A solid update that delights! Reviewing the new Longines Legend Diver with a 39mm case

This is a hands-on review of the new Longines Legend Diver, released in 2023. This model features a compact 39mm case and a no-date dial. Through subtle yet steady updates, Longines has further refined this long-selling model.

The Longines Legend Diver with a 39mm case has evolved even further.

　The model we're reviewing today is the Longines Legend Diver, a 39mm case model released in 2023. The Legend Diver is descended from the company's diver's watch, the Reference 7042, which was launched in 1959. This original model was an epoch-making model, boasting a water resistance of 12 bar thanks to Erwin Piquelet's Super Compressor Case, which utilizes water pressure to enhance water resistance.

　The current Legend Diver collection began in 2007. Initially a non-date model, it was eventually changed to a date model, and in the process, the movement was steadily updated.

　The existing lineup is available in two case sizes, 42mm and 36mm, and the new model is somewhere in between. However, it's not just a size variation. While maintaining the design codes that have been in place since 1959, both the interior and exterior have been updated. It has been released as a higher-performance model that has obtained COSC-certified chronometer status and meets the requirements for diver's watches as defined by ISO 6425.

　Currently, the existing model and the new model are being sold side by side. It is unclear whether this will continue for a while or whether they will be integrated into the new model. However, it is safe to assume that the new model will take the lead. Let's take a look at the more refined Legend Diver.

A timeless, functional dial that's not outdated, despite being a reproduction model

　Following the design of the Super Compressor case, the ring around the dial functions as a rotating inner bezel. The inner bezel, marked in one-minute increments, has a certain width, so the actual display area of ​​the dial is slightly shifted inward.

　The indexes are a combination of Arabic numerals and bars, and the minute circle is slightly longer. This eliminates white space and enhances the sense of condensation. The hour hand is arrow-shaped, the minute hand is baton-shaped, and the second hand has a triangular pointer near its tip. Each hand has a different shape, so there is no chance of misreading them. Super-LumiNova is applied to the triangle on the inner bezel, the indexes, and the hour, minute, and second hands.

　The dial printing and Super-LumiNova color are primarily white with some green accents. Although it is a reissue model, it does not overly emphasize the vintage feel, as would be the case with cream colors. Speaking from a personal perspective, I like the specifications of this model, as the combination of a vintage-style dial and a crisp case can feel a bit mismatched.

It's not just size variations. The biggest evolution is in the case design.

　The basic design, with its slender lugs and two crowns, is the same as previous Legend Divers, but the lugs are shorter and less curved downward, and the crown is shorter, making the watch look more compact than its numerically suggest.

　The case finish has also been changed. The previous model was completely polished, but this model adds a satin finish to the case sides. This gives the case a more defined, three-dimensional look. There is no distortion in the mirrored surface, and the edges have clear, defined lines.

　The domed sapphire crystal gives the appearance of a protruding inner bezel, adding a retro feel and helping to maximize visibility of the small dial.

　The case back is a screw-down solid back. The image of a diver is engraved in the center. If you look closely, you'll see that the diver is wearing a watch on his left wrist. The watch has two crowns. Yes, it's a Legend Diver. You can't see it clearly without a magnifying glass, but it's a glimpse of the playfulness hidden in the details.

　Around the outside of the case are inscriptions that indicate that the watch is chronometer certified, that it is water resistant to 300m, and that it is antimagnetic. On most diver's watches, these would be proudly displayed on the dial. However, on this model, these inscriptions are placed on the case back, achieving a dial layout that is faithful to the original.

　The engraving on the case back of this watch is aligned directly with the case. It is unclear whether it uses a bayonet mechanism like Omega's Naiad Lock, or whether the case back is a two-piece structure with a threaded outer periphery and an engraved center. From what I can see, it is likely the latter.

A charming rice bracelet with a relaxed mid-century vibe.

　The new Legend Diver is available with either a stainless steel bracelet or a leather strap, and the model reviewed here is the stainless steel bracelet version. Diver watch bracelets typically feature sturdy designs made up of large links. However, this model features a seven-link rice bracelet. It has a classic design symbolizing the mid-1900s, with polished central links that are rounded like grains of rice. While it might be a bit daunting for heavy use, the design blends seamlessly with the elegant and retro inner bezel design of the Legend Diver.

　The bracelet has a short link length, allowing it to sway freely. The inside is finished in satin, making it comfortable against the skin. The buckle is a single-lock, three-fold style that opens and closes with a push button.

　It is highly accomplished in terms of creating the vintage feel that is desired in rice bracelets, but if I had to point out two areas where I would like to see improvement, they would be that the links are connected using a split pin and that there is no one-touch fine adjustment mechanism.

　In terms of durability, screw-type link connections are preferable. Although they are more expensive, they are somewhat inferior considering that screw-type links are not uncommon in watches in the same price range. However, the use of split pins may also contribute to the range of movement of the links and the unique looseness that gives them a vintage look.

　There are five holes on the side of the buckle, which can be used to fine-tune the spring bar by poking it with a thin rod. However, unlike the modern-day mechanisms used by many manufacturers, there is no mechanism that can be easily adjusted with just your fingertips. However, I personally don't see this as a major drawback. If a more complex fine-tuning mechanism had been installed, the buckle would have been thicker, which would have resulted in a loss of some of the vintage look.

　Many models these days feature quick-change mechanisms that allow for easy detachment of the case and strap, and Longines has also introduced these in several of its new products. However, this model does not feature such a mechanism. This is merely my own speculation, but I suspect it may be because the spring bars themselves are thicker and designed specifically for divers' watches.

The fit is excellent!

　When I actually put it on, I was surprised at how well it fit. I've used a 42mm case model before, but the long lugs stretched all the way around my wrist, making it feel a little uncomfortable. The new model has a smaller case and shorter lugs, so even I, who has a wrist circumference of about 16.5cm, can wear it comfortably. It's water resistant to 300m, but its thickness is slim, so it fits easily under a shirt cuff.

　The combination of elegant elements, such as the glossy black dial with a lacquer finish, the clean case lines, the inner bezel, and the rice bracelet, keeps the watch from being overly sporty despite being a diver's watch, making it easy to use for business purposes as well.

　The high-contrast dial offers excellent visibility both indoors and outdoors in bright sunlight. The Super-LumiNova is available in two colors: the triangle on the inner bezel and the four bars inside the Arabic numerals are green, while the other numerals glow blue.

　The inner bezel can be operated using the crown at the 2 o'clock position. When you unscrew the crown and turn it, the inner bezel rotates accordingly. Turning the crown toward 12 o'clock moves it counterclockwise, and turning it toward 6 o'clock moves it clockwise, making it easy to set intuitively. There is no clicking sensation when turning, and it moves smoothly. Therefore, fine adjustments with your fingertips are required to precisely align the minute markers. When screwing the crown in, the inner bezel did not rotate along with it.

　Compared to an outer bezel that you can just grip and turn, this requires several steps: unscrewing, turning the crown multiple times to set the scale position, and then screwing it back in. If you plan to use this function regularly, you should be aware that it will take some time. Using it too frequently can also lead to wear on the crown and the threads of the tube.

　The crown at the 4 o'clock position is used to set the time. It is also screw-down. You can adjust the time by unscrewing it and pulling it out one notch. Since there is no date display, there are no particular points to be careful of when operating it.

　The movement is Longines' exclusive Caliber L888.6. It boasts excellent specifications, including high precision, COSC-certified chronometer status, high magnetic resistance thanks to a silicon balance spring, and a power reserve of approximately 72 hours. It is based on the ETA Caliber 2892-A2, a movement renowned for its thinness and automatic winding.

Retro-looking urban diver

　The new Legend Diver, released in 2023, boasts a more comfortable size and a superior finish compared to existing models. Many watches, not just the Legend Diver, undergo repeated updates to stay relevant. However, this evolution is not always desirable for everyone. Focusing on trends and specific tastes can disappoint existing fans. However, models that incorporate change while stubbornly adhering to the original design codes are recognized as iconic pieces that represent the brand.

　In my personal opinion, this is a 100% positive and well-received update. The design, which has been around since 1959, remains almost unchanged, but the exterior is modernized and the movement has been upgraded, so despite being a reissue model, it doesn't feel outdated.

　The new Legend Diver, with its sleek rotating inner bezel housed in a compact case, is perhaps the perfect solution for an urban diver's watch. The rice bracelet with its single-locking buckle isn't particularly suited to diving, especially the leather strap that's available as an option. However, for relaxed everyday use, this is just right. And if necessary, it can also function as a full-fledged diver's watch meeting ISO standards. This model is a wolf in sheep's clothing, as they say.