The editor-in-chief of Chronos Japan/webChronos has arbitrarily selected the watch that best represents 2023. The watch chosen is the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Ultra Complications Universelle RD#4, which is packed with complex mechanisms yet remains a usable size.
Text by Masayuki Hirota(Chronos-Japan)
[Article published on January 14, 2023]

Complex yet practical! Audemars Piguet's Universelle
If I had to pick one watch that represents 2023, it would undoubtedly be the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Ultra Complications Universelle RD#4. I never expected Audemars Piguet to create a watch like this. There are more complicated complications than this, but this one is unparalleled in its usable size and ease of use.
Until World War II, Audemars Piguet basically only produced complications. The most complex model they produced was the "Universelle," manufactured in 1899. Made up of 1168 parts, including 316 screws, this was the most complicated pocket watch at the time.

Automatic winding (Cal. 1000). 90 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 64 hours. 18K White Gold case (diameter 42mm, thickness 15.55mm). Water resistant to 2 bar. Price upon request.
The 2023 Universelle is a modern reimagining of this model. True to Audemars Piguet's claim that it's an ultra-complication, it's packed with over 1100 parts and 40 mechanisms, including 23 complications. It features a supersonnerie, perpetual calendar, split-seconds flyback chronograph, and flying tourbillon, as well as a three-dimensional moon display.
However, what is noteworthy about this watch is its ease of use rather than its complexity. Although it weighs 180g, it has a diameter of 42.4mm and a thickness of 15.5mm, which is comparable to a regular complication. Complications inevitably make operation complicated and increase in size. However, Audemars Piguet set the goal of keeping a complicated mechanism within a usable package, and completed this watch.

Creating a usable ultra-complication watch is a watchmaker's dream. However, it is impossible to create one without the comprehensive strength of the manufacturer. Patek Philippe's design team, led by Philippe Barat, excels in designing and manufacturing such "usable complications." In fact, one person involved in the development of the Universelle told me, "I thought this type of complicated watch was something Patek Philippe made." However, Audemars Piguet spent seven years developing a usable ultra-complication.
A historic masterpiece realized through "insane component placement"
As far as I know, Audemars Piguet only began to aim to become a manufacture in the 2000s. Even before that, the company had a complicated watchmaking workshop called Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi (now Audemars Piguet Le Locle), which produced minute repeaters and tourbillons. However, it has only been in the last 20 years that the company has become a manufacture producing basic movements.

To be honest, the first automatic movement that Audemars Piguet completed as its core movement, the Caliber 3120 series, was merely a replacement for the Jaeger-LeCoultre ébauche that the company was using, but the company steadily improved its design capabilities, resulting in the new basic caliber 43 series and the chronograph caliber 44 series.
Using their accumulated know-how, the company has also begun to innovate on complications. Audemars Piguet's current specialty is complication movements designed to fit perfectly with the exterior. For example, the "CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Flying Tourbillon Chronograph" features a column wheel housed under the carriage to give this model a symmetrical design.
The company's original goal was to create a sophisticated and complicated watch. However, by putting a lot of thought into the layout of components, Audemars Piguet has become adept at using them. It's no wonder that the Universelle, packed with 40 mechanisms, is able to fit into a usable size.

Unfortunately, I haven't had the chance to fully experience this model, nor have I heard its boastworthy sound. However, I'm convinced that this model will go down in history, simply because it packs 40 functions into a watch of this size. I'm sure that various manufacturers will continue to develop unprecedented ultra-complications. However, in terms of usability, it seems unlikely that anything will ever surpass this model. I never expected to see such a great watch in 2023.

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