What types of Rolex bezels are there? Explaining fluted and smooth bezels along with popular models

Rolex is a luxury watch brand that places great importance on the quality of its bezels. There are a variety of bezels with unique features, and each model uses a type that matches its concept. We will introduce the types of Rolex bezels and models equipped with standard bezels.

The main types of Rolex bezels

In addition to its primary role of fixing the crystal in place, the bezel also serves as a design accent. Let's take a look at the main types of Rolex bezels and their respective key features.

フルーテッドベゼル

The fluted bezel, characterized by its continuous mountain-shaped cuts, is a symbol of Rolex. When it first appeared in 1926, it was adopted as a part of the Rolex Oyster.

The unique design of the fluted bezel was conceived to improve the water resistance of the watch by screwing it tightly onto the case. However, in order to preserve the unique lustrous charm that is its main feature, the unique shape has been retained even now that it is no longer screwed down.

Fluted bezels are only available in 18K gold and 950 platinum, and are often found on Rolex's classic lines, such as the Day-Date and Sky-Dweller.

Smooth Bezel

A smooth bezel is a bezel with no decoration and a mirror-finished surface. It is also called a polished bezel.

This is the standard Rolex bezel and is used on a variety of models. It features a design that makes full use of the texture of the material.

Models with smooth bezels can be worn regardless of style or occasion, as the bezel itself is less prominent and gives a clean impression.

Tachymeter bezel

A tachymeter is a mechanism for measuring speed. Tachymeter bezels are a standard part of chronographs, and the seconds hand and tachymeter allow you to know your approximate speed per hour.

Since the only Rolex model that features a chronograph is the Cosmograph Daytona, the tachymeter bezel is also only available on the Cosmograph Daytona.

The tachymeter bezel scale, combined with the chronograph subdial, enhances the instrumental look, giving the entire watch a mechanical impression.

回転ベゼル

Rotating bezels can be broadly divided into two types: unidirectional rotating bezels and bidirectional rotating bezels.

Unidirectional rotating bezels are primarily found on diver's watches. If the bezel's scale were to rotate clockwise underwater, it would be impossible to accurately gauge the remaining fuel in the tank, which could be life-threatening for the diver. For this reason, the bezel on a diver's watch is designed to only rotate in one direction: counterclockwise.

On the other hand, there are also bidirectional rotating bezels, which are used not only to measure elapsed time but also to keep track of the time in other countries. In the case of Rolex, unidirectional rotating bezels are found on the Submariner, Sea-Dweller, and Deepsea, while bidirectional rotating bezels are found on the Yacht-Master and GMT-Master II.

Engine-Turned Bezel

The predecessor to the fluted bezel is the engine-turned bezel, named after its design, which is inspired by the rotation of an aircraft engine.

The bezel has alternating cut and non-cut sections, resulting in less unevenness compared to a fluted bezel with a series of mountain-shaped cuts.

Like the fluted bezel, the engine-turned bezel is unique to Rolex, but it is not used on current models and can only be found on older models manufactured before 2010.

Bark finish bezel

The bark-finish bezel is a bezel that was used on gold models. Bark comes from the word bark, and as the name suggests, it is engraved with a pattern resembling bark.

Some models with bark-finished bezels also had bark-finished bracelet links.

The fine, deep grain of the bark finish gives the watch a retro and calming look. Bark-finished bezels were only used on the Day-Date and Datejust models released in the early 1990s, and are not seen on current models.

Current Rolex models with classic bezels

When it comes to classic Rolex bezels, the first two that come to mind are the fluted bezel and the polished bezel. Of course, as we've mentioned so far, there are many different types even when we only look at current models. We'll introduce some recommended models with each bezel.

"Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41" Ref. 126334

The Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 is a model equipped with a fluted bezel. The fluted bezel in this collection is crafted from 18K gold.

Rolex calls the combination of two metals Rolesor, and the ref. 126334, which combines Oystersteel and white gold, is white Rolesor.

The triple-link Oyster bracelet features Rolex's proprietary Oysterclasp and Easylink, which allow the bracelet length to be extended by approximately 5mm.

"Oyster Perpetual 41" Ref. 124300

Our recommendation for a model with a polished bezel is the Oyster Perpetual 41. The case and bezel are made of Oystersteel, which is highly durable and easy to polish.

The sunray-finished dial reflects light in a subtle way, creating a distinctive sparkle as the wrist moves.

The case of the Oyster Perpetual model is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters, another testament to the high level of craftsmanship used in the manufacture of Rolex watches.

"Perpetual 1908"

Following the discontinuation of production of the Cellini, the Perpetual 1908 collection was launched in 2023 as the new leader in Rolex's dress line. The name 1908 refers to the year that founder Hans Wilsdorf came up with the name "Rolex" and registered it as a trademark in Switzerland. The dial layout, with Arabic numerals at 12, 3, and 9 o'clock and a small seconds hand at 6 o'clock, is inspired by the original Oyster Perpetual, released in 1931.

The notable bezel is a combination of domed and fluted elements. Its 18K yellow gold case exudes a classic atmosphere. While most Rolex models feature solid case backs, the 1908 features a see-through case back, allowing the Rolex in-house movement, Cal. 7140, to be viewed through the sapphire crystal.

"Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller"

The Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller is a Rolex complication model with GMT and annual calendar (Saros annual calendar) functions. A rotating 24-hour disc located in the center of the dial indicates home time, allowing you to know two times simultaneously. A small window on the outer edge of the bar index indicates the month. As it is an annual calendar, the date only needs to be adjusted once a year, on March 1st.

At first glance, the bezel on this watch appears to be a standard fluted bezel. However, it is actually linked to the movement and features a "Ring Command System" that allows the crown to switch its functions by rotating the bezel. Depending on the position of the bezel, the crown can switch between different roles: setting the home time, setting the local time (moving the hour hand independently), and adjusting the date. This unique bezel allows the Sky-Dweller to incorporate multiple functions without affecting the design.

"Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II"

In 1955, at the request of Pan American World Airways, Rolex developed the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master for international flight crew. This watch featured a 24-hour hand and a rotating bezel with a 24-hour display, two colors used to indicate day and night, allowing the time in two different cities to be displayed. With the advent of the jet era of mass transportation, this GMT function became popular not only among international flight crew but also among businessmen who frequently traveled abroad. In 1982, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II was released, which allowed the hour hand to be adjusted independently, making it possible to read a third time zone.

The GMT-Master II's signature bidirectional rotating bezel features a scratch-resistant Cerachrom insert. It's also worth noting that the current model is available in a variety of color combinations. The model pictured here features a gray/black bezel, offering a subdued color palette that blends seamlessly with a suit.

"Oyster Perpetual Day Date 36"

As its name suggests, the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date is a model with a date and day of the week display function, and is part of a luxurious collection whose case and bracelet are made exclusively of 18K gold or platinum. The President bracelet, a three-row link with semicircular links, was designed specifically for the Day-Date, and gives this watch a special elegance.

This model features an orange gradient dial, a diamond-set bezel, and a 36mm 18K yellow gold case that enhances its brilliance. This is a watch that allows you to enjoy the overwhelming splendor of Rolex's advanced case processing technology and gem-setting craftsmanship.

It's also fun to choose a Rolex based on its bezel

Rolex is also committed to the quality of its bezels, and offers a variety of bezels, including fluted and polished bezels.

It would be interesting to learn about the features and appeal of each bezel and compare Rolex models by bezel to make your selection.