The 8 recommended hand-wound watches that the editorial team at Chronos Japan, a watch magazine, wants!

The majority of the current lineup of mechanical watches is automatic. However, there are many "eccentrics" among watch enthusiasts who choose hand-wound watches. So, in this article, Masamasa Hirota, Editor-in-Chief of the watch magazine Chronos Japan, Deputy Editor-in-Chief Yukiya Suzuki, Editor Taketo Hosoda, and newcomer Chieko Tsuruoka each recommend two hand-wound watches to webChronos readers.

Recommended hand-wound watches by the Chronos Japan editorial team

　Automatic watches are convenient because they keep time by winding the mainspring with a rotor (rotating weight) when worn for a certain period of time. Currently, most mechanical watches on the market are automatic. However, if you want to buy a hand-wound watch, your options are limited due to the limited number of brands. Despite this, there are surprisingly many "unconventional" watch enthusiasts who choose hand-wound watches. Because hand-wound watches do not have the rotor of automatic watches, they are designed to be slimmer, making them more likely to feature the classic designs beloved by watch enthusiasts. Furthermore, if the watch has a see-through back, the rotor does not obstruct the view of the movement. Another reason is that the act of "winding" the mainspring with the crown is also a source of pleasure for watch enthusiasts.

　Because of this high level of hobbyism, there is certainly a market for hand-wound watches, albeit a niche one. And just like with automatic models, the brands that continue to manufacture hand-wound watches continue to improve their products, evolving them to include modern performance and functions. This time, each member of the Chronos Japan editorial team has selected two recommended hand-wound watches from the current models.

Editor-in-Chief Masamasa Hirota's Recommended Hand-Wound Watches

Recommendation 1: Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer

　When it comes to hand-wound models, feel is important, so I chose this model. The winding is a given, but the clicky feel of setting the hands is quite unique. The 44mm diameter case was large, but the current model has been downsized and fits comfortably on the wrist. Considering the features, the price is quite reasonable. This is a hand-wound model that is truly made in Germany.

Recommendation 2: Orient Star "M34 F8 Skeleton Hand-Winding"

　The rule that a skeleton watch must be hand-wound remains unchanged to this day. This model is an attempt to modernize a classic technique. The fairly deep chamfering of the movement matches the dark color finish. Orient, which specializes in skeleton watches, seems to have taken a step forward with this model. The reasonable size and price are also attractive.

Hand-wound watches recommended by Deputy Editor-in-Chief Yukiya Suzuki

Recommendation 1: Patek Philippe "Calatrava" Ref. 6119G

　The good thing about hand-wound watches is that because they do not have an automatic winding mechanism that includes a rotor, the case can be made thinner. For a thin watch, you want a thickness of less than 10mm. Furthermore, watches are becoming smaller these days, both for formal and informal occasions. Considering the wearing comfort, you want a watch that is not only thin, but also under 40mm in diameter. Therefore, I recommend the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119 in white gold, with a case diameter of 39mm and a thickness of 8.08mm.

　Of course, as a "Calatrava," it's a classic dress watch, but the 6119, released in 2021, is equipped with the more modern manual-winding movement, Cal. 30-255 PS. One of the joys of a manual-winding movement is the ritual of winding the mainspring. However, while this ritual, which allows you to experience the realism of a mechanical watch, is enjoyable, a watch with a short power reserve that requires winding the mainspring every day or every two days can be considered impractical in today's busy society. In this regard, the Cal. 30-255 PS has an improved power reserve of at least 65 hours of continuous running time, meaning it only needs to be wound once every three days.

　Moreover, the Cal.30-255 PS has a movement diameter of 31mm, which is 9.1mm larger than the 21.9mm diameter of the Cal.215 PS, a manual-wound movement used in the previous generation model. As a result, it is possible to install two barrels, which not only extends the power reserve but also moves the small seconds hand closer to the periphery of the dial, as opposed to the Cal.215 PS, which was closer to the center. The diameter of the small seconds hand is also larger, resulting in better balance and improved readability.

　The Clous de Paris (hobnail pattern) decoration engraved on the bezel is one of the iconic symbols that makes it instantly recognizable as a Calatrava, and has been passed down since the Ref. 3919, released in 1985.

　Furthermore, the transparent case back allows you to see the beauty of the detailed finishing of each part in accordance with the unique Patek Philippe Seal, such as the Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes) decoration and careful chamfering on the five-section bridge, without being obstructed by the rotor, which is another irreplaceable pleasure of a hand-wound watch.

Recommendation 2: Omega De Ville Tresor Power Reserve

　For a more everyday, hand-wound watch, we recommend the Omega De Ville Trésor Power Reserve. This model has a power reserve of approximately 72 hours, or three full days, so you only need to wind the mainspring every three days. The power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock lets you check the remaining power at all times, making it easy to avoid the mainspring unwinding completely and causing the watch to stop.

　The case is 10.07mm thick, which is thin even for a dress watch, but at 40mm in diameter it's not too large. Furthermore, the lugs are short, so it fits comfortably on the slender wrists of Japanese people. In fact, the total length of the case, including the lugs, is kept to 44.8mm, which, combined with the thinness of the case, makes it easy to handle and comfortable to wear.

　The choice of a small seconds hand rather than a center seconds hand undoubtedly contributes to the thinness of the case by reducing the overlap between the central hand and gears, but the small seconds hand also gives the watch a classic design that is even more suitable for a manual-wound watch. Another beautiful feature of this model is the placement of the power reserve indicator as a subdial at 12 o'clock, balancing the design with the small seconds hand at 6 o'clock. The symmetrical design, not only horizontally (3 o'clock to 9 o'clock) but also vertically (12 o'clock to 6 o'clock), is not only visually pleasing, but also clearly shows the seconds and power reserve indicators on their respective subdials, and their symmetrical arrangement on the dial allows for instantaneous reading of each piece of information without confusion at a glance.

　In addition, the use of a raised dome-shaped crystal reduces the thickness of the middle case, but the placement of rectangular, raised bar indexes does not sacrifice the three-dimensional effect of the dial. When viewed from an angle, this, along with the two sunken subdials, gives the entire dial high visibility and a deep shadow that belies the thinness of the case.

　Manual-wound watches often evoke a classical impression, but while this watch cherishes those classic elements, it also incorporates modern techniques such as shortening the lugs and adopting a domed sapphire crystal crystal, giving it a modern feel that is in line with the recent trend of multi-purpose watches (watches that can be used for both formal and informal occasions).The outstanding balance of this overall design packaging is the biggest reason why we recommend this model.

Yuto Hosoda's recommended hand-wound watches

Recommendation 1: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer

　Levers and gears are crammed into a small space. The beauty of a hand-wound watch is that it can fully convey the excitement that only a horizontal clutch chronograph movement can provide. However, the horizontal clutch + hand-wound chronograph is now an endangered species. Not only are there few varieties, most of them are expensive, and in recent years they have also become difficult to obtain...

　Among them, Omega's Cal. 3861, which has its roots in the Lemania CHRO27, is a watch I would recommend, not only for its specs but also for its easy availability, as it is available in most boutiques. Although the price has risen significantly to just over 120 million yen, it remains reasonably priced, and you can enjoy the traditional hand-wound chronograph look relatively easily.

Recommendation 2: Tutima Glashütte "Patria"

　Due to the limited demand, there is no increase in newly developed hand-wound movements with basic designs and configurations. Patek Philippe's Caliber 30-255 PS is also difficult to obtain. So, the obvious choice is the Tutima Glashütte Patria Admiral Blue, equipped with the Caliber 617.

　The Cal. 617, released in 2013, has a classic design that I personally adore, including a Glashütte-style three-quarter plate, a retractable stopper, and a balance wheel with numerous counterscrews. When you actually use it, winding the crown is comfortable, and the feel of turning the hands is exquisite, making it clear that it was designed with the enthusiasts who buy three-hand manual-winding watches in this day and age in mind. What's more, the bridges are not split, and the balance wheel is free-sprung, so you don't have to worry about handling it too much. It's one of the best movements of its kind.

　The packaging as a watch is also excellent, and the polish of the hands, indexes, lacquered dial, and case is outstanding for this price range. The only issues that may be of interest to Japanese people are the slightly large case diameter and the crown guard, which looks a bit bulky.

Chieko Tsuruoka's recommended hand-wound watches

Recommendation 1: Hublot Big Bang Mecha-10 Titanium

　Manually wound watches are thin and easy to give a classical design... While I'm drawn to this appeal, I'd like to go against the trend and recommend the Big Bang Meca-10 Titanium. I chose it for its avant-garde and striking appearance, which is hard to believe is a manual winding watch.

　The Meca-10 is a collection that Hublot released in 2016 along with the newly developed manual-winding movement, Cal. HUB1201. While its power reserve of approximately 10 days is a notable feature, the highlight of this model is its design. The openwork dial reveals a distinctive power reserve indicator and a rack and pinion at 12 o'clock.

　This rack and pinion slides when the mainspring housed in the two barrels is wound. This mechanism is linked to the power reserve indicator, and a disc at 6 o'clock displays the number of days remaining. Furthermore, a red mark appears on the disc at 3 o'clock, which is interlocked with the day disc, when the power reserve falls below three days, indicating that it is time to wind the watch.

　While it may be said that such a gimmick is essential to the function of a power reserve indicator, this model was developed to "show off the mechanism." If one of the attractions of a hand-wound watch is "enjoying the mechanism" such as "winding the mainspring," then this model can be said to be an excellent match for the needs of hand-wound watches.

　Incidentally, models with long power reserves take quite a long time to fully wind the mainspring. If the crown is difficult to operate, the winding time can be hellish. However, the crown on this watch is of a reasonable size and easy to operate, which is another positive aspect.

Recommendation 2: Nomos Glashütte "Tangent"

　In addition to being a niche market, there are very few models in the basic price range. This may be due to the small market making mass production difficult, or because manufacturers with a sporty or casual brand image find it difficult to offer classic hand-wound watches.

　Among these, NOMOS Glashütte is a rare brand that offers a lineup of hand-wound watches at an affordable price. Although they have begun to focus on sports watches in recent years, their basic style remains minimalist and classic. This style is well exemplified by the long-selling "Tangent," which was launched in 1992.

　The slim, small-diameter case (35mm diameter, 6.2mm thick), small seconds dial, and tempered blue hands give the impression of a "classic" watch. The polished case is understated and will subtly show off under a jacket cuff. Meanwhile, the flying Arabic numerals and slender lugs give this watch a simple yet original look.

　The price including tax is 275,000 yen (including tax) for the solid back version and 308,000 yen (including tax) for the see-through back version. The in-house movement Cal. α has a power reserve of approximately 43 hours, which is a little short compared to recent standards, but it is within an acceptable range considering the price.

　Furthermore, NOMOS Glashütte offers many hand-wound models, including the Ludwig and Orion, making them a great choice for those purchasing their first hand-wound watch.