the brand. Let's take a look at the history of Breitling's chronographs from the time of the company's move to La Chaux-de-Fonds until 1944, at the end of World War II.

1896: Release of ultra-high precision chronograph pocket watch

In 1896, four years after the company moved from its workshop in Saint-Imier to its watch factory in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a major milestone occurred for Breitling chronographs: Léon Breitling introduced a highly accurate chronograph pocket watch with an accuracy of just 0.4 seconds per day, an unprecedented feat.

The technology behind highly accurate pocket watch chronographs was passed on to the wristwatch chronographs that later appeared.

Nine years later, in 1905, Breitling patented a tachymeter for pocket watches, and it could be said that the foundation for Breitling's wristwatch chronographs was already laid at this stage.

1915: Release of wristwatch chronograph

The world's first wristwatch-type chronograph

In 1915, the world's first wristwatch chronograph was released, featuring an independent push button at the 2 o'clock position.

Breitling introduced its first wristwatch chronograph the year after Leon Breitling's son, Gaston, took over the business.

The wristwatch-style chronograph announced at this time was a one-push type with a pusher separate from the crown at the 2 o'clock position. Pressing the pusher starts the measurement, pressing it again stops it, and pressing it again resets it.

Until then, the start, stop, and zero reset operations had been performed using the crown, but the separate pushers made it possible to operate the chronograph more accurately and easily. The world was in the midst of war, and Breitling's highly functional chronographs saw increasing demand for them in the military.

1934: The pusher position was changed to what it is today.

Chronograph with two buttons for start/stop and reset

In 1934, the company introduced a chronograph with two buttons: start/stop and reset.

Breitling's first wristwatch chronograph may seem a little strange to those familiar with modern chronographs, which typically have a pusher at 4 o'clock.

In 1934, Breitling wristwatch chronographs also began to feature an additional pusher at 4 o'clock, with the pusher at 2 o'clock for start/stop and the pusher at 4 o'clock for zero reset only.

The shape of the chronograph, with two pushers flanking the crown, was established at this stage.

1944: The Premier Collection Adds Complications

Premier (Ref. 777)

1945 Premier Reference 777. The Premier Collection was highly acclaimed as a collection that embodied Breitling's vision of style and elegance.

In 1943, towards the end of World War II, the third owner, Willy Breitling, developed the Premier Collection, responding to the needs of customers seeking elegant timepieces. The Premier Collection was a series that prioritized style over function.

In 1944, Willy Breitling introduced a new series that continued the aesthetics of the Premier collection: the Duograph, which added a split-seconds chronograph, capable of measuring time simultaneously with two hands.

Models that retained the elegance of the Premier collection but enhanced functionality by incorporating even more complex mechanisms were subsequently released one after another.

Duograph

In 1944, Willy Breitling introduced a new series that continued the aesthetics of the Premier collection. The Duograph was a split-seconds chronograph with a complex mechanism that allowed simultaneous time measurement with two hands. Breitling continued to release models with advanced functions while retaining the elegance of the Premier collection, such as square pushers and gold cases.

Willy Breitling

Willy Breitling, who took over the family business in 1932, made full use of the innovative technologies of his grandfather and father, and introduced Breitling's first style-oriented wristwatches: the Premier, Duograph, and Datra, meeting the needs of people seeking practical yet sophisticated personal watches with a keen aesthetic sense, as well as timepieces used as instruments, primarily for the aviation industry.


Recommended Breitling Watches

Breitling watches have a wide lineup, from basic chronographs to divers' watches. The appeal is that you can find a watch that suits your needs and preferences.

Here, we will introduce three Breitling timepieces that we recommend even for first-time Breitling wearers. Please use this as a reference when choosing a Breitling watch.

Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43

Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43

Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43, Ref. AB0138211B1P1
Automatic (Cal. Breitling 01). 47 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 43mm, thickness 13.6mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 1,188,000 yen (tax included).

In 2022, the Navitimer underwent a full model change to commemorate its 70th anniversary. This model also retains the characteristics of the original Navitimer while being improved to meet modern specifications.

Iconic details such as the three chronograph counters, rotating slide rule, and knurled bezel are faithfully reproduced from the original model.

Another distinctive feature of the current Navitimer is the International Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA) logo at the 12 o'clock position, which comes from the fact that the Navitimer was announced as the official AOPA timepiece design in 1954.

Superocean Automatic 46

Superocean Automatic 46

Breitling Superocean Automatic 46, Ref. A17378E71C1A1
Automatic (Cal. Breitling 17). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 38 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 46mm, thickness 13.2mm). Water resistant to 300m. Price: 726,000 yen (tax included).

The Superocean is Breitling's diver's line. It features hands and indexes coated with the luminous paint "Superluminova" for enhanced visibility.

The Superocean Automatic 46 features a large 46mm case diameter and a dynamic navy blue color scheme. The rubber strap, sold separately, comes in two colors: black and blue. You can also swap it for a triple-link bracelet for a sportier look.

Of course, this watch is fully equipped with the features necessary for tough diving, such as screw lock and double gasket for 300m water resistance.

Premier B01 Chronograph 42

Premier B01 Chronograph 42

Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42, Ref. AB0145211G1P2
Automatic (Cal. Breitling 01). 41 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42mm, thickness 13.6mm). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 1,155,000 yen (tax included).

The Premier B01 Chronograph 42, released in 2023, retains the characteristics of the vintage Premier from the 1940s. Details such as the twin-register dial, sleek square pushers, and Arabic numeral indexes exude the elegance sought after by people at the time.

The brown alligator leather strap complements the warm dial, allowing you to change the look of your watch to suit your outfit.

The movement is the in-house developed and manufactured "Cal. Breitling 01," boasting a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Even if you take the watch off over the weekend, you don't have to worry about winding the mainspring.


Romantic Breitling watches

Breitling watches

Since its founding in 1884, Breitling has been loved for its high technical capabilities and attention to design. The development of chronographs in particular is essential to talking about the brand. Breitling also created the pioneering wristwatch chronograph.

When you pick up a timepiece, you will feel a greater attachment to it if you think about the history of the brand. In addition to the watches introduced in this article, Breitling has released many other watches. Be sure to visit their official website or shop to fully experience their charm.



Contact info: Breitling Japan Tel. 0120-105-707
Reference site:Breitling


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