Complications that expand the dreams of mechanical watches: Watch journalist Norio Takagi's top 5 watches released in 2023

2023.12.25

This project asks prominent journalists from Japan and around the world to choose their top five watches released in 2023. This time, we will introduce five masterpieces selected by Norio Takagi, a watch journalist and known as the author of "The World's Easiest to Understand How Wristwatches Work" (Sekai Bunka Publishing).

Norio Takagi's new work for 2023


1st Place: Audemars Piguet "CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Ultra Complications Universelle RD#4"

 I was lucky enough to have the opportunity to actually operate it at the launch event in Switzerland, and I was impressed by the finished product. The chiming mechanism and the newly developed rattrapante are impressive, but the perpetual calendar mechanism, which distinguishes leap years by combining gears with different numbers of teeth, is innovative and clever.

Audemars Piguet "CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Ultra Complications Universelle RD#4"
Automatic winding (Cal. 1000). 90 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 64 hours. 18K White Gold case (diameter 42mm, thickness 15.55mm). Water resistant to 2 bar. Price upon request.


2th place: Chopard "LUC 1860"

 The hand-engraved guilloché dial, its color, the size of the case, the no-date display, the thin automatic winding with a micro-rotor, and even the finish make this a watch that is sure to strike a chord with any watch enthusiast.

Chopard "LUC 1860"
Automatic (Cal. LUC 96.40-L). 29 jewels. Power reserve approximately 65 hours. 28,800 vph. Lucent steel case (36.5mm diameter, 8.2mm thick). Water resistant to 30m. Boutique exclusive. Price: 3,465,000 yen (tax included).


3nd place: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph

 A. Lange & Söhne's first vertical clutch chronograph is designed to reduce the shock caused by the operation, which is a weak point. The second and minute counter hands are placed on the same axis in the center, and both are reset using only the heart cam on the minute counter side, which is also unique.

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph
Automatic movement (Cal. L156.1 DATOMATIC). 52 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 50 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42.5mm, thickness 14.2mm). Water resistant to 12 bar. Limited to 100 pieces worldwide. Price upon request.


4th place: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

 Although much of the chronograph mechanism design is borrowed from the Cal. 829, released in 1996, the watch is well-developed, as can be sensed from the light and easy operation of the buttons. Unlike previous models, the decision to provide hour and minute hands on both sides was a bold one, taking advantage of the advantages of the inverted case.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph
Manual winding (Cal. 860). 38 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 52 hours. Stainless steel case (49.4mm x 29.9mm, 11.14mm thick). Water resistant to 30m. Price: 3,652,000 yen (tax included).


5. Grand Seiko "Tentagraph"

 This watch was born from further refining and consolidating the innovative features of Seiko chronographs, such as the modular design, vertical clutch, and triple hammer. The designer's spirit is evident in the operation feel and push button position, which do not feel like a modular watch.

Grand Seiko "Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph SLGC001"
Automatic movement (Cal. 9SC5). 60 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Bright titanium case (diameter 43.2 mm, thickness 15.3 mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 1,815,000 yen (tax included).


General comment

 The pandemic was by no means a time of dormancy for the watch industry. This year's new releases demonstrate that, despite the various constraints, watch brands have been quietly sharpening their fangs. One evidence of this is the large number of newly developed movements, more than usual. Watch enthusiasts will be delighted to see the large number of interesting new calibers, particularly in the chronograph category, which is difficult to develop. Furthermore, thanks to the robust watch market, several ultra-complex models, such as those exemplified by Audemars Piguet, were released, and the fact that most of them sold out immediately sheds light on the future of the watch industry. Furthermore, in terms of exteriors, I felt that the finishing of cases and dials had improved significantly, and many brands were expressing stronger individuality in terms of design. The majority of chronographs in my five selections are due to personal preference and the excellent new calibers. While I would never own the top one myself, I can confidently say it is a true masterpiece that has expanded my dreams for mechanical watches.



Selector Profile

Norio Takagi

A watch journalist, he is one of the industry's leading theorists, and his articles are captivating, backed by the knowledge he gained in the Faculty of Engineering and his overwhelming experience in reporting. His extensive knowledge and sharp perspectives are used to write articles for watch magazines, as well as watch features in general magazines and articles for beginners in newspapers. He has published "How Wristwatches Work," a comprehensive introductory book on mechanical watches, published by Sekai Bunka Publishing.


[The watch that symbolizes 2023] Audemars Piguet's Universelle is "super easy to complete"!

http://www.webchronos.net/features/106333/
Top 10 In-House Chronographs

http://www.webchronos.net/ranking/104591/
Introducing some of the most noteworthy super-complication watches from the new 2023 releases!

http://www.webchronos.net/features/99362/