I had the good fortune to review Bvlgari's latest product, the Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold, which was announced at Geneva Watch Days on August 29, 2023. What is the performance of the latest Octo Finissimo, released by Bvlgari, which has been increasing its presence in the thin watch genre?

Text and Photographs by Chieko Tsuruoka (Chronos-Japan)
Article published on June 2023, 11
Hands-on review of Bulgari's new "Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold"
Bvlgari added the Octo Finissimo to its collection in 2014. The Octo Finissimo inherited the design of the Octo, released in 2012, and featured an octagonal motif and a case with numerous facets, but with a thinner case. When it was first released, it was positioned as a higher-end collection than the Octo, but its thinness gave it a strong character and increased its presence in the watch market.

Automatic movement (Cal. BVL305). 30 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Pt case (diameter 40mm, thickness 5.8mm). Water resistant to 30m. Price: 10,626,000 yen (tax included).
A major reason for the company's success in the market is likely its continued record-breaking of the world's thinnest watches, beginning with the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon. The impact of achieving ultra-thinness for a complex mechanism, which typically requires a certain thickness, was particularly significant. However, perhaps even more than that, the "innovativeness" of the product itself contributed to its success. While I'll go into more detail in my review, the exceptional skill with which the company managed to combine a thin watch with a three-dimensional feel and practicality has earned it high praise, especially from watch enthusiasts.
In proportion to its success, Bvlgari has expanded the range of the Octo Finissimo, and the latest model, the Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold, which will be reviewed here, was announced at the Geneva Watch Days on August 29th of this year.

Automatic movement (Cal. BVL138). 36 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Titanium and carbon case (diameter 40mm, thickness 6.9mm). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 13,277,000 yen (tax included).
The exterior design is what really catches the eye. While various Octo Finissimo models have graced the collection, this one is made of carbon fiber (the middle case is titanium), with pink gold accents on the crown and dial. The dial also features a striking carbon fiber pattern, giving it a modern look. In addition to this model, the Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold also features a perpetual calendar model.

Automatic movement (Cal. BVL305). 30 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Titanium and carbon case (diameter 40mm, thickness 7.6mm). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 13,277,000 yen (tax included).
Let's get started by reviewing the Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold.
Impeccable packaging
We have reviewed the Octo Finissimo several times on this site, and each time we have mentioned its exceptional packaging.

One of the reasons for the Octo Finissimo's success as a product is that it achieves a three-dimensional effect through its complex design despite being a thin watch. Many thin watches have flat designs. For this reason, in recent years, manufacturers have been using a technique of combining polished and satin finishes to create a three-dimensional effect in thin watches. The Octo Finissimo, on the other hand, is based on an octagonal motif, with facets on the lugs, case, and bezel, resulting in a very complex shape.
Bvlgari brought a breath of fresh air to the genre with its unprecedented introduction of a thin watch with a three-dimensional shape. This iconic shape remains intact in this model, but the black carbon fiber further modernizes the already avant-garde design. At the same time, it doesn't have the strong sporty feel that is often seen in watches that use carbon fiber. The Octo Finissimo's signature shape, thin exterior (6.9mm thick), and the pink gold, another key element, create a luxurious watch.

The excellence of the Octo Finissimo's packaging can only be fully appreciated when worn. Generally, thin and light watches are comfortable to wear. It's not hard to imagine that the Octo Finissimo would be comfortable to wear, but the bendable lugs make it fit the wrist even better. Before wearing it, I was worried that the large case size, with a diameter of 40mm, would affect the fit, but perhaps due to the short lugs, I hardly noticed it at all.

The superbly thin bracelet was also a surprise when I actually tried it on. Like the case, the bracelet is thin and flexible, with a sharp appearance but no sharp edges, and it feels pleasant to the touch. Another major feature that demonstrates the Octo Finissimo's "magic of thinness" is that the buckle is built into the bracelet. This design allows the buckle to remain as thin as the bracelet, and there were fewer instances of the buckle hitting something and interfering with my wrist, which is common when doing desk work. However, in order to prioritize thinness, the buckle does not have a push button for opening and closing. It is easy to open and close the watch when you pick it up. However, when trying to remove it while wearing it, I found it a little difficult to operate.
A usable slim watch option
Another reason for the Octo Finissimo's success as a thin watch is its practicality. To create an ultra-thin movement, Bulgari enlarged the baseplate and scattered the various components. By placing the rotor and various mechanisms in the space provided, they succeeded in adding various added value to a thin watch. The Caliber BVL138 used in this watch was also launched in 17 as the world's thinnest automatic watch movement. It features a micro-rotor in the space provided, but to improve winding efficiency, platinum, a material with a high specific gravity, is used. This watch also uses the same caliber. Incidentally, the pink gold coloring applied to the platinum gives it a special finish.

While many slim watches are made of precious metals like gold or platinum, the Octo Finissimo is made of titanium, which is a major factor in its practical slimness. Furthermore, this model is water resistant to 100m, making it more practical than you'd expect from its appearance. The screw-down crown is easy to use, and although it's not particularly large, it never felt difficult to remove. Another plus is the smoothness of the hands.
One thing that bothered me about the practicality and functionality was the lack of a second hand stop function. This is something that isn't often found in luxury watches, but I found it a bit inconvenient when setting the time. Also, the indexes are thin and polished, so visibility is reduced under strong light sources. That said, this isn't a watch that you'll be using outdoors a lot. I'd rather just call it a "thing that bothers me" rather than a drawback.
First, you should see the actual product and, if possible, try it on!
We reviewed the latest 23 Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold.
The clever design and excellent fit of the packaging are outstanding. The carbon and gold accents give it a more modern look, creating a unique feel. This can be said for the Octo Finissimo in general, but when you see it in person, you are reminded of the quality of the packaging. Furthermore, wearing it on your wrist makes you realize how comfortable it is to wear, and it makes you want to buy it right away.
Given the price, it's certainly not a model you can easily buy. And at this price, your options will likely be vastly different. However, the thinness of a mechanical watch is undoubtedly a sign of sophisticated watchmaking. The Octo Finissimo achieves this while also offering new added value in the form of complex design and practicality, so its price isn't too high.

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