If you were to choose a watch based on its movement, which would it be? 10 recommended models from the Chronos Japan editorial team

Since 2000, each company has been competing fiercely in the development of watch movements. However, there are probably not many users who choose their watch based on its movement rather than its design or exterior. However, this time, we will introduce "watches you should choose based on their movement" for the select few "watch geeks" who have memorized the caliber numbers of movements and are fascinated by their history and the technology used. The models were selected by two each from the watch magazine Chronos Japan, editor-in-chief Hirota Masamasa, deputy editor-in-chief Suzuki Yukiya, and editors Hosoda Yuto, Tsuruoka Chieko, and Ohashi Yosuke.

Movements recommended by the Chronos Japan editorial team

If you were to ask a question like, "Name a masterpiece of a watch," there would be as many different model names as there are watch enthusiasts. Patek Philippe's "Calatrava," Omega's "Speedmaster," IWC's "Portugieser Chronograph"... But the only ones who would happily answer the question, "Name a masterpiece of a movement," would be "watch geeks" who are so immersed in the depths of the "watch swamp" that they can't turn back.

　Of course, the watch market has matured in recent years, and there are many users with deep knowledge. However, it is rare for people to know about each movement, and caliber numbers can be difficult to remember in the first place.

　However, it is also true that there are many classic movements that need to be talked about (or that we want to talk about?). So this time, although it is a bit niche, each member of the Chronos Japan editorial team has selected two watches equipped with their favorite movements.

Editor-in-Chief Masamasa Hirota's recommended movements

①Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch (Cal. 3861)

　Chronographs, which use many stainless steel parts, are inevitably prone to magnetization. As a watch enthusiast, I would like to prevent magnetism, but in today's world where magnets are commonplace in our daily lives, especially in high-tech devices, it is becoming increasingly difficult to avoid them.

　So, if you're looking for a chronograph for everyday use, I recommend the latest Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, equipped with the Caliber 3861. I bought this model when it first came out and have been using it ever since, with great satisfaction.

　In addition to being magnetically resistant to 15,000 gauss, it has precision exceeding that of a chronometer, and despite its low beat of 21,600 vibrations per hour, it also has excellent portability.

　With a daily accuracy of within ±5 seconds under any circumstances, it's perfect for everyday use. What's more, the Cal. 3861 has a hacking function, so you can set the time accurately without having to use the technique of stopping the second hand by turning the hands backwards.

　The watch is much lighter than its predecessor, so it feels great to wear. The bracelet tapers a little too much, but the watch is so light that the head doesn't slip off. The price has gone up, but that's understandable considering the features. It's not an entry-level model, but it's a timeless classic.

②Jaeger-LeCoultre "Reverso Tribute Small Seconds" (Cal. 822)

　Jaeger-LeCoultre's Caliber 822 is one of the few hand-wound movements that still retains a classic design. It was designed by Jaeger-LeCoultre's Roger Guignard, a master of movement design who also worked on the Caliber 630 series of meca-quartz movements, as well as the Caliber 899 and Caliber 975 automatic movements.

　The superiority of the Caliber 822 movement is evident from the fact that later A. Lange & Söhne's original "Lange 1" and "1815" were equipped with movements with improved Caliber 822 designs. Jaeger-LeCoultre likely designed this movement with the understanding that it would be shared with A. Lange & Söhne.

　Although it is thin, it inherits the classic design of high-end watches, with the crown and ratchet wheels hidden under the bridge, and it also perfectly embodies Jaeger-LeCoultre's design philosophy of the past, which was to achieve high precision with a mainspring with low torque.

　The latest Cal. 822/2 replaces the conventional regulator with a free-sprung balance, which is shock-resistant and highly isochronous. Since this movement is already highly accurate, the benefits of a free-sprung balance seem small, but the lack of a regulator means that the accuracy is less likely to be affected by strong impacts. It's unfortunate that the bridge chamfering has been changed to a machine-made diamond-cut finish, but perhaps this is unavoidable given the cost.

Movements recommended by Deputy Editor Yukiya Suzuki

① F.P. Journe "Chronomètre Souverain" (Cal. 1304)

When I was asked to choose a watch based on its movement, the first model that came to mind was the FP Journe Chronomètre Souverain. It's now a rare model that's difficult to obtain, but it's also known as the second coming of Breguet. Among the many masterpieces created by the genius watchmakers of his time, this watch's simplicity is what most succinctly embodies François-Paul Journe's philosophy of always striving for precision.

　The movement it is equipped with is the hand-wound Cal. 1304. Inspired by 19th century marine chronometers, the Chronomètre Souverain is equipped with two barrels, aiming for stable accuracy rather than a long power reserve, in order to embody the essence of marine chronometers, which were used at the time by European powers such as Britain to compete for accuracy as a matter of national prestige in order to gain control of the seas. The role of the mainsprings housed in the two barrels is not to lengthen the power reserve, but to supply stable torque to the gear train, thereby stabilizing the oscillation angle of the balance. This is why the Chronomètre Souverain has the word "chronometer" in its model name.

　At the same time, perhaps to more symbolically express its high precision, the movement is symmetrical from 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock, and while the two barrels and second wheel are visible between the bridges, the third and fourth wheels are hidden on the dial side, resulting in a design that allows the relatively large balance wheel to stand out and stand out. As Journe once said in an interview with Chronos Japan, "I had the idea 30 years ago. It's a watch I really wanted to make," and while simple, it embodies Journe's philosophy, making it a watch equipped with a movement that is literally one of a kind and cannot be found anywhere else in the modern era.

　The Chronomètre Souverain was released in 2005, but in 2004, Journe's long-cherished dream of in-house production of an 18K rose gold movement was realized. Journe said, "A watch must have the 'politeness' to tell time accurately. I want to create the most 'polite watch' in the world." The fact that this watch's movement is made of gold adds to its precision, making it a truly 'appreciated wristwatch.'

② Grand Seiko "Evolution 9 Collection SLGH005 "Birch"" (Caliber 9SA5)

　In 2020, Grand Seiko celebrated the 60th anniversary of its founding in 1960, and announced two groundbreaking movements: the mechanical movement Cal. 9SA5 and the Spring Drive Cal. 9RA5. Both are high-precision movements with the caliber number "9," a symbol of the ultimate, and only Grand Seiko movements are allowed to use the name. However, the Cal. 9SA5 in particular deserves special mention as a pinnacle of Japanese-made mechanical movements.

　As a mass-produced mechanical movement, it offers significant improvements in performance over the 9S mechanical movements that Grand Seiko has previously equipped, including improved accuracy and power transmission efficiency, while also providing robustness, all while keeping the movement thickness to just 5.18mm. This is thanks to a "horizontal gear train structure" that places the automatic winding mechanism, which is usually placed on top of the movement, on the same level as the twin barrels that provide a practical power reserve of approximately 80 hours.

　What's even more noteworthy is that, in order to improve the transmission efficiency of the escapement, Grand Seiko developed and adopted its own "dual impulse escapement" rather than the widely used Swiss lever escapement. While it may be possible for small-volume manufacturers such as micro-maisons to do this, there are very few watch manufacturers, even in Switzerland, that develop their own escapement that is not a derivative of the Swiss lever escapement as their core movement for a watch manufacturer that produces a certain volume of movements. Among mass-produced mechanical movements, Omega's Co-Axial escapement is perhaps the only one that does this.

　In this context, we could not be more pleased that Grand Seiko, a purely Japanese watch brand, has taken on the challenge of developing a "dual impulse escapement" that combines the best of both worlds: the detent escapement, synonymous with high efficiency, and the Swiss lever escapement, which boasts unwavering reliability in terms of high safety.

　Additionally, it was surprising that Seiko, which had never adopted a free-sprung balance without a regulator until now due to a certain "Japanese prudence," has now adopted a free-sprung balance without a regulator for the first time in the Grand Seiko Cal. 9SA5. It is also noteworthy that the Grand Seiko 9S Mechanical, which had previously used a flat balance spring, is now equipped with a winding balance spring for the first time.

　This next-generation core movement, which is the first of its kind, is difficult to assemble and adjust, and I hear that initially the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi in Shizukuishi, Iwate Prefecture, which handles Grand Seiko mechanical models, had difficulty establishing a stable production system. However, this seems to have improved now.

　It is no exaggeration to say that the Cal. 9SA5 is undoubtedly the pinnacle of Japanese-made mechanical movements, and my personal recommendation is the model commonly known as "Shirakaba" (SLGH005). As mentioned above, a watch that embodies Japanese aesthetics, like "Shirakaba," is fitting for a watch that houses such an ambitious and ambitious Japanese-made mechanical movement.

Yuto Hosoda's recommended movement

①Breguet "Classique 5287" (Cal. 533.3)

　A watch that you want to choose based on its movement. This is an exciting and exciting project.

　If I were to choose based on appearance, I would go for a manual-winding chronograph with a carrying arm. If so, it would have to be based on the Lemania CH27. I want something in this lineage, still available in stores, and with a really nice finish.

　Naturally, I would choose the Breguet Classique 5287, which is equipped with the Caliber 533.3. While Vacheron Constantin's Caliber 1142 (free-sprung) is also considered as a rival, the Caliber 533.3, with its regulator equipped with a swan-neck type pressure spring, is the winner.

　I want to look at it forever and operate it forever. I think it's a movement with such magical powers.

②Laurent Ferrier "Classic Micro-Rotor" (Cal.FBN229.01)

　For a watch worn on the wrist and subject to shaking and impact, the most logical escapement would undoubtedly be the Swiss lever type.

　However, Laurent Ferrier's Cal. FBN229.01 uses a natural escapement rather than a Swiss lever escapement. Personally, I'm skeptical of the "high efficiency" that's often cited as a benefit of natural escapements, but the distinctive metallic beat sound that can be heard when you listen closely is fascinating.

　Above all, it is fascinating to think that although it was invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet, it was never put to practical use, and that even today it is only used by a very limited number of brands.

　Of course, the finish is impeccable. In addition, despite the geek-friendly design, the fact that it is an automatic with a micro-rotor gives it a "go-it-yourself" feel, which is a nice touch.

Movements recommended by Chieko Tsuruoka

① Zenith "Chronomaster Sports" (Cal. El Primero 3600)

　As mentioned at the beginning of this article, the movement itself is not often the reason for purchasing a watch, and caliber numbers, which consist of a series of numbers and letters, are difficult to remember in the first place. However, there is one masterpiece in which the movement itself has a name, and that name is widely known: "El Primero."

　El Primero is an automatic chronograph movement that was born in 1969. It is not only Zenith's flagship movement, but has also been used by other watch brands such as Rolex, Panerai, and Tag Heuer.

　What was revolutionary about the El Primero when it was first released was that it featured an automatic winding mechanism despite having a horizontal clutch carrying arm, which takes up a lot of space. Even today, while most automatic chronographs use a vertical clutch, the El Primero still uses this classic carrying arm.

　The design of the El Primero has not changed significantly since its introduction in 1969. However, in 2019, on the occasion of its 50th anniversary, Zenith released the revamped "El Primero II," also known as the Caliber El Primero 3600.

　We would like to recommend the Chronomaster Sport with the El Primero II as a watch that you should choose based on its movement. This is because it features the latest version of the beloved El Primero, and is a masterpiece that allows you to enjoy both the latest and the traditional.

　The evolution of the El Primero II is that it utilizes the previous high-beat escapement, which operates at 36,000 vibrations per hour, to enable 1/10th-second measurement on the chronograph. By drawing power from the escape wheel rather than the fourth wheel, the chronograph seconds hand rotates once every 10 seconds. One of the joys of a chronograph is operating it by pressing the push button. The unique movement of the chronograph seconds hand is sure to double that enjoyment. Another notable feature is the power reserve of approximately 60 hours, a modern specification. It can be said to be a horizontal clutch for a new era.

　The case back is transparent, allowing you to enjoy the movement of the classic carrying arm. Although the design is modern, the three different color schemes of the sub-dial are modeled after the first El Primero model, the A386, released in 1969.

　It's a shame that prices have risen, and this isn't just limited to El Primero. In the past, classic chronographs that were "talked about" were popular in the mid-range price range. Now, prices exceeding 100 million yen are the norm. However, the quality of not only the movement but also the exterior has improved, so it remains one of the watches I want.

② Bvlgari "Octo Finissimo GMT Chronograph" (Cal. BVL318)

In the vein of the "new-generation horizontal clutch," I would like to introduce another watch chosen for its movement: Bulgari's "Octo Finissimo GMT Chronograph."

　Launched in 2014, the Octo Finissimo is now a representative collection for Bvlgari and the ultra-thin watch genre. It goes without saying that it has set numerous world records as an ultra-thin watch, and by combining thinness with practicality, it has dispelled the image of thin watches as difficult to wear on a daily basis, which is often associated with dress watches.

　However, even though they are experts in ultra-thin watches, it is not easy to manufacture an ultra-thin chronograph (in fact, there are not many brands that can manufacture chronograph movements in-house). However, in 19, Bvlgari released this model as the world's thinnest chronograph, including manual winding models. The movement is 3.3mm thick.

　The secret to its thinness is its unique design. First, a peripheral rotor is used to place the automatic winding mechanism on the periphery. Second, a carrying arm-type horizontal clutch is used, but the tip of this clutch has been thinned so that it can be placed under the bridge.

　It does not have a 12-hour counter or date window, but instead has a 24-hour display at 3 o'clock. The hour hand can be moved independently using the push button at 9 o'clock, which blends in with the Octo Finissimo's three-dimensional design, and can be used to display a second time zone.

　The Octo Finissimo's looks and high-quality exterior are major reasons for purchasing, but at the same time, it is the movement that makes it ultra-thin that fascinates watch enthusiasts.

Yosuke Ohashi's recommended movement

1. Seiko "Seiko 5 Sports SKX Sports Style" Ref. SBSA221 (Cal. 4R36)

I like practical watches in an affordable price range, such as the Seiko 5 Sports series. So, rather than introducing movements with noteworthy mechanisms, I would like to introduce them from the perspective of how affordable movements are great.

　The movement in question is the Caliber 4R36. It is one of Seiko's 4R series movements, and is equipped with a day-date display function. It is not an extremely high-spec movement, nor does it have any special mechanisms.

　The biggest appeal of this movement is that it allows you to purchase a new automatic watch at a casual price.

　The price is within reach even for university students interested in mechanical watches. There are not as many options for casual mechanical watches compared to quartz watches. Among them, the presence of a new Seiko brand watch is quite significant.

　This is an important movement in terms of broadening the base of fans interested in mechanical watches. Everyone, let's buy mechanical watches that suit our fashions more casually!

　Now, let's take a look at some specific watches equipped with this movement. The Ref. SBSA221 is one of the models released in 2023 to commemorate the 55th anniversary of the Seiko 5 Sports brand. It pays homage to a popular model from the early days of the Seiko 5 Sports line, and two other variations are available.

　This watch has a cool, retro-futuristic, colorful dial that evokes the 1970s. Also, note the see-through back, which allows you to view the automatic movement. For those holding a mechanical watch for the first time, this is a welcome feature that lets you truly appreciate the mechanical nature of the watch.

　This product is reminiscent of Lamy's Safari fountain pen for beginners, and is positioned as something that beginners to mechanical pens can easily try out.

② Citizen "Attesa Eco-Drive GPS Satellite Radio Wave Watch F950 Double Direct Flight Act Line" Ref. CC4016-67E (Caliber F950)

　Next, we will introduce the Ref. CC4016-67E from Citizen's "Act Line," which is equipped with the quartz movement Cal. F950.

　The reason we have chosen this watch is because we believe it embodies the ideals that Japanese manufacturers have been pursuing since the success of quartz watches: accurate timekeeping, low maintenance, and reasonable price.

　First, there's the GPS satellite radio clock function. The Act Line lineup includes many radio-controlled watches that receive radio waves from base stations and accurately adjust the time. However, there aren't many watches that have this function, which receives and adjusts the time from GPS satellites.

　The advantage of this function is that it allows you to receive radio waves for time correction no matter where you are in the world. Radio-controlled watches are not a problem when used within Japan. However, base stations are not present everywhere in the world, and there are some areas where they are not covered. In this respect, GPS satellite-controlled watches have the advantage.

　Furthermore, the movement of this watch is equipped with a superior "Satellite Wave GPS" that automatically corrects the time when moving to a different time zone, making it perfect for people who are active all over the world.

　Next is the solar power generation function. Since the introduction of the Crystron Solar Cell in 1976, Citizen has continued to develop light-powered watches. Using GPS satellite functions requires a huge amount of power. This can be achieved with solar power generation, a device that generally only generates a small amount of energy. This is truly the result of the technology that Citizen has cultivated.

　This watch is not only "accurate and hassle-free." It also has numerous functions, including a chronograph and dual time. It is made of Super Titanium, which has undergone a unique hardening process, making it extremely durable. This is the "all-inclusive" product in the quartz watch world, and there's no reason not to buy it.