IWC Pilot's Watch Mark XX Silver Dial Review: Is this sophisticated three-hand aviation watch a good choice?

The core IWC Pilot's Watch Mark series, which dates back to the dawn of aviation, underwent a new generation change in 2022. A year later, I had the opportunity to test the silver-plated dial model added to the Mark XX lineup. As someone whose five main watches are all aviation watches, I'd like to share my honest impressions and results after a week of use.

A descendant of the Mark series that has made its mark in aviation history

　At a time when navigational technology was still in its infancy and flying was still considered a dangerous activity, IWC's first aviation watch, developed in 1936, was lauded by pilots around the world. Following the Big Pilot's Watch, featuring a pocket watch movement in a 55mm case, IWC completed the timeless classic "Mark XI" in 48. This timepiece, created at the request of the Royal Air Force, was revolutionary in that it housed the movement in a soft-iron inner case to block out the harmful effects of magnetism. The dial, with its design inspired by aircraft cockpit instruments, offered excellent legibility. The Mark series has been a perennial bestseller through successive generations, and the current collection is the "Pilot's Watch Mark XX."

　I'd always thought that aviation watches should have a black dial, which makes them instantly legible even in the intense sunlight of high altitudes. However, the current Mark XX is available with a blue and green sunray dial in addition to matte black, and the new 2023 version commemorating the 75th anniversary of the watch's birth is even silver, giving it the look of a dress watch. Even though it's a descendant of the legendary Pilot's Watch collection, can it really be called an aviation watch? I felt this uneasiness when I first held the actual watch for my review.

A dial design with a mature feel and a comfortable fit

　After trying it on for a week, I quickly realized that my initial concerns about legibility were not an issue at all. The bright silver-plated dial is close to white, and the contrast with the black-edged hands and black indexes coated with Super-LumiNova is striking, making it extremely easy to read. While I can't verify its legibility in the cockpit during a flight, perhaps the excellent double-sided anti-reflective coating on the domed sapphire crystal makes it easy to read the time, even in bright sunlight on a sunny day. The clearance between the dial and hands is a little large, but this is standard for a sports model.

　The date display at 3 o'clock is written modestly in thin black font on a white background, and has an exquisite layout that blends in with the indices. I recall that the previous Mark XVIII had a date window that was too far inward, probably because it was a Sellita-based movement, but the dial of this model is perfectly balanced. The minute markers at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock are long bars rather than squares and coated with luminous material, and the placement of the triangle mark, brand logo, and Arabic numerals has also been improved. The somewhat unnatural feeling of empty space on the dial that was felt on the previous model has been completely eliminated.

　The crown is easy to pull out, has no play from side to side, and is easy to turn. Setting the hands feels smooth both forward and backward. The screw-down lock after use is simple to operate; just push it in and turn it half a turn, demonstrating IWC's meticulous attention to detail.

　The case size is the same 40mm diameter as the previous model, but the lug-to-lug measurement has been reduced from 51mm to 49mm, improving the fit. For me, whose wrist is 17.5mm, this approximately 2mm reduction in size was extremely effective. During the test period, I wore the watch 24 hours a day, including while sleeping, and it was so comfortable I almost forgot I was wearing it. The highly refined bracelet also played a major role in this. The five links flexibly conform to the wrist, with just the right amount of play in each section, resulting in a high level of comfort.

　The satin-finished middle case is matched with the polished bezel, and the bracelet, with its rhythmic alternation of satin and polished finishes, is a perfect match. The slightly polished chamfered edges from the case to the lugs occasionally reflect light, highlighting the three-dimensional effect.

　The buckle can be smoothly unlocked with a single push from both sides, and the two-folding middle plate is solidly constructed with a luxurious feel. What's more, it features the EasX-CHANGE mechanism, which is a slightly unusual design that requires you to push in the central lever on the back of the connection. While it may be a little confusing at first, the bracelet can be easily attached and detached from the second time onwards. The robust construction of the mechanism itself also gives it a sense of security.

A design that blends seamlessly into a variety of scenes

　During the fitting period, I took the Mark XX to various places. First, the day after the fitting began, I went to the golf course. Of course, while playing, I wore a dedicated GPS watch that displays the distance to the green and hazards, and kept the Mark XX in a valuables box. The satisfying feeling of hitting a great shot is the same as the shock of a drop on a watch, so I don't recommend playing while wearing a mechanical watch. However, GPS watches are too casual and don't go well with jacket styles before and after playing. However, the sporty and sophisticated look of the Mark XX suited the luxurious atmosphere of the clubhouse perfectly.

Refined functional beauty that you can't help but love

　The Mark XX's movement is the in-house Cal. 32111, a collaboration between Richemont subsidiary Val Fleurier and IWC engineers. It features a silicon escapement and bidirectional winding mechanism, boasting a 120-hour power reserve. While I wasn't able to experience this during my week-long test run, for users who regularly use multiple watches, this long power reserve alone is enough reason to consider this watch as a potential purchase.

　Let me summarize my impressions. The Pilot's Watch Mark XX is an aviation watch with a historical background, and it possesses unique functional beauty. The silver dial also broadens the range of styling options, blending seamlessly into a variety of scenes and asserting just the right amount of individuality. In terms of visibility, design, and fit, I can confidently say that this is an excellent watch for daily use.

　The Mark series was popular as an "entry model" a few generations ago, but now it has reached a respectable level in both price and quality. As mentioned at the beginning, this silver dial may be a little removed from the mainstream of aviation watches. However, this does not necessarily mean that a subgenre is inferior to the mainstream, and instead, it can be said to have acquired a new appeal in the form of "sophistication." If you pick up this watch, it will not only tell the time, but will also add color to your daily life.

　If you want a serious aviation watch, you can choose the matte black version, and if you want a more glamorous look, the blue or green sunray dial will meet your needs. However, at least for me, I've become a big fan of this silver dial. To complement my personal collection, which is biased towards black, I can't help but feel that acquiring this watch was an extremely legitimate and wise choice (I'm seriously considering purchasing it as my fourth aviation watch!).