The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is a representative example of a dress watch with a bracelet.

After luxury sports watches became a huge trend and became a standard, dress watches are gaining attention as a new trend. This classic genre, which was once somewhat difficult to use, has now dramatically evolved to become more practical. We revisited this new era of dress watches in the January 2024 issue (Vol. 110) of Chronos Japan. This feature article is republished on webChronos. In this article, we explore this genre using the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor as a case study.

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Case study: Parmigiani Fleurier

　The classic dress watch is a thin case with a leather strap. However, the classic metal bracelet model is making a comeback. Dress watches with bracelets feature details that set them apart from luxury sports watches. The signature model of 2023 is undoubtedly Parmigiani Fleurier's Tonda PF Micro-Rotor.

Parmigiani Fleurier "Tonda PF Micro-Rotor"

　The so-called "luxury sports watch" genre has become mainstream since 2015. One factor behind this revival, which had once fallen into decline, is the widespread casualization of fashion since the 10s. There have also been changes among watch manufacturers. Thanks to robust, highly accurate automatic movements and advances in exterior finishes, even thin mechanical watches can now offer performance on a par with sports watches. As a result, the majority of mechanical watches shipped from Switzerland now feature a metal case and bracelet with an automatic movement. Of course, not all of these are luxury sports watches, but it's undeniable that this style has become the industry standard.

　Parmigiani Fleurier also belatedly entered the luxury sports watch genre with the 19 Tonda GT. Although the company was a latecomer, it was a highly refined model that wrapped its excellent in-house automatic movement in an organically integrated case and bracelet. The 21 Tonda PF was born based on this Tonda GT. While similar in appearance and structure to the Tonda GT, this model was redesigned as a dress watch. CEO Guido Terreni explained the difference between the Tonda GT and the Tonda GT: "With the Tonda GT, our aim was to create something that had never been done before: a case integrated with a bracelet that would meet the needs of modern customers. However, I felt that the Tonda GT was a little too sporty. I wanted to further refine the design."

　It's difficult to draw a clear line between a high-quality luxury sports watch and a dress watch with a bracelet. Take the Royal Oak, for example. While the three-hand model is clearly sporty, the slim, two-hand Extra-Thin model leans more toward a dress watch. The differences between the two are the details and the case, and the same is true for the Tonda PF. These details are quite fascinating. Prioritizing design over legibility, the Tonda PF's indices were redesigned to be more compact, and the flagship Tonda PF Micro-Rotor model even omitted the seconds hand. The manufacturer's logo was reduced to just "PF," and the dial guilloched pattern was changed from a large triangular pattern to a more subtle barleycorn pattern. Finally, the platinum model of the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor featured here finally features a plain matte dial. What was novel about the Tonda PF was the direct application of the concept seen in thin dress watches with leather straps to bracelet models.

　Another key element, thinness, was also thoroughly refined. Parmigiani Fleurier, which has a case manufacturer within its group, already has exceptional know-how in case manufacturing. The Tonda PF has the same water resistance as the Tonda GT, 100m. However, the case thickness of the most basic model with a micro-rotor has been reduced to just 7.8mm, a challenge only possible in this day and age, given the advances in exterior processing technology. The crown has also been made smaller. Considering practicality and airtightness, a larger crown is preferable. This is why the Tonda GT, which emphasizes a sporty look, has a larger crown. In contrast, what stands out about this model is the small crown, reminiscent of a non-waterproof dress watch. Terreni has always stuck to the codes of a dress watch.

　To elevate simplicity and minimalism to a high-quality look, excellent craftsmanship is an absolute requirement. And Tonda had the ability to fully meet that requirement. One example is the lugs. The Tonda iconic protruding lugs are attached to a middle case with a satin-finished side. By separating the lugs from the case, the satin finish is fully applied, and the edges of the lugs are also mirror-polished. By attaching the lugs to a thin case, it is possible to carefully apply the satin finish all the way to the base of the lugs.

　The bracelet is also of high quality. Each link has a slight curvature to improve comfort. In addition, the three-link bracelet is intentionally designed with some play in both directions. This distinctly different feel from many modern sports watches emphasizes its character as a dress watch. Combined with the watch's lightweight construction, the Tonda PF wears quite well.

　However, when you look at the micro-rotor automatic winding mechanism, you can see that this watch is a modern dress watch. The hand-beveled edges and very light Geneva finish are details of high-end watches, but the free-sprung balance makes it resistant to shocks and highly isochronous. Although Parmigiani Fleurier doesn't explicitly state this, this thin dress watch also has the performance to be used as a sports watch.

　The Tonda PF, which grafts the minimalist elements seen in dress watches of yesteryear onto a modern bracelet watch, is a worthy successor to the classic dress watch. The success of the Tonda PF, which prioritized dressiness over legibility and practicality, is sure to have a major impact on dress watches of the future.