A lifesaver for slim wrists: A hands-on review of the Tudor Black Bay 54

We review the new 2023 Tudor Black Bay 54. This is the smallest model in the Black Bay collection with a rotating bezel, but could it become the definitive small-diameter diver? We explore its appeal based on an actual watch with a rubber strap.

A small-diameter model inspired by Tudor's first diver's watch

　This time, we'll be reviewing the new Tudor Black Bay 54, released in 23. The Black Bay is a collection that extracts the essence of the diver's watches the company has developed to date and reconstructs them in a modern style. The Black Bay 54, among others, has a design that mimics Tudor's first diver's watch, the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7922, which was released in 1954. Incidentally, the similarly named Black Bay 58 pays homage to the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7924 (commonly known as the Big Crown), which was released in 58.

　The greatest feature of this model is that it uses a 37mm case that is faithful to the original. In modern times, 37mm diver's watches are more of a boys' size than a men's size. Depending on the brand, they may even be classified as a women's watch. When this model was first announced, there were concerns about whether men would be able to wear it comfortably, but the moment I touched the actual watch, those concerns were allayed.

Black Bay design combined with the features of the Ref. 7922

　Aside from the Black Bay's iconic snowflake hands, the clean case without a crown guard, the bezel insert without minute markings, the gold-trimmed hands and indexes, and the gold lettering are all similar to the Ref. 7922. Regarding the gold color used in this watch, the images on the brand's website make it appear quite light, but the actual watch is a little darker, closer to bronze.

　The dial is a neat, non-date type, and the indexes, which combine dots, bars, and triangles, allow you to distinguish between the up and down directions from any angle, preventing misreading. The hour hand is snowflake-shaped, the minute hand is pencil-shaped, and the second hand is lollipop-shaped, and all of the indexes and hands are coated with Super-LumiNova. The Super-LumiNova on the second hand is positioned slightly inward, which prevents it from overlapping with the index. Each hand is clearly pointing to the object it is supposed to point to. Although it is an extremely simple design, it is packed with elements that enhance visibility and readability.

　The dial is protected by a box-shaped sapphire crystal. It has a soft appearance similar to the Plexiglas used in the original, and the edges of the dial gently distort when exposed to light. This is where the charm of this retro diver's watch lies, not just its practicality.

　The unidirectional rotating bezel is slightly thin by modern standards and features a black anodized insert. The scale and triangular pointers are all white, and the number of colors used is fewer than on the 41mm Black Bay or the black dial model of the Black Bay 58. For watches of a certain size, using multiple colors doesn't bother you, but using multiple colors on a smaller diameter model can quickly become cluttered. The clean impression of this watch is likely due in part to the understated use of colors.

　The case is thin for a 200m water-resistant diver's watch, measuring approximately 11mm. The finish is the same as a typical stainless steel Black Bay, with a satin finish on the top and polished on the sides, and chamfered edges where the two meet. The case measures approximately 46mm tall, reduced to match the diameter.

　The 6mm diameter crown, modeled after the original Ref. 7922, features a rosette relief, eliminating the protruding tube seen on previous Black Bay models, resulting in a crown that is less protruding.

　With the exception of a few models, this model, like the entire Black Bay range, also features a solid back.Whether you consider it plain or tool-like depends on personal preference, but the sharply engraved engraving maintains a solid depth and is well-liked.The reference and serial number are engraved on the back of the lug.

Highly functional rubber strap

　Starting with the new 2023 model, the Black Bay also now comes with a rubber strap option. One is the new Master Chronometer-certified red bezel Black Bay, and the other is the Black Bay 54. The review unit I reviewed this time was happily fitted with a rubber strap.

　The distinctive features of this strap include a bow hook that is likely a reused part from a stainless steel bracelet, and a folding buckle with a fine-adjustment mechanism called "T-fit."

　If you want to adjust the strap length beyond the range of the fine adjustment mechanism, you will need to cut the strap itself. If you cut it too far, you will not be able to return it to its original length, so you need to adjust it carefully. However, the buckle's fine adjustment mechanism has a reasonable range of adjustment, so you don't need to be too strict. The rubber strap is available in three sizes, so if you can find the size that suits you, you can use it without cutting it.

　Speaking of personal preference, when it comes to rubber straps, I prefer ones that can be cut and adjusted like this model. This is because the tip of the strap does not protrude when worn on the wrist. Rubber is harder than leather or fabric materials, so the protruding tip can often get caught on clothing. It's a small thing, but for someone like me who finds this annoying, protruding tip is not a very pleasant thing.

　The rubber strap has just the right amount of elasticity, and this model features a folding buckle that makes it easy to fasten and remove, so there's little worry about accidentally dropping it. The back of the strap has a snowflake pattern. Unfortunately, I didn't get to enjoy the benefits much this season, but I'm sure this pattern will help reduce discomfort during the sweaty summer months.

　The fine-tuning mechanism allows you to lengthen the strap by lifting it with the buckle open and then pulling it, or shorten it by pushing it in. The buckle is a double-lock type with a flip. The white ceramic ball gives it a satisfying click when operated, and it is less likely to wear out from repeated opening and closing.

　Considering that rubber straps are available for the two new Black Bay models for 23, we can expect to see an expansion of rubber strap options across the collection as a whole in the future.

The size and design balance blend seamlessly into a man's wrist.

　The watch feels as light and comfortable on the wrist as it looks. The thin and small case for a diver's watch, the flat case back, the low center of gravity, the firm rubber strap, and the folding buckle that maintains good weight balance all contribute to an excellent wearing comfort.

　In the case of this watch, what concerns me is not how it fits, but rather how it looks on the wrist. My wrist circumference is about 16.5cm, which is roughly average for a Japanese adult male, or maybe a little on the small side. Based on this, and speaking purely from a personal perspective, I think it's well within the acceptable range. However, if you normally wear a larger watch, you may find the small size disconcerting. If you're considering purchasing one, I recommend trying it on and looking at it in a full-length mirror.

　Looking at this model, it seems that the small-diameter diver's watch genre requires a very strict balance of design. If you ignore the fact that it's a diver's watch and just look at the 37mm diameter, it's a respectable men's size, but when you combine elements like the wide rotating bezel and large indices and hands, it suddenly feels more condensed, making the numbers appear even smaller. If the bezel were made thinner and the indices smaller, then legibility would be reduced. In that respect, I feel that this model has succeeded in reducing the diameter while maintaining the balance common to the Black Bay.

　Let's take a look at how it feels to operate. The 6mm diameter crown is just large enough. Simply unscrew it, wind the mainspring, and pull it out one notch to set the time. This entire operation can be performed smoothly. Since it has no date function, it's convenient that there's little effort required to start using it from a stopped state.

　The unidirectional rotating bezel has 60 clicks per revolution, and the display accuracy is not an issue. Many luxury watches these days have 120 clicks per revolution. A higher number of clicks gives the impression of precision, but on the other hand, being able to set it more precisely does not offer much practical benefit. As is the case with all Black Bays, the rotating bezel is thin and does not protrude from the case, making it a little difficult to turn. This is all the more difficult with this model, as the bezel diameter itself is small.

Will this be the long-awaited definitive small-diameter diver's watch?

　Looking at new models released in recent years, it's clear that the watch industry as a whole is moving toward smaller diameters. And diver's watches are no exception. For diver's watches, which should strive for maximum legibility, a smaller diameter that could compromise performance seems contradictory. However, diver's watches are no longer simply diving tools; they are enjoyed for their tough specifications that can withstand harsh environments and their diverse designs.

　Some may disagree, but I don't think there is a definitive masterpiece among small-diameter diver's watches. This is probably due to the demand for strict design balance, as mentioned above.

　This latest model, released in the midst of all this, makes use of the company's experience in producing diver's watches of various sizes. The simple and concise design is subtly retro, and the fit is outstanding. As a diver's watch, it boasts high levels of water resistance, visibility, and readability, and is equipped with the Manufacture Caliber MT5400, which has a power reserve of approximately 70 hours and a silicon balance spring with excellent magnetic resistance. While it is certainly a watch in the understated category, it stands out for its lack of blind spots. It certainly has all the makings of a long-selling watch.

　I wouldn't recommend this watch to anyone looking for a watch that makes a big impact, but if you're looking for a watch that will gently accompany you at all times and give you peace of mind when you wear it, this is definitely a suitable candidate.