The Life of a Watch Enthusiast @ryochan5711: "The Nautilus is what got me hooked"

2024.02.12

If I had the money, I'm sure I would have made the same choice as this collector, @ryochan5711. He owns three Credor Eichi IIs and four Patek Philippe Ref. 5004s, and after many twists and turns, he has reached this state of mind. He says he's only interested in watches and art, but his journey is quite astonishing.

@ryochan5711
A businessman, he inherited a business and successfully diversified it. He claims to have no interest in food or cars, and devotes his private life to watches and art. "Everyone tends to communicate by wearing similar watches, but I'm different. I don't find it interesting to own the same things as other people." His way of buying things is unusual, in a good way.
Photographer: Takafumi Okuda
Photographs by Takafumi Okuda
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Interview and writing
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2023 issue of Kronos Japan]


"Collecting is something that flows with the flow. It would be a waste if the sense remained the same as it was in the past."

Wisdom II

I first became aware of @ryochan5711 through his three Eichi II watches. It may seem strange to say this, but I never imagined there would be a collector who owned three of these sophisticated watches. "Two were purchased from a department store, and the other was given to me by a collector." It's a choice only he could make, drawn by the simplicity of the watch. However, he still doesn't seem satisfied. He asked, "Mr. Hirota, is there anywhere they sell the original Eichi? Also, I'd like to put a bracelet on my Eichi II. Do you know of any manufacturers that can make one?"

 There are many watch collectors in the world, but when you transcend the manufacturer, era, and price, you become what's known as a super collector. Of course, there are people like that in Japan, too, but I doubt there are any as "omnivorous" as @ryochan5711. Of course, "omnivorous" is meant as a compliment.

"Watches have become popular now, but not long ago they were a rather unassuming hobby. The reason I like watches is because they don't stand out. It's exactly because they're a niche market that they're interesting," he says quietly, sounding more like a scholar than a collector.

"Most people who buy luxury watches are also interested in cars. That's 8 to 9 percent commonality. But I've never bought a foreign car. I don't even have a Lexus. I drive a normal car. I don't really have any taste for food. The only things I can confidently say I like are watches and art. I'm not interested in anything else." When asked about his preferences, he said it was the Rolex Explorer (114270). "There's no watch that's easier to use."

Oyster Perpetual Explorer, Oyster Date, Oyster Perpetual Date

Three watches define @ryochan5711's tastes. From the right, they are the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer (Ref. 114270), Oyster Date (Ref. 6694), and Oyster Perpetual Date (Ref. 1601). All are masterpieces that represent Rolex. The Explorer on the right is his favorite watch. The two on the left were inherited from his grandfather. @ryochan5711 is passionately devoted to his watch hobby, but perhaps the reason his direction is sound is because he has these three watches as his base. In my opinion, collectors who favor the Ref. 114270 are, without exception, formidable.

 He bought a G-SHOCK Foxfire when he was in junior high school, and later inherited his grandfather's Rolex watches: an Oyster Perpetual Date and an Oyster Date. "I think the Rolex 1601 and 6694 that I received from my grandfather really set the tone for my hobby." He then became fascinated with the in-house movements that various companies began to produce. "I bought a Panerai PAM00312 with an automatic P.9000 movement. After that, I also got a Patek Philippe Nautilus (5711) with the intention of it being a watch for the big time."

 With this model, he learned the importance of fit. "It's important to have a comfortable fit that suits you. Fit is one of the most important factors in making a watch last longer." He thought he had found his dream watch, but the Nautilus led him down a path of obsession. The next watch he bought was the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph. "I knew about the automatic 7750, but I didn't like its aesthetics. When I saw the Datograph movement, I wondered what it was, but it was too expensive so I gave up and bought the 1815 Chronograph."

Datograph, 1815 Chronograph, Lange 1

@ryochan5711, who didn't even know the difference between an automatic and a manual-winding chronograph, was impressed by the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph. His first purchase was the 1815 Chronograph, but he later acquired a collection of Datographs. On the left is the older model with a platinum case, while the middle is the current model, also in a platinum case. On the right is the Lange 1 with a bracelet. He says he chose this not because he likes precious metal bracelets, but because he was influenced by luxury sports. It's a choice that's typical of @ryochan5711, who doesn't want to choose the same watch as everyone else.

 What's interesting is the way he buys. Many watch enthusiasts are reluctant to sell their watches, but he has no hesitation in parting with them. "Letting go is part of the history of your collection. I think buying and selling are the same." So what triggers him to let go? "I think that watches that I no longer wear have no meaning. I get rid of them when I no longer wear them." As a result, he began to buy and sell repeatedly. "For a while, I was checking Chrono24, Rakuten, Yahoo! Auctions, etc. every day. People told me I was acting like a dealer, but you can't buy a good watch unless you act like a dealer."

 Incidentally, he also sold his beloved Nautilus. "I still think the 5711 is the best watch, but it's unfortunate that things have changed. Once it becomes so well-known, it becomes just another ordinary watch. I bought the Nautilus at a time when people thought it was old-fashioned, but I think that was the most fun time for me."

 It was Credor's Eichi II that made him decide to make watches his hobby. He saw a picture of it at an offline meetup and felt it had a distinctly different aura. There's a hint at this. Wanting to buy a Japanese watch, he researched domestically produced watches, and picked up an engraved model from Shizukuishi Luxury Watch Studio and a Minase model. When two Credor Eichi IIs with lapis lazuli dials came out, he ordered them all at once. "You just have to be prepared for a big purchase," he laughs, but his buying habit is beyond ordinary. Believing no one else would have a complete Eichi II collection, he also bought one in a different material, eventually completing his collection. "I'm happy with the results. I also bought a two-hand version of Credor's Fuji afterwards."

 His other purchases were also impressive. "I also had a Langematik enamel, a Lange 1 Tourbillon Honey Gold, and a Richard Lange Tourbillon. I also had a Lang & Heyne, a Moritz Grossmann, a Patek Philippe 5070, an Aquanaut Travel Time, and an FP Journe Vagabondage II. The 40th anniversary model of the 5711 was platinum, so it was too heavy." So why did he buy the A. Lange & Söhne with a bracelet?

"When luxury sports watches first became popular, I wondered why I was buying one now, so I turned my attention to dress watches with bracelets. They look luxurious, don't they? That's the result." In addition to the models shown in the photo, he has many more hidden away. These include a Franck Muller 2852 (truly the best), an Urban Jürgensen 1140 with Breguet numerals, and a Bulgari Octo Finissimo Roma, exclusive to Japan. His frequent comments are also profound. "I learned about Jürgensen from Ay&TyStyle's blog. I like the softness of the 1140 with Breguet numerals."

 What's surprising is that he also has a Richard Mille "Nadal" watch in his collection. "I never really tried Richard Mille. I thought it was a rich person's hobby. I played tennis, though, so I knew the number 27. I never dreamed I'd buy one." Feeling unable to criticize it without owning it, he picked up a titanium RM67-01. "It changed my image of it. It's well thought out and feels great to wear." Fascinated by Richard Mille, he bought the RM11-03, RM 004, and RM17-01 in quick succession, eventually arriving at the Nadal RM 027. "If you're going to buy one, it has to be one that really made an impact." The initial sales price was far higher than he'd expected, so he reluctantly gave up, but he was able to acquire it when the price dropped.

Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar 5004

@ryochan5711's insanity is palpable in his four-piece set of Patek Philippe "Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar 5004." "The feel of the Arabic numerals, the small size, and the thickness just feel right." From back to front, there's a platinum model purchased in 2016, a model acquired in 2019 with a pink salmon dial, 18K rose gold case, and baguette-cut diamonds (!) in the indexes. "I don't think anyone would have bought an 18K rose gold 5004 model for 20 million yen in 2019. But I was determined to buy it if it came up for sale." He speaks matter-of-factly, but perhaps his strong grip is the reason for his business success.

 The highlight of his collection is a set of four Patek Philippe 5004s. While there are many fans of the 5004, it's rare to own four. "After I got my hands on a Nautilus, I became deeply interested in Patek Philippe. I thought the 3970, 2499, and the 5004 Arabic were interesting, but they were all incredibly expensive." However, before he got to the 5004s, he digressed. "I ended up buying a 5970P in the meantime, hoping it would be my second big win. I became interested in the 5004s as I researched them." Naturally, once he got his hands on the 5004s, he was faced with a dilemma: should I buy the basic chronograph 3970, or different color versions of the 5004s, or different color versions of the Nautilus 5711s? In the end, he decided on the different color versions of the 5004s. "I thought I'd buy multiples so I wouldn't regret it." His ability to get them all is testament to his "grip." Even if you have money, the 5004 is not something you can find.

 What stands out in his collection are his collection of watches with vintage movements. Though he buys and sells watches repeatedly, this one remains intact. "There was a time when I was obsessed with movements, but I wasn't interested in collecting movements from the same brand. I just wanted to collect well-known, interesting pieces." He explains this casually, but the pieces he's left behind are all impressive: an Omega 30mm T2RG (chronometer model), a Zenith 135, a 10-beat version of the Peuseau 260 (!), a recased Patek Philippe pocket watch, and a Longines 13ZN. I also own a Zenith 2000, but I never expected to find one in chronometer model. "Yes, the Zenith 2000 did have a chronometer model. Incidentally, the 10-beat Peuseau was probably sold by a well-known Japanese collector. I found it on Yahoo! Auctions and won it."

Omega 30mm T2RG, Zenith 135, Pezou 260, 13ZN

This collection is too good to be true, and it's hard to say he was "scared of movements for a while." From left to right: Omega 30mm T2RG, Zenith 135, Peuseau 260 with a 10 bph setting, a recased Patek Philippe pocket movement from the early 20th century, and a Longines 13ZN. He chose transparent backs for all of them, which is his preference. He doesn't say anything, but the case backs, open almost to the edge of the movement, are a good indication of his aesthetic sensibility. All are masterpieces, but the one that personally caught my eye was the Peuseau 260 with a high frequency setting. While there are many low-beat models with large balance wheels, it's interesting that he chose a high-beat setting. Incidentally, this particular watch was owned by a well-known collector I know. It's a tasteful arrangement, as if to say, "Caesar's things belong to Caesar."

 @ryochan5711 has bought every watch there is and seems to have perfected his hobby. However, his tastes may be changing even further.

"I've always had a hobby of looking at art. I've been going to exhibitions since I was a child. But then I started buying contemporary art from people I connected with through Richard Mille. As I bought more, I found artists that I liked." He says he now knows more about Japanese artists than dealers, which is not surprising considering his stance of not buying unless he's researched and convinced. "I own about 20 to 30 pieces, including small ones." It was when he began to pay attention to art that he noticed the appeal of cases. Indeed, when asked about the watches he's interested in, they're all clearly in a different league from what he's used to, such as Louis Vuitton and Cartier.

"I believe that a collection is something that flows with the flow. When choosing a watch, comfort is important, but it would be a waste if your sense of style remained the same as it was in the past." This great collector has completed his collection, but it continues to change. What kind of depth will his collection have gained in 10 years' time?

Bronze statue by Ida Yukimasa and RM 027

@ryochan5711 has also begun to turn his attention to contemporary art. One of his collections is a bronze statue by Ida Yukimasa. He brought it with him because an identical one is in the Richard Mille boutique in London. "I have a deep connection with watches, and I've always been interested in this artist." He also says that it's important to see new things with your own eyes, whether it's watches or art.


Credor "Eichi II": The pinnacle of simple watches

http://www.webchronos.net/features/90685/
The History of Patek Philippe and the Perpetual Calendar. Introducing Recommended Models

http://www.webchronos.net/features/98920/
Portrait of an Iconic Piece A. Lange & Söhne / 1815

http://www.webchronos.net/iconic/17124/