"We wanted to create the perfect watch to celebrate Chronoswiss's 40th anniversary," says Chronoswiss CEO Oliver Ebstein. "A very famous Chronoswiss creation was the Delphis, the first wristwatch with a jumping hour display in an aperture at 12 o'clock and retrograde minutes. Two years ago, we decided it was time to reinvent the watch."
Interview and text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2023 issue of Kronos Japan]
To celebrate its 40th anniversary, we refurbished the Delphis.
Born in Switzerland in 1975, he studied at the IE University in Lausanne and Madrid, where he earned an MBA. He began his career in finance, then worked in management roles in the food supplement and pharmaceutical industries. He later became an independent management consultant, focusing on restructuring small and medium-sized enterprises, and became CEO of Chronoswiss when his family took over the company. As the interview reveals, he is a big watch enthusiast.
Ebshteyn says he likes to extract the brand's DNA from the past and mix it with the future. "The challenge was how to redesign Delphis while still reflecting the past. I also felt that we needed to add more craftsmanship to the foundation."
The old Delphis had a guilloche-style dial finished with a stamp. In contrast, the new Delphis uses a true guilloche dial with layered enamel. Moreover, the dial is domed. If enamel were applied normally, it would flow when heated. "When I saw the famous Fabergé Egg, I thought I could do the same thing. So after much trial and error, I perfected this dial. However, the prototype was only completed shortly before the trade fair."
What's interesting is the enamel finish: despite the enamel being layered over the guilloche, there are barely any air bubbles to be seen.
"It's not that there are no bubbles, because no piece of work is 100% perfect. But we want it to be 99.99% perfect. We apply enamel and bake it, and if bubbles form, we peel it off, apply more enamel and bake it again."
But why is Chronoswiss so committed to craftsmanship, not just in this watch?
"Our customers are always looking for something different, something more luxurious, something more exclusive, and they want a story to tell with their products," and the enamel and guilloché details on the new Delphis seem to be a good example of this.
"The technique of enamel has a history of 5000 years. Guilloché has been around for over 400 years. To own a watch that incorporates these techniques means that you are owning something that is part of history. I think that will be valuable for the future and for many people."
Chronoswiss has been experimenting between modern and classic styles, but with the new Delphis, it seems they've finally found the answer.
"The Delphis is good, but don't you think the Regulator is a good watch?"
Things are sure to get much more interesting from Chronoswiss in the future.
This limited edition model features a highly three-dimensional, three-layered dial with a jumping hour display. It also features a new base movement, developed in collaboration with La Joux-Perret. It's such a fine piece that it's a shame it's limited to just 50 pieces worldwide. I hope it becomes a regular model. Automatic (Cal. C. 6004). 37 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 55 hours. 18KRG case (42mm diameter, 14.5mm thick). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 6,820,000 yen (tax included).
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