These are the best watches you can buy for under 30 yen! 10 recommendations from the Chronos Japan editorial team

2024.02.23

The editorial staff of the watch magazine Chronos Japan will introduce their recommendations from among current models on the topic of "The best watches you can buy for under 30 yen." The members are Editor-in-Chief Masamasa Hirota, Deputy Editor-in-Chief Yukiya Suzuki, and editors Yuto Hosoda, Chieko Tsuruoka, and Yosuke Ohashi.


Watches recommended by the Chronos Japan editorial team for under 30 yen

 With the recent rise in prices, watches are no exception, with the list prices of each brand rising dramatically. If you want to buy a slightly better luxury watch, a list price of over 100 million or 200 million yen is probably not realistic. However, even though prices have risen, there are still many good watches in the basic price range. If you have a budget of 30 yen, your options will be much wider.

 This time, members of the editorial staff at the watch magazine Chronos Japan have selected and introduced 10 recommended watches, two of each, from current models that can be purchased for under 300,000 yen.


Editor-in-Chief Masamasa Hirota recommends "Watches that can be purchased for under 30 yen"


①Formex "Essence 39"

 There are many attractive watches under 30 yen. France's Berthe makes authentic hand-wound watches based on the Unitas movement, and Japanese manufacturers like King Seiko, Citizen's Series 8, and Orient Star are packed with masterpieces. Turning our attention to micro-maisons, there are countless examples, including Canada's Branche Horology (which carries a hand-wound Sellita movement), the recently popular Baltic, and Yema, which stands out for its excellent value for money. However, this time we've chosen our "recommended" watches under 30 yen, with honesty in mind.

 The first is the Formex "Essence 39." As you'd expect from a major supplier, it offers a great balance of quality and price. It's also great that it's equipped with a Sellita chronometer, even though it's under 30 yen. Aside from the Swatch Group, Ball Watch and Formex are the only two brands that offer chronometers in this price range.

Formex "Essence 39"
BIWI, a major Swiss supplier, not only created the case for the original Big Bang, but also provides rubber straps and dials to renowned Swiss manufacturers. Their in-house brand is Formex. Because they can manufacture most of the exterior in-house, prices are modest compared to the quality. The movement is Sellita's Cal. SW200 with chronometer specifications. While more expensive than regular Sellita watches, their commitment to quality is appealing. The regular model with a strap is priced at 260,000 yen, and even with a bracelet, it's priced at 282,500 yen, making it a very competitive price. Automatic (Cal. SW-200, chronometer specifications). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 38 hours. Stainless steel case (39mm diameter). Water resistant to 100m. 282,500 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Chrono Theory https://chronotheory.jp/


②Seiko "Prospex Diver Scuba" Ref. SBDC101

 The other is Seiko's classic diver's watch, the Prospex Diver Scuba Ref. SBDC101. Despite its modest price, the exterior has a higher quality finish and the overall look is even better. The higher-priced collections are undoubtedly of high quality. However, Seiko dominates when it comes to basic diver's watches that take full advantage of the benefits of mass production.

Seiko "Prospex Diver Scuba" Ref. SBDC101
This model is a modern redesign of the first diver's watch from 1965. Its diameter has been reduced to 40.5mm, and its short overall length makes it easy to handle. The DiaShield exterior is a testament to the practicality of this watchmaker. This scratch-resistant finish is perfect for a diver's watch that will be used for a long time. The dial features an embossed finish molded as a single piece with the indices. Even with a strong shock, the indices won't peel off. While this finish typically makes it difficult to achieve a smooth dial, Seiko's diver's watches don't even notice the embossed indices. The movement is the Cal. 6R35, which has a reduced vibration frequency and an extended power reserve. While accuracy is adequate, it would be great to see a higher vibration frequency and longer power reserve in the future. Automatic (Cal. 6R35). 24 jewels. 21,600 vibrations per hour. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. SS case (diameter 40.5mm, thickness 13.2mm). 200m water resistant. 159,500 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Seiko Watch Customer Service Tel. 0120-061-012


Deputy Editor-in-Chief Suzuki Yukiya's recommendations for "Watches you can buy for under 30 yen"


Tissot Chemin des Tourelles 39mm

 Swiss watches are experiencing price hikes that are unstoppable due to a combination of factors, including global inflation caused by the backlash from global monetary easing amid the COVID-30 pandemic and rising energy and resource prices due to Russia's war in Ukraine.最高 のNaturally, the number of watches that fit the theme of "wristwatches" is limited.

 What's noteworthy is that the theme this time isn't simply "a watch that can be purchased for under 30 yen," but "the best watch that can be purchased for under 30 yen." In other words, in addition to the upper price limit, there is also the condition "the best."

 The criteria for what constitutes the "best watch" will vary from person to person, but after carefully considering what the "best watch" is for me, I came to the conclusion that it is the quality of the exterior, the reliability of the movement, and a good balance between the two.

 As a result, the first choice was the Tissot Chemin des Tourelles 39mm. Furthermore, a model with a stainless steel bracelet, which is more versatile, was preferable. This "wider range" includes not only the weather, season, and location in which the watch is used, but also the formal and informal occasions in which the watch is worn. Unlike a leather strap, a stainless steel bracelet can be worn in the rain or midsummer without worrying about water droplets or sweat. Furthermore, since the popularity of so-called "luxury sports watches," leather straps are no longer necessarily required, even in formal settings; metal bracelets, depending on the design, can also be worn without any problems.

 This Chemin des Tourelles features long, thin bar indexes and dot-shaped minute markers, and the dial, indexes, and second hand all curve gently outwards. Even the sapphire crystal that covers the dial is domed, so the first impression you get from looking at the face of the watch is that it has a strong classical feel.

Photograph by Eiichi Okuyama
This watch features a classic design, including a domed sapphire crystal, but also incorporates sporty elements, making it suitable for a variety of occasions.

 On the other hand, the model with a gray dial and sunray finish, when paired with a stainless steel bracelet, exudes a sophisticated look with a sporty, even modern feel. This exquisite balance of classic and modern elements is what makes this watch so versatile, suitable for both formal and informal occasions. Of course, the compact, agile case size of 39mm in diameter and 11.22mm thick, neither too large nor too small, also undoubtedly contributes greatly to this.

 Another key feature is the Powermatic 80 movement, a cutting-edge automatic movement based on the Caliber 2824-2 made by ETA, a subsidiary of the Swatch Group. Its name comes from its 80-hour power reserve. It also features a Nivachron balance spring, which is highly resistant to magnetism and temperature changes, and a free-sprung balance without a regulator, meaning that shocks won't shift the regulator and affect accuracy.

 This model combines a high-quality exterior with a reliable movement and is equipped with a stainless steel bracelet, and is priced at 118,800 yen (including tax), which is significantly less than the 300,000 yen price tag.最高 のIf not a "wristwatch," what else could you call it?

Tissot Chemin des Tourelles 39mm Ref. T139.807.11.061.00
In addition to the gray dial shown in the photo, blue and silver dials are also available. Furthermore, you can choose between stainless steel and leather straps. Automatic movement (Cal. Powermatic 80). 23 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 80 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 39mm, thickness 11.22mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. 127,600 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Tissot Tel. 03-6254-5321


Seiko "King Seiko" Ref.SDKS015

Swiss watches are not the only candidates for the "best watches you can buy for under 30 yen." There are also watches made by Japanese watchmakers that are worthy of mention, with an excellent balance between the exterior and the movement inside.

 That brand is Seiko's top brand, King Seiko. Looking back at history, King Seiko first appeared in 1961, the year after Grand Seiko was born, a brand that is now an independent global brand and attracts a great deal of attention in Europe and the United States.

 Grand Seiko and King Seiko were launched around the same time, but their directions were clearly different from the start. From the start, Grand Seiko pursued the ultimate precision comparable to Swiss watches and constantly developed and designed its own movements, while most King Seiko watches were equipped with movements that were based on existing mass-produced movements but with improved performance.

 Historically, King Seiko designs have focused on compactness and thinness, even in terms of exterior design. Thus, the aim was not to create the "highest quality comparable to Swiss watches" for both the exterior and the movements inside, but rather to create the best mass-produced products, a sign of King Seiko's conscience during the period when mechanical watches were becoming more and more popular. Unfortunately, with the rise of quartz watches, King Seiko was discontinued, but it reappeared in watch history as a limited edition model released in 2021. Then, in the following year, 22, it made a spectacular comeback as a regular model with a diameter of 37mm.

 The King Seiko featured here as "the best wristwatch you can buy for under 300,000 yen" is a 39mm diameter model that was released in March 2011 and has a slightly extended power reserve from the current approximately 70 hours to approximately 72 hours (approximately 3 days). As proof of this, the "3 DAYS" marking has been added to the previous "AUTOMATIC" at 6 o'clock on the dial.

The new movement, Cal. 6R55, is now installed in King Seiko watches. It uses a compact Magic Lever automatic winding mechanism.

 My personal recommendation is the ivory dial model Ref. SDKS015, which can be worn in a wider variety of situations. Its simplicity and elegance make it suitable for both formal and informal occasions. Furthermore, upon closer inspection of the dial, you'll notice a checkered hairline finish underneath. This "trick" keeps the King Seiko design, which may at first glance seem nostalgic, from looking dated and, in fact, contemporary.

 To experience the "great ordinariness" of King Seiko, you need only look to King Seiko, the epitome of the best mass-produced products.

Seiko "King Seiko" Ref.SDKS015
King Seiko also offers a wide variety of dials and straps, so you'll be able to choose one that suits your taste. Automatic (Cal. 6R55). 24 jewels. 21,600 vibrations per hour. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 39mm, thickness 11.9mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. 231,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Seiko Watch Customer Service Tel. 0120-061-012


Yuto Hosoda's recommended "Watches that can be purchased for under 30 yen"


① Junghans "Max Bill by Junghans Automatic"

 Due to inflation caused by economic growth in other countries, a weak yen, and rising raw material costs, it is now rare to find a watch that can be purchased for less than 30 yen. However, perhaps because German watchmaking has lower labor costs than Swiss watches, there are still many attractive watches in this price range.

 Among them, I recommend the Junghans Max Bill by Junghans Automatic. The design by Bauhaus master Max Bill is, needless to say, outstanding, and I have been wearing it for a long time, but I never get tired of it, even after all these years.

 The "hand-wound" model with a 34mm diameter case and manual winding mechanism is also hard to pass up, but if I were to recommend one to someone, the automatic 38mm diameter model would probably be a step ahead in terms of ease of use.

 The appeal of Max Bill is that there are a wide variety of dial colors and straps/bracelets to choose from, allowing you to find the one you like. Personally, I recommend the Ref. 027 3400 02M with a black dial and Milanese bracelet.

Junghans "Max Bill by Junghans Automatic" Ref. 027 3400 02M
This model combines a black dial with Arabic numeral indexes. The Max Bill is simple, yet has a wide variety of options, so you can enjoy choosing your favorite one. Automatic (Cal. J800.1). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 42 hours. Stainless steel case (38mm diameter). Water resistant to 50m. 246,400 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Europassion Tel. 03-5295-0411


② NOMOS Glashütte "Ludwig"

 Nomos Glashütte is another popular brand with watches under ¥30. Prices have been rising in recent years, but simple models equipped with the hand-wound Cal. Alpha movement are still within reach.

 In other words, you can choose from most basic collections such as the classic Tangente, Orion, and Tetra, but among them, Ludwig is my personal favorite.

 The dressy appearance, with its thin bezel, Roman numeral indexes, thin hands, and long lugs, gives it a high-end look that makes it hard to believe it costs 275,000 yen, and it will stimulate your desire to own it.

 Looking at the movement, the regulator is a triovis type and the kohaze is a retractable type. It's a wonderful geek watch that perfectly satisfies all the needs of watch lovers.

Nomos Glashütte "Ludwig" Ref. 201
Manual winding (Cal. Alpha). 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 43 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 35mm, thickness 6.3mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 275,000 yen (tax included for solid case).


Chieko Tsuruoka's recommended "Watches that can be purchased for under 30 yen"


① Grand Seiko "Heritage Collection" Ref. SBGX265

 Grand Seiko, which once had many models that could be purchased for 20 to 30 yen, has recently shifted to a higher price line, with fewer models priced under 30 yen. While it is true that Grand Seiko has increased its brand value and international competitiveness by raising its prices, it has now fallen far from its position as an affordable Japanese-made watch.

 Among these watches, there is one that can still be purchased for under 300,000 yen, is easy to handle even for a first luxury watch, and is packed with Grand Seiko characteristics. It is a model equipped with the 9F quartz movement Cal. 9F62 from the Heritage Collection.

 The 9F is Grand Seiko's "ultimate" quartz movement. Since its debut as a Grand Seiko exclusive in 1993, it has boasted high accuracy of ±10 seconds per year. Typical quartz movements are accurate to about ±20 seconds per month. Furthermore, the quartz movement, which has weaker torque than a mechanical watch, features thick, powerful hands, ensuring a stable second hand. This movement embodies Grand Seiko's history of breaking away from its image as a budget watch and establishing the luxury quartz watch genre. While maintaining its luxurious feel, it also reduces the effort required to set the time and the risk of damage from vibrations and shocks compared to a mechanical watch. Personally, I believe its ease of use makes it a fitting choice for the sub-30 yen price range, a "slightly better luxury watch."

 Furthermore, this watch comes in a compact package, measuring 37mm in diameter and 10mm thick. The thin, not-too-large case is comfortable to wear and contributes to an elegant look. The case and bracelet are finished with the high-quality Grand Seiko signature. The distortion-free polished surfaces, carefully brushed edges, and pronounced ridges give it value beyond its price. I remember that before Grand Seiko achieved its current position, it had a rather understated impression. However, the exterior, including the finish and dial quality, was of a high level, and I wondered why they didn't promote it more effectively. This tendency still persists when looking at advertising visuals, so to truly appreciate the watch's appeal, I recommend picking it up in person at a shop.

Grand Seiko Heritage Collection

Grand Seiko "Heritage Collection" Ref. SBGX265
This simple Heritage Collection model features a 9F quartz movement, with only three hands and a date window. It also comes in black and silver dial variations, but my personal favorite is the blue one shown in the photo. Quartz movement (Cal. 9F62). Stainless steel case (37mm diameter, 10mm thick). 10 bar water resistance. 286,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Seiko Watch Customer Service (Grand Seiko) Tel. 0120-302-617


②Longines "Flagship Heritage"

 Longines offers interesting models that evoke the brand's history, including reproduction watches. They recreate the designs of classic timepieces while incorporating modern elements without losing the atmosphere, and this is sure to impress anyone who loves vintage watches, even if they're not particularly interested in the genre.

 Longines has a watch with a subtle design that evokes a vintage feel, available for under 30 yen: the Flagship Heritage. This model is part of the Heritage line, a lineage descended from one of Longines' first collections, launched in the late 1950s. The word "flagship" refers to the flagship that carries the flag of the fleet commander-in-chief. For this reason, the case back of this collection is adorned with a medallion of a caravel, its emblem.

Longines Flagship Heritage

The case back features a gold medallion on a navy background. While see-through cases are becoming more common these days regardless of price, it's nice that the retro feel is retained even on the case back.

 This model features a classic style with a not-too-large 38.5mm case, two hands, and a small second hand. Combined with elements such as a domed dial and dauphine hands, it skillfully incorporates the atmosphere of the 1950s and 1960s.

 Vintage-style designs and atmospheres have become increasingly popular recently, with many companies aggressively entering the market. In this context, simple, dressy three-hand watches are difficult to differentiate from other brands. Adding too much individuality to the design can detract from the vintage or dressy feel, while being too simple can make it difficult to express the brand's unique character. Furthermore, because the functionality is minimal, the quality of the dial and hands is directly reflected in the appearance, and this quality tends to be proportional to the price. Looking at this watch, which overcomes the challenge of lacking individuality and offers high quality at a price range of under 300,000 yen, it's easy to see why Longines stands out in the vintage-style watch category.

Longines Flagship Heritage

Longines "Flagship Heritage" Ref. L4.795.4.78.2
This flagship Heritage watch is simple yet displays Longines' masterful design skills. Available in silver and with a black dial, it's also available in black. Automatic (Cal. L615). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 42 hours. Stainless steel case (38.5mm diameter, 10mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. 286,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Longines Tel. 03-6254-7350


Yosuke Ohashi's recommended "Watches that can be purchased for under 30 yen"


① Tissot "Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph"

 Luxury sports watches are all the rage these days. Among the "luxury sports" watches, there's no other chronograph model that can be purchased for under 30 yen that is more than the Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph.

 The first thing that really appeals to me about this watch is the luxury sports watch design mentioned earlier. The case and bracelet are one piece, a design that remains immensely popular in the watch industry.

 Its appeal lies in its versatile positioning, which means that it can be worn in formal settings despite its sporty look! That's what I think. Regardless, the angular, massive feel of this watch that says "It's made of metal!" is sure to captivate anyone who picks it up. That's what I like about it!

 Additionally, the metal surface finish used on the case and bracelet is stunning, with chamfered corners expertly polished to a fine finish that will leave you mesmerized if you gaze upon it closely.

 The second thing that really appeals to me is that it's equipped with the classic chronograph movement, Cal. A05.H31, which is based on the Cal. ETA7750 series. It's great to be able to get a movement from this family for under 300,000 yen. Another great thing about this movement is that it has a power reserve of approximately 60 hours. So, enjoy the movement of the hands on the subdial and listen closely to the sound of the movement! This is a pleasure that can only be enjoyed with a mechanical chronograph.

 So, if you were to splurge on a limited budget and choose just one luxury watch, I think this would be the one. Anyway, if you want a square chronograph, this is it!

Impression Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph

Tissot "Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph" Ref. T137.427.11.011.01
Automatic movement (Cal. A05.H31). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42mm, thickness 14.5mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 287,100 yen (tax included).


② Orient Star "M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase"

 I want a watch with a moon phase mechanism that displays the age of the moon using a moon depicted on a disc. I really want one.

 Let me tell you why I absolutely want one. Just looking at the disk, which resembles the moon floating in the night sky, makes you feel the history of watchmaking. It makes you think of modern Europe, where various mechanisms related to watches first came into being. It really does evoke the romance of history!

 There are some fantastic quartz-powered moonphase watches out there, but I want something mechanical, something with a mainspring and gears that reminds me of a mechanical watch.

 That's where Orient Star's M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase comes in.

 This watch features the moon phase mechanism I was looking for, a dial with a power reserve display, and above all, the classic look with Roman numerals as the indexes.

 Orient Star's watches boast high quality, yet are surprisingly reasonably priced. The suggested retail price for the M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase is 198,000 yen (tax included). It's the kind of watch you'd want to get if you get your bonus.

Orient Star "M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase" Ref. RK-AY0101S
This model, part of the "M Collections" launched in 2023, is named after M45, also known as the Pleiades, an open star cluster in the constellation Taurus. Automatic movement (Cal. F7M65). 22 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 50 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 41mm, thickness 13.8mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Priced at 198,000 yen (tax included).


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