H. Moser & Cie.: A minimalist aesthetic that achieves timelessness

The mystique of black, brought about by the absorption of light, has become a symbol of elegance, and its universality is proven even in formal settings. H. Moser & Cie.'s popular Endeavour collection, which uses Vantablack®, considered the blackest of all blacks, is now available in red gold. When engraved in red gold, which embodies the limitless black and eternal beauty, it conveys a refined aesthetic of minimalism. This speaks of its appeal more eloquently than anything else.

Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack® and Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack® in red gold

　Colors that cannot be created by mixing other colors are called primary colors. Mixing the three primary colors of light - R (red), G (green), and B (blue) - results in white, while black appears when all three primary colors are absorbed by a substance. Vantablack® is a coating created based on this principle.

　It is said to be the blackest man-made material, made of carbon nanotubes that absorb 99.965% of light. Originally developed for astrophysics, it is also used in military applications such as stealth fighter jets.

　H. Moser & Cie. first adopted this on a watch dial in 2018. CEO Edouard Meylan explains the background to this:

"As a small brand, fumé dials are an important signature for differentiating ourselves from others. However, we have not been able to express the world of black well. Black is a special color for luxury, and like a black jacket, it is timeless and not influenced by trends. So we decided to thoroughly pursue a black that other brands could not create, and we arrived at Vantablack®."

　However, the hurdles to commercialization were high, and it took much trial and error to develop the specialized tools and manufacturing process before it was finally completed.

"I was able to achieve something that others said was impossible, and it was well received. This gave me a lot of confidence when considering the direction of the brand."

　Vantablack® has now become a symbol of innovation, originality and luxury for H. Moser & Cie. The new models combine it with red gold. One of them is the Endeavour with a tourbillon. Following previous models in white gold and black DLC stainless steel, the contrast between the warm red gold hue and the boundless Vantablack® makes it seem as if the flying tourbillon is emerging from a black hole. In keeping with the collection's "less is more" concept, everything is in a pared-down world.

　The other model features a center second hand and simple bar indexes. The deep black and lustrous red gold accents make it a truly timeless modern dress watch.

　In stark contrast to the extremely simple Vantablack® face, the case back showcases the Manufacture's unique technical expertise. The tourbillon uses a double hairspring designed and manufactured in-house, while the three hands use a Straumann® hairspring. This makes full use of the strengths of Precision Engineering, an affiliated company that manufactures parts such as regulators and balance springs.

　In addition to its in-house integrated manufacturing, the company is expanding its movement development efforts through a capital investment in Agenor, the movement development workshop of its parent company, Melbrucke, announced in spring 23. The two companies have already begun collaborating on the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic, released in 20, and the pace of originality is expected to accelerate even further in the future.

　The black, a symbol of elegance, and the graceful red gold exude a refined elegance. It could be said to be an aesthetic of minimalism. However, hidden within it are Vantablack®, the product of technological innovation, and the ever-evolving technical capabilities of the Manufacture, which is precisely why it transcends time. This is why H. Moser & Cie. is timeless.

The compact Streamliner Small Second Blue Enamel

　H. Moser & Cie.'s Streamliner, known for its ergonomic, streamlined design, now features a new, compact design. This new model incorporates H. Moser's signature touches, such as an aqua blue Grand Feu enamel dial, a new interpretation of the company's signature fumé, and a newly developed micro-rotor automatic movement, bringing the Streamliner to its perfection as a daily watch.

　Three years after its launch, H. Moser & Cie.'s Streamliner has firmly established itself as the face of the brand. When the company developed the case with an integrated bracelet, it was inspired by the high-speed trains that flourished in the first half of the 20th century. The streamlined form that reduced air resistance was adapted for use in a wristwatch, resulting in an ergonomic design that fits comfortably on the wrist.

　The Streamliner line, which began with chronographs, has steadily expanded its lineup to include a simple three-hand model with a center second hand and a model equipped with a tourbillon. The latest addition is a three-hand model with a small second hand.

　The first thing worth noting is the slimmer case shape. With a diameter of 39mm and a thickness of 10.9mm, it is approximately 1mm thinner than the center second model. This allows for a cleaner, more streamlined line from the case to the bracelet.

　The most eye-catching feature is the brilliant gradient blue Grand Feu enamel dial. This color, which the company calls "aqua blue," is achieved by applying multiple layers of enamel and firing them, a process that requires skilled craftsmanship and delicacy.

　First, the gold plate that will form the base of the dial is struck with a tool to create a hammered finish, which gives it a dented pattern. Afterwards, the three types of pigments that are the key to the gradation are used and the firing process is repeated a total of 12 times. The firing is done at approximately 800°C, but there is no set rule as to how long the firing should last, as it varies depending on various conditions such as the temperature and humidity at the time. It is this fine adjustment that tests the experience and skill of the craftsman. Any air bubbles that occur after each firing are eliminated. Repeating this process without fail is the secret to creating a high-quality dial with a striking gradation and hammered finish.

　The dial is accentuated by a separate small seconds subdial, which features a concentric pattern and is finished in blue lacquer.

　It's also worth noting that this watch has been designed with practicality in mind. While it lacks minute markers, it features 12 applied indexes, thick hour and minute hands, and a small seconds subdial with five-minute markings, making it perfect for everyday use. The hour and minute hands in particular are filled with Globolight®, a mixture of Super-LumiNova and ceramic, making them easy to read even in the dark.

　The slimmer, smaller case also contributes to the watch's improved practicality. The newly developed Caliber HMC 500 is essential to achieving this slim design. This movement was developed in cooperation with Precision Engineering, a group company that produces movement parts, and is the smallest movement developed by H. Moser & Cie. in the 21st century.

　The automatic winding rotor uses a micro-rotor, which reduces thickness. Made of platinum, which has a high specific gravity, and equipped with a ratchet-type automatic winding mechanism, it improves winding efficiency. The power reserve of approximately three days and the efficiency of the miniaturized escapement are comparable to conventional models.

　This new model, which shows the maturation of three years, boasts a level of perfection that makes it worthy of being called the definitive Streamliner.