Sakutan Toji (Azabudai) / Creator of otherworldly delicacies

2024.01.27

Sakutan Toji is a Japanese restaurant that quietly opened in Azabudai 17 years ago and has been loved by those who visit by invitation only. Captivated by the space, the food, and the personality of the owner, gourmet adults frequent the restaurant.

Charcoal grilled blackthroat seaperch

Charcoal grilled blackthroat seaperch
Even among the Nodoguro caught in specific fishing grounds, Shimoeda only purchases those with a shape that satisfies him, from the size of the eyes to the shape of the tail fin. After leaving it to rest for a few days, it is marinated in soy sauce and mirin, and then cooked over charcoal for the minimum amount of time necessary, allowing the Nodoguro's own fat to coat it and give it a glossy appearance. The contrast between the skin, which has a pleasant texture similar to that of deep-fried sea bream, and the flesh, which is as soft as boiled fish, is outstanding.
Interview and text by Yui Togawa
Photographs by Yu Mitamura
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]


The ultimate in comfort hidden within a pure appearance

Masayuki Shimoeda

Masayuki Shimoeda
Born in Ibaraki Prefecture in 1967, he moved to Tokyo and worked at a kaiseki restaurant that values ​​traditional artisanal work, where he learned the basics of a wide variety of ingredients and techniques, including pufferfish, soft-shelled turtle, and eel. After that, he worked on-site, while also gaining experience in menu development and restaurant launches. In December 2006, he opened Sakutan Toji in Azabudai.

 There is a door without a sign on the first floor of a building at the intersection of Iikura Katamachi. You would never imagine that there is a restaurant beyond it, but there is a sense of superiority that only visitors know about. Inside the restaurant, at the bottom of the stairs, there is a counter made of 180-year-old zelkova wood, one meter deep, on a scale that is rare to see these days, with eight seats comfortably arranged.

 The restaurant's appearance is overwhelming, but the reason for its long-time guests is the cuisine created by owner Shimoeda Masayuki. When the charcoal-grilled Nodoguro seabass is served, you can hear him say, "Yes, this is what I've been wanting to eat." Served on Oribe ware, it leaves a very clean impression, but once you put it in your mouth, your breath catches and your eyes widen. You will experience for yourself what he means when he says, "I believe in food that needs no explanation."

 The rice cooked in the pot is sure to be so delicious you won't be able to stop eating. You can smell the nostalgic scent of the sun, and the more you chew, the deeper the flavor becomes. Although one serving is a little small, you'll find yourself asking for two, three, no, four, or five servings.

 Chef Shimoeda, through his experience and sensibility, pursues the ultimate in deliciousness that satisfies him. To that end, he seeks out the finest ingredients, from salt and soy sauce to bonito flakes, and then refines them before using them. The chef's choice dishes have a feast-like feel, but are also gentle on the body, which is often the opposite of that. Perhaps this is why, after eating, one feels satisfied both physically and mentally, and one's sense of taste is heightened.

 The unfamiliar name of the restaurant, "Sakutan Toji," refers to the winter solstice, which falls on November 1st of the lunar calendar. As it only comes around once every 19 years and 7 months, it is considered an auspicious day and has been celebrated with great fanfare since ancient times. Incidentally, Azabudai, where "Sakutan Toji" is located, is said to be the site of an astronomical observatory. With the opening of Azabudai Hills, new restaurants have been added, making the area even more lively.

 Of the countless restaurants in the world, it is rarer to come across a place you want to visit and dine on again, even more rare than going to a restaurant that is difficult to get a reservation for.Every time I visit Sakutan Toji, I am enveloped in the utmost happiness as a diner.


winter solstice

winter solstice

The walls of the restaurant are paved with Gensho stone, each with a different texture, creating a charming atmosphere. At the counter seats, you can watch the dishes being prepared one after another, and enjoy conversations with the chef, who shares his wealth of experience and knowledge. There are also two other private rooms, which are perfect for entertaining guests.

Second Senoo Building B1F, 3-1-4 Azabudai, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Tel.03-6273-7718
Closed on Saturdays, Sundays, and public holidays
17:00-22:00 (last entry at 20:30)
Chef's choice course from 25,300 yen (no service charge)
*When making a reservation, please tell us that you saw the Japanese version of "Chronos."


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