The Life of a Watch Enthusiast FH: "I was captivated by the charm of watches and couldn't escape from this bottomless pit."

2024.03.11

Everyone has their own reasons for collecting watches and how they are enjoyed. Mr. FH, who became passionate about watches as an object of intellectual pursuit, eventually began to share the insights he had accumulated with his family. Whenever a special occasion came up, he would give them a watch befitting the occasion. The F family has deepened their bond through watches. Eventually, the first watch his son chose for himself as an adult was the same one his father had chosen in his youth. We visited Mr. F for the first time in eight years and traced the journey of his rich family as reflected in his collection.

FH-san
A practicing physician living in the Kansai region, he has been collecting watches for nearly 30 years. His childhood experiences with stopwatches led him to focus on chronographs. His first watch was a Pasha 38mm chronograph. He carefully selects watches based on his extensive knowledge and treasures them. He adheres to the policy of "acquiring new watches and never letting them go."
Photographer: Takafumi Okuda
Photographs by Takafumi Okuda
Tomoyo Takai: Interview and text
Text by Tomoyo Takai
Edited by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2023 issue of Kronos Japan]


"Buying a watch is a turning point in life, so I never let it go."

1815 Chronograph, Chronograph Reference 5170

In 2022, FH and his wife celebrated their 30th wedding anniversary. Their two sons have also become doctors. The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph and the Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 5170 are fitting symbols of F. and his son, who have been doctors for three generations. They are typical "doctor's chronographs," featuring a pulsometer for measuring pulse rate and subdials that omit the 12-hour counter. F. secretly hopes that one day, father and son will be able to talk about their merits.

"Watches are bought for memories, and memories are something you leave behind." This is how FH described his watch philosophy in this feature in the March 2015 issue (No. 57) of Chronos Japan. With extensive knowledge of watches and a mindset that is exemplary of a watch enthusiast, FH is also a long-time friend of our editor-in-chief. Eight years later, we had the opportunity to follow up on his story.

 Mr. F is a doctor who inherited the clinic established by his father. He was involved from its inception and developed a love for watches once the business was on track. He eventually invested his intelligence and financial resources to build up a fine collection centered on chronographs. He has also used his accumulated knowledge to serve his family, gifting them with appropriate watches for each milestone, adding a touch of elegance to their family history. Two of his most iconic pieces are the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph, with its quintessential "doctor's chronograph" design, and the Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 5170. He gave the former to his father to celebrate his 80th birthday, and kept the latter for himself. He also dreams of passing these pieces on to his two sons, who were medical students at the time.

Luminor Chrono, Luminor Marina Militare Amerigo Vespucci

Two Panerai watches that once fueled Mr. F's interest in watches. (Left) The "Luminor Chrono" equipped with the El Primero-based Cal. 400Z arrived about a year and a half after he ordered it in 2000. The watch Mr. F got was the so-called "D series," with indexes in 0.5-minute increments. (Right) The manual-winding "Luminor Marina Militare Amerigo Vespucci" has the serial number of one of 300 pieces worldwide and an image of the sailing ship "Amerigo Vespucci" engraved on the case back.

 Mr. F has collected watches with a strong passion. He has always maintained the same stance of "never letting go of the watches I buy." So, if you look at Mr. F's portfolio, you can trace his watch-related life.

 In his late 30s, in the prime of his working life, Mr. F. began his journey into the world of watches with Cartier, but it was Panerai that drew him deeper into the world. He was captivated by the Luminor Chrono, released in 2000, which still featured the El Primero movement. However, when he finally managed to secure a reservation, it was about a year and a half away. It is easy to imagine how long that time must have felt to Mr. F. at the time. Looking to settle his nerves with another Panerai, he ended up purchasing the Luminor Marina Militare Amerigo Vespucci, a rare model that has now become a collector's item. The choice of these two watches is proof of the discerning eye Mr. F. possessed from the start. However, Mr. F. says:

"It was during this period that I bought and read watch magazines more than any other timepiece, and as a result, I became obsessed with the allure of watches and found myself trapped in a bottomless pit."

Mayu, Trick Automatic, Octa Power Reserve

The three watches were purchased under the advice of Toru Uene, president of Kamine, a long-established watch and jewelry store in Kobe. He acquired the Mayu soon after H. Moser & Cie. arrived in Japan. From the early Parmigiani Fleurier collection, he purchased the Toric Automatic, a platinum watch with a distinctive double gadroon bezel. From FP Journe, he purchased the Octa Power Reserve. Mr. F has been keeping an eye on François-Paul Journe since the Opus 1 era, and has been visiting the Minami-Aoyama boutique since it first opened.

 His overflowing intellectual curiosity was embraced by Toru Uene, president of Kamine, a long-established watch and jewelry store in Kobe. Uene is also one of the pioneers who has promoted the introduction of independent brands to Japan. This encounter broadened Mr. F's watch life. His collection became more diverse, and he deepened his friendships with brands and users at customer seminars. Mr. F looks back on it this way:

"FP Journe, Parmigiani Fleurier, and H. Moser & Cie. These are brands I purchased when Kamine first started carrying them. At the time, none of them were well known, and their future prospects were uncertain. There were many independent brands that emerged and then disappeared around the same time. I was worried about whether I would be able to maintain them in the long term. However, all three brands have grown significantly."

 All of these brands have now established an unshakable reputation. Trusting Uemine's keen insight, Mr. F has since started to buy almost all of his watches from Kamine.

Cartier Tortue Power Reserve, Lange 1, Luminor Chrono

These watches are the starting point in the watch lives of Mr. F, his father, and his son Mr. Y. All three have purchased their watches from Kamine, and the relationship with the store spans three generations. Mr. F purchased the Cartier Tortue Power Reserve from the Cartier CPCP collection, limited to 150 pieces worldwide. The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 is a pink gold model purchased by Mr. F's father when he was the previous president of Kamine. Mr. F, who is strict about precious metals, praised it, saying, "Lange's pink gold from this era is not too red, so it's good." Mr. Y chose the successor model to the Panerai Luminor Chrono, which captivated his father.

 Mr. F's friendship with Mr. Uegene led to his father, who began to love watches at Mr. F's recommendation, and to Kamine's previous president. This is exemplified by the A. Lange & Söhne "Lange 1." Mr. F's father became a doctor during the heyday of German medicine and had a deep affection for Germany. It was this model that Mr. F's father purchased from the previous president at Kamine shortly after the brand was introduced.

 Mr. F also cultivated a love of watches in his sons. During this interview, we had the opportunity to speak with his second son, Mr. Y. Mr. Y was a medical student at the time and is now an independent doctor. When asked about the watch he is most attached to, he mentioned the Luminor Chrono, released in 2021. "My father bought it for me when I marked the turning point in my life when I went from being a resident to a specialist. I wore it for the first time on the lottery day for the hospital where I was going to enter the specialist program, and with my left arm, I was able to win the lottery for my first choice, so it's my lucky item."

Credor, Royal Oak Chronograph, Fastback GT Modena

The three models reflect the sensibilities of three generations of Mr. F and his family. The diamond-set Credor platinum model was worn by Mr. F's father on special occasions such as medical association ceremonies. Mr. F acquired the Royal Oak Chronograph, which was just revamped in 2022, surprisingly quickly. Mr. F, who loves chronographs, seems to be disappointed that the 30-minute counter no longer moves in a step-like fashion due to the adoption of the Cal. 4401. He praises the fit. Mr. Y, who is in his 20s, wears a Panerai for semi-formal occasions, an Apple Watch at work, and a Gorilla Fastback GT Modena on his days off.

 When Mr. F was thinking of giving Y a watch, he told her, "Anything within my budget is fine." After browsing the Kamine store, Mr. Y chose the same Luminor Chrono that his father wore in his younger days. Mr. Y later visited Kamine again and bought his first watch with the money he had saved from his part-time job. He chose an automatic model from Gorilla, a brand that arrived in Japan in 2018. Having watched his father, Mr. Y will likely also lead a rich life with watches.

Annual Calendar Regulator 5235, Calatrava 7120

Mr. F and his wife celebrated their 25th wedding anniversary with white gold watches, which have a silver-like color. Mr. F chose the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Regulator 5235. The Patek Philippe Advanced Research Cal. 31-260 REG QA movement features a silicon escapement and balance spring. His wife chose the hand-wound Calatrava 7120. The ivory dial with guilloched decoration and white gold set with diamonds create a simple yet elegant look.

 Mr. F and his wife have successfully raised their sons to adulthood. Even now, they continue to add watches to their collections to mark milestones in their marriage. For their 25th wedding anniversary, they both chose white gold models from Patek Philippe, with a color scheme reminiscent of their silver wedding anniversary. Mr. F has an Annual Calendar Regulator, while his wife has a Calatrava. For their 30th wedding anniversary in 2022, they celebrated with a Patek Philippe World Time Flyback Chronograph and a Cartier Coussin de Cartier, both of which were new models released that year.

 He loved watches and cherished the irreplaceable time he spent with his family. In today's busy world where we are often pressed for time, this happiness seems even more precious. I am grateful for the opportunity to follow in Mr. F's footsteps.

World Time Flyback Chronograph 5935A, Coussin de Cartier

In 2022, they celebrated their 30th wedding anniversary by pairing the watches released that year. The Patek Philippe World Time Flyback Chronograph 5935A is a much-talked-about model that features the Caliber CH 28-520 HU, which combines world time and flyback chronograph functions, in a stainless steel case for the first time. Mr. F presented his wife with a Coussin de Cartier watch, showcasing Cartier's cutting-edge jewelry techniques, along with a ring from the high jewelry collection "Reflection," which he had admired for 30 years.


Portrait of an Iconic Piece A. Lange & Söhne / 1815

http://www.webchronos.net/iconic/17124/
The clock and the clock that became the starting point for Kamine's CEO, Toru Uemoto

http://www.webchronos.net/features/32509/
The Life of a Watch Enthusiast HY: "It all started with the Rolex Submariner."

http://www.webchronos.net/features/109487/