Testing the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph SLGC001. The Tentagraph is better than expected.

2023.12.06

For this test, I really wanted to borrow Grand Seiko's Tentagraph. This watch, which combines the ambitious Caliber 9SA5 with a chronograph, is definitely one of the watches I should test. However, I do have some concerns. I've heard that when Caliber 9SA5 was introduced, they had trouble stabilizing accuracy. Given that, can we really expect excellent accuracy from the Tentagraph, which also combines a chronograph?

Grand Seiko "Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph SLGC001"

Grand Seiko "Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph SLGC001"
This 2023 model is a must-have, featuring a module based on the masterpiece Caliber 9SA5, making it a chronograph. In impressions, it recorded astonishing accuracy of 0 seconds per day over several days. Automatic (Caliber 9SC5). 60 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Bright titanium (diameter 43.2mm, thickness 15.3mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Priced at 1,815,000 yen.
Photographs by Masanori Yoshie
Masamasa Hirota: Interview and text
Text by Masayuki Hirota(Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2023 issue of Kronos Japan]


With astonishing precision and excellent packaging, the Tentagraph is an even better performer than you would expect.

 To make the most of the masterpiece caliber 9SA5, the caliber 9SC5 deliberately placed a chronograph module on the dial side. This was installed in Grand Seiko's first mechanical chronograph, the Tentagraph. Watch lovers will be interested in the precision provided by features such as the dual impulse escapement and Grand Seiko free sprung movement.

 To conclude, the accuracy of the Tentagraph exceeded expectations in both dynamic and static accuracy. After wearing it for four consecutive days, the daily rate was 0 seconds, and even when the chronograph was running, it was only +5 seconds. Compared to the static accuracy, the dynamic accuracy was clearly better, but it is unclear whether this is due to individual differences or the characteristics of the caliber 9SC5. Regardless, the Tentagraph's astonishing high accuracy supports the planning team's statement that "we wanted to make the most of the 9SA5's characteristics."

The Cal.9SC5 is a masterpiece with a chronograph module placed on the dial side of the Cal.9SA5. The large ruby ​​and wide, shallow graining create an impression that is different from previous Japanese movements. The movement's performance is impeccable. The rotor is engraved with the words "TENTAGRAPH" and the lion logo.

 The Caliber 9SC5 also had excellent winding. I tested it by gently shaking the watch while it was stopped and turning the crown only five times, and it wound up well even under conditions of deskwork. I'm somewhat skeptical of automatic watches with reversers, but Rolex, Kenissi, some Chopard watches, and the 9S series are quite reliable. However, perhaps because the case is titanium, the rotor noise was louder than that of a watch with a birch steel case. It's not harsh, but a more subdued sound would add to the luxury feel.

 So-called modular chronographs tend to have a problem with "set-up," where the minute hand doesn't move for a while after the second hand starts moving. Some Dubois-Dépraz modular chronographs have a set-up of one to two minutes or more. The set-up of the 9SC5, which has a similar configuration, is about 30 seconds by eye. While larger than an integrated chronograph, it is still within the acceptable range. One rotation of the crown moves the minute hand by about 25 minutes. The fact that the amount of movement is smaller than that of a standard ébauche is unique to high-end watches, which require precise hand alignment.

 What was surprising was the feel of the crown. The precise hand-winding feel, which is palpable with the presence of a keyhole, is far superior to that of a mediocre hand-winding movement. The crown also had no loss of torque when turned in either direction, and of course there was no roughness whatsoever. It feels lighter than a Swiss watch, but perhaps this is one of its unique features. On the other hand, the push buttons have an initial pause before starting immediately when pressed, a touch typical of Seiko. The feel is heavy, but it makes sense when you consider the exceptional strength of the chronograph module.

The reason why the 15.3mm case thickness is barely noticeable is due to the treatment of the bezel and crystal. By keeping the bezel low and the crystal raised, the thickness of the middle case was reduced. Also, by making the bezel and crystal protrude, the case is less likely to be hit. The bezel is made of ceramic.

 The Tentagraph is by no means a thin watch. However, the fit was pleasantly unexpected. Its construction is clearly head-heavy compared to the birch, but thanks to the light titanium material and wide bracelet, I got used to it after wearing it for three hours. The bracelet width of the Evolution 9 Collection, which includes the Tentagraph, is just over 50% of the case size. This allows the weight to be distributed well. Also, since it is not extremely tapered, the buckle has good hold. Compared to Swiss-made watches, the bracelet has a slightly larger amount of play.

 However, considering that many stiff bracelets lose their feel over time, this refinement is the result of experience. Also, naturally, the bracelet doesn't pinch hair. Since I, who prefers thin watches, was able to wear the Tentagraph continuously, I can say that it feels good to wear. That said, the simple buckle wasn't my preference. A simpler buckle is better for long-term use, but the structure and finish don't justify the price, which is in the high 100 million yen range. Considering that many competitors use elaborate buckles, a buckle with a fine-tuning mechanism should be used, even if it adds cost and weight.

Despite the large 43.2mm case, the watch is comfortable to wear thanks in part to the short lugs. The rounded corners also make the watch feel comfortable against the skin. While Grand Seiko is often known for its Zaratsu polishing, the attention to detail required to ensure a comfortable fit is something only a major manufacturer can offer.

 What is typical of Grand Seiko is that, even though it is a chronograph, it prioritized legibility as a watch. Depending on the position of the hands, the subdials can be difficult to see, but the decision to prioritize the hour and minute hands is a sign of the brand's insight. Also, unusually for a Japanese-made watch, the width of the faceplate is extremely narrow. The hands are positioned high, which not only looks good but also provides excellent legibility. The tentagraph is one of the reasons why it gives the impression of being an unusual Japanese-made watch.

 The dial is lacquered with an intricate radial pattern known as the Iwate pattern. As is typical of Grand Seiko, the color changes depending on the intensity and angle of the light, but the effect, including the way the base is displayed, is kept to a level that does not impede visibility. The lacquer on the dial is thick, but there are no sharpening marks and the surface is smooth. In recent years, Swiss manufacturers have also begun to focus on dials and hands, but Grand Seiko remains head and shoulders above the rest.

This model stands out for its outstanding precision thanks to its dual impulse escapement and its high-quality exterior. It's a chronograph, but I like how it prioritizes legibility of the hour and minute hands. While it's not a thin or small watch, the wide bracelet and lightweight titanium material make it generally comfortable to wear. Those who wear heavier watches will likely find it tolerable. Surprisingly, it's an excellent watch with few weaknesses. However, the buckle needs improvement in both its finish and mechanism.

 When choosing a watch, there are two methods: elimination and addition. For an avid watch lover, if there is one particular watch that they are "recommended," that alone is enough reason to buy it. However, what is important for the average person is that the watch must remain even after the process of elimination. In this respect, the new Tentagraph, while boasting the high-precision 9SC5 movement and high-quality hands and dial, is notable for its lack of flaws. There are issues with the rotor noise and the buckle, but the overall package is unexpectedly excellent. As proof of this, even I, who prefer only thin and simple watches, found it difficult to return the watch. (Masamasa Hirota, this magazine)


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