The Life of a Watch Lover NT: "When I was in elementary school, the crown mark on Rolex watches looked like a treasure to me."

FEATURES Magazine article

2024.03.16

omega ZENITH Panerai Blancpain Bvlgari

"When I look at the watch enthusiast special feature, everyone has some amazing watches. I wonder if my collection will be enough..." After exchanging greetings, NT seemed worried and embarrassed. No, not at all! What impressed me as a true watch enthusiast was his many vintage chronographs. Including these, he owns around 200 watches, and I was surprised to learn that he is passionate about exploring the beauty of straps. N taught me the joy of going one step beyond collecting.

NT-san
He is 58 years old and runs a real estate company in central Tokyo. He has admired watches since he was a child, but was never a dedicated watch enthusiast. After working as a salaryman for 20 years, he founded his own company and began collecting his favorite watches. He follows the policy of not buying watches for display, but watches to wear, and has acquired a wide range of watches, from dress watches to sports watches and antiques. He is known on Instagram and Twitter under the handle "The Real Estate Agent Who Loves Watches."

Photo by Yu Mitamura
Photographs by Yu Mitamura
Shigeru Sugawara: Interview and writing
Text by Shigeru Sugawara
Edited by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2023 issue of Kronos Japan]

"Watches are meant to be worn and enjoyed. A single strap can definitely improve the look."

Mr. N, who appeared for the photoshoot with his beloved Mercedes-AMG GTC, is wearing an original model of Zenith's earliest automatic chronograph, the El Primero, made in 1969 or 1970. What's more, it's the popular A385 type, a perfect reproduction of the distinctive case and gradated brown dial that has been revived. It's a watch with great taste, typical of Mr. N, who loves vintage chronographs. The custom strap also matches the watch beautifully.

　Mr. N greeted us with a large number of watches lined up on a table in his office. He may be a watch enthusiast, but my first impression was that he must be a die-hard watch enthusiast. Captivated by the overwhelming number of vintage chronographs, I felt like a customer in a specialty store looking for a watch.

"I've bought about 100 watches in the last three years or so during the COVID-3 pandemic," says Mr. N, whose story is impressive, but these are just a part of his collection. This watch enthusiast has a different story to vintage chronographs, and it dates back to his childhood.

"I've admired adult watches since I was little. When I was in elementary school, I saw a manga about a gold Rolex watch and the crown logo on it looked like a treasure and made a strong impression on me. I've always liked symbols, and the same goes for the Volkswagen VW logo on the bakery bus."

Mr. N, who says "Bvlgari should be more highly regarded," wears the slim and sophisticated Octo Finissimo. On the right is a limited edition model created in collaboration with world-renowned architect Kazuyo Sejima, featuring a mirror-effect sapphire crystal dial. On the left is the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic, commemorating the 10th anniversary of Octo Finissimo. The dial, based on the original sketch drawn by Fabrizio Bonamassa Stigliani, is truly unique.

　When he was in high school, he bought himself a Casio digital watch. Later, he wanted to compete in something more powerful like a triathlete, so when he was a university student, he bought a Seiko Triathlete. For Mr. N, digital sports watches, which symbolized "1980s cool," were very appealing.

"But then, on my university campus, I saw students from wealthy families wearing Rolex watches. I thought it was cool and admired them. After I started working, I wanted a cooler watch, so at the age of 24, I bought an Omega Seamaster 300. It was a quartz watch, though."

Fitted with long crocodile straps with bases made by Matsushita An, a watch strap workshop, these chronographs evoke the excitement of 1960s car racing. Their movements are also legendary. (From right) The Enicar Sherpagraph (1962) is powered by the Valjoux 72. The Omega Speedmaster fourth-generation model (1966) is powered by the equally renowned Caliber 321. The Heuer Autavia Ref. 2446 (1960s) also features a Valjoux 72. On the far left, another Heuer chronograph is a rare model known as the "TYPE 4," designed for the former West German Air Force. The Valjoux 230 movement, equipped with a flyback function, was also used in the Breguet Type XX of the same era.

　His love for Omega, which began with the Seamaster 300, continues to this day. Mr. N also shared another story.

"When I changed jobs in my 30s, someone at the company I was working for was wearing a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control. I thought that was a good company, so I decided to join."

　I was impressed that there were such reasons for changing jobs. He himself acquired the brand's popular model, the Master Geographic. The 1990s, when mechanical movements made a comeback and the Swiss watch industry regained its vitality, was also a period of rapid growth for Jaeger-LeCoultre. The Master Geographic, equipped with a unique world time function, was a masterpiece that represented the era.

During the COVID-3 pandemic, he was unable to train and continued working remotely, so he relied on information from watch magazines and the internet to collect pre- and post-war vintage chronographs. Once he started collecting, he picked them up in one fell swoop, and in about three years his collection reached about 100 pieces. "I don't look for precision in these watches. My goal is to wear a strap that suits each one and make them look cool," says N with a laugh. It's also impressive that he is so knowledgeable about each model that he can instantly answer detailed specifications.

　In the 90s, Panerai was the next watch to move Mr. N. He was captivated by the brand's unprecedented, powerful and sporty design, which had military origins. He researched the brand on the internet, which was just beginning to become popular at the time, and visited watch shops to check them out, which piqued his interest. When he founded his own real estate company at the age of 39, the first thing he bought was a Panerai.

"At the time, I would buy about one affordable watch a year, costing around 300,000 to 400,000 yen, but I wasn't a watch collector," he recalls.

Since becoming interested in Panerai in the late 1990s, he has acquired 33 watches. The most recent model is the Radiomir Bronzo, released in 2022. Its bronze case, the first to be used outside of the Submersible, makes it all the more refreshing. Mr. N immediately ordered a strap called "74" from Matsushitaan, where artisans handcraft a replica of the strap that came with a historic Panerai watch supplied to the Italian Navy in the 1940s. This vintage-processed tanned leather strap gives the modern model a look reminiscent of the original.

　As he entered his 40s and his work life became busier, he began to go to the gym and train hard.

"Now I've come to like tough watches. I like the Speedmaster, Omega's signature chronograph, and the Seamaster 300, a full-fledged diver's watch. If I could only take one watch to a desert island, it would probably be the Seamaster. Both have their own unique character, unlike any other similar model, which is great."

　Mr. N owns 19 Omega Speedmasters, including rare third- and fourth-generation models from the 1960s associated with NASA's Apollo program, as well as modern luxury models crafted in distinctive Moonshine Gold and Sedna Gold. He has read all the books on the Speedmaster and seems to enjoy talking in detail about his favorite Speedmaster from his youth.

He has owned a variety of Speedmaster models, from vintage to current models. (From the right) Mr. N praises the current Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Master Chronometer in Sedna Gold for its flawless precision. The third-generation model from the 1960s is paired with a retro 1950s mesh bracelet, reminiscent of the original Speedmaster developed during the car racing era. The 2019 Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition model, which features a laser-engraved image of Buzz Aldrin stepping onto the moon at the 9 o'clock position, and the current model, a modern take on the fourth-generation Moonwatch in Moonshine Gold, are also masterpieces of outstanding precision and quality.

　One might think that Mr. N's collection is dominated by sporty, tough watches like this Speedmaster, but that's not the case. He also owns several Blancpain Leman and Villeret watches, which are dressy and elegant. He has also recently acquired stylish models with innovative modern designs, such as a special chronograph released by Bulgari to commemorate the 10th anniversary of the Octo Finissimo, and a limited edition model created in collaboration with architect Kazuyo Sejima. What these all have in common is their thinness. Since he typically wears a suit every day, ease of wear is also a key factor. He has consistently maintained the belief that "watches are meant to be used, and he doesn't buy watches just for show."

　Mr. N's interest also turned to methods for making watches look cool.

"I like straps. Straps affect the look of a watch. The relationship between the watch body and strap is like the wheel and tire of a car. If they don't match, it won't look good. Changing the strap can make a watch look much cooler."

There are also quite a few models not to be missed by enthusiasts of historic chronograph movements. On the right is a Tissot chronograph from the 1960s. Its three-subdial, hand-wound movement is Lemania's Caliber 1280, famously the basis for the Caliber 861 used in the Omega Speedmaster of the same era. In the center is a 1940s model from the original Lemania. Its movement is the Caliber 15TL, a representative pre-war Lemania movement. On the left is a Lemania from the 1950s. It is equipped with the Caliber 27CH-C12, also well-known among vintage chronograph enthusiasts. This renowned movement is said to be the basis for the famous Caliber 321 used in the Speedmaster. Even in terms of movement, Mr. N's connection to the Speedmaster is apparent.

　The vast collection of vintage chronographs mentioned at the beginning could be called an example of how straps can enhance a watch's appearance. Mr. N has always had an interest in antique watches, and wants to cherish valuable pieces even if they are old. He is passionate about creating a beautiful look with straps of his own choosing. "Antique watches just look old-fashioned if they're fitted with ordinary black straps. These good old chronographs don't look attractive either," he says, and we couldn't agree more.

　To highlight chronographs made before and after the war, Mr. N carefully considered details such as the color, material, and stitching of the straps to suit each individual watch, just like a tailor who tailors the perfect suit to suit the client's physique and preferences. Mr. N actually commissions the production of his straps from Matsushitaan, a watch strap workshop that specializes in custom straps. He has complete confidence in the craftsmen's handcrafted work, which is sure to match Mr. N's imagination.

Speaking of vintage chronographs, Minerva is the object of enthusiasts' adoration. All four were acquired at reasonable prices. The two on the right are models from the 1930s. With their small diameter cases and stylish movable lugs, they are a rare design that is hard to find even in the antique watch market. The two on the left are models from the 1940s, and are quite standard in design. However, they have been given a stylish makeover with custom straps, of course. The appeal of the Minerva is its Caliber 13-20CH manual-winding chronograph with two subdials. It is a legendary in-house movement that is only available from Minerva. All are in good condition, and the push buttons operate smoothly. They have a special charm that is different from modern Minervas.

　My favorite is the long, crocodile strap known as the Bundstrap. I attach it to vintage chronographs from Omega, Heuer, Enicar, and other brands that evoke the heyday of motorsports, and enjoy the powerful, masculine look it gives off.

"This type of strap became famous when Paul Newman wore it on his Rolex Daytona, but it also looks great on the Enicar Sherpagraph, a favorite of Formula One champion Jim Clark."

Blancpain's elegant dress watches are also available. He says he likes their simple, high-quality feel. He says they help create the impression of someone casually wearing a fine watch in a business setting. On the top right is the "Leman Triple Calendar Moon Phase," a limited edition model released in 1995 to commemorate the brand's 260th anniversary. On the bottom right is the "Villeret Double Window Chronograph." Both are fitted with lightweight French calfskin straps, giving them a stylish look that's different from the original. The "Leman Ultra Slim" on the left is the 270th anniversary model released in 2005. This model features an ultra-thin case and a sturdy crocodile strap, creating a different atmosphere.

　The vintage chronograph collection includes a wide selection of masterpieces from select brands, including Omega and Heuer, Minerva from the 30s to 40s, Excelsior Park from the 40s to 60s, Lemania from the 40s to 50s, and Zenith from 69. It's truly a selection for the discerning visitor.

　N, a self-confessed workout fanatic, has been unable to go to the gym as often as he would like due to the COVID-6 pandemic, and as a result, he has become passionate about collecting these watches and pursuing beauty through custom straps. When we asked him about his vision for the future, he gave us the unexpected answer: "I now have about 200 watches in total. Once the six watches I'm waiting for delivery arrive, I think I'll call it a day." Could this really be his true feelings? It seems unlikely that such passion for watches would fade so easily...

Adding a Swiss Excelsior Park vintage chronograph to your collection requires a certain level of expertise. Renowned for its chronographs and supplying its own movements to other brands, Excelsior Park is a legendary brand that closed its doors in the 1980s. The two watches on the right, featuring two subdials with tachymeter scales, feature different dial colors and are deadstock from the 1940s. The brown straps add a stylish touch. Each model is powered by the Caliber 4. The 1950s model with a yellow strap is equipped with the Caliber 4-68. And the 1960s model with a perforated black leather strap is equipped with the Caliber 40 and features three subdials. Each is a masterpiece sure to capture the hearts of enthusiasts.

Omega's PR representative carefully selects recommendations from popular models! Number 1 is the Speedmaster. What's in second place? - Men's Edition -