Recommendations for diving watch maintenance and inspection. Proper after-sales maintenance for tools that tend to be overused.

2024.03.15

Not only divers who use them in the harsh environment of diving, but even users who have no connection to diving tend to abuse diver's watches due to their high level of trust in their waterproof performance. But are there actually any correct maintenance intervals or handling methods specific to diver's watches?

Diver's watch

Masatomo Yoshie: Photographer
Photographs by Masanori Yoshie
Interview and writing by Hosoda Yuto (this magazine)
Text by Yuto Hosoda(Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2021 issue of Kronos Japan]


How companies are making diver's watches last longer

 Many people wonder how many dives a diver's watch needs before it needs an overhaul. However, when writing this article, we contacted several manufacturers, but all of them simply replied, "It depends on the circumstances, so we can't say for sure." A watch's water resistance is guaranteed by a gasket that prevents water from seeping in through gaps in the case, but this is influenced by factors such as frequency of use and even daily storage conditions. Each manufacturer's response is understandable. So, in the absence of any guidelines, how should a diver's watch be cared for?

 In fact, the basic care is the same for both diver's watches and waterproof watches. No matter how waterproof a watch is, leaving sweat on it or storing it in a hot and humid place will still damage the gaskets. After use, you should wipe it with a dry towel and store it in a well-ventilated place. If you own a diver's watch and actually dive, you have no choice but to pay attention to how to prevent wear on the gaskets on a daily basis and perform regular maintenance.


Crown gasket, which is prone to wear

Damasco "DSUB1"

Damasco "DSUB1"
The case is made of submarine steel, the same material used in submarines. This material is highly corrosion-resistant, hard, and elastic. It also does not retain residual magnetism, making it an ideal material for a diver's watch case. Automatic movement (Cal. ETA2824-2). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 38 hours. Submarine steel case (diameter 43mm, thickness 12.9mm). Water resistant to 300m. Price: 291,500 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Brains Tel. 03-3510-7711

 Of all the gaskets used in watches, the crown is one that is most susceptible to wear depending on how the watch is used. This is because the crown is pulled out frequently to wind the mainspring, adjust the time and date, etc. To protect this gasket, which is prone to wear, Germany's Damasco has taken a unique approach. Their diver's watch, the DSUB1, uses a waterproofing mechanism known as a "gasket system" for the crown and pushers.

Damasco's "Gasket System"

Damasco's "gasket system." The green is the gasket, and the orange is the "Damasco lubrication cell." The space between the two gaskets is filled with oil, which reduces friction when the gaskets contract. In addition, the oil and water pressure compress the gaskets underwater, providing a certain level of water resistance even without screwing in the crown.

 This creates a space filled with lubricant between the two gaskets, reducing friction when they are pressed together. This naturally minimizes wear on the gaskets, as well. Additionally, in situations where water pressure is applied, the combined pressure of water and lubricant compresses the gaskets, ensuring water resistance even without screwing in the crown. This gasket system is also incorporated into the pushers, meaning the Damascus chronograph can be operated underwater.

Three-piece case with screw-down back

The three-piece case has a screw-down back cover. The middle case and back cover are threaded, and a gasket is inserted between them and crushed to increase airtightness. If this gasket deteriorates over time, the watch will no longer perform as expected, so some brands recommend having the watch tested for water resistance before diving.


Be careful with removable tubes

 There's one more area around the crown where maintenance is directly related to water resistance: the removable tube. In the past, diver's watches had brazed or welded tubes to prevent water from seeping in. However, as the quality of gaskets improved and became more consistent, removable tubes could still be used to achieve water resistance. Given that the tubes on the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea, which is water resistant to 3900 meters, are replaceable, there should be no issues with water resistance. The biggest benefit of having removable tubes is improved maintenance. If a tube is damaged, for example by hitting the watch against a rock, a welded one would require rewelding or, in the worst case, replacement, but a removable tube can be easily replaced.

 But does this mean that the benefits of a one-piece tube have disappeared? Not at all. The more gaskets there are, the greater the risk of water intrusion as the watch deteriorates over time. For this reason, many brands recognize that brazing is essential for the crown tubes of professional diver's watches. Citizen, one of the first to comply with the 2018 ISO 6425 standard, welds the tubes on all of its diver's watches.

Damascus crown

Damasco crowns are designed so that the base of the winding stem is movable. When the crown is subjected to an impact, it breaks and absorbs the force. As a result, no damage is transmitted to the tube. Damasco crown tubes are removable rather than welded, but it seems that they decided that replacing the tube or the winding stem is less time-consuming and cost-effective. This system conveys the rational design philosophy that is typical of German manufacturers.

 In addition, in Damascus, the base of the winding stem is movable to prevent damage to the tube when the crown is hit. This part breaks to absorb the impact. The crown protector used in Panerai's Luminor series also protects the crown itself from impact. It is thought that this mechanism was originally developed to avoid patents for screw-down crowns, but its advantages remain significant even now, approximately 80 years after its first appearance.


Maintaining the unidirectional rotating bezel

 The unidirectional rotating bezel, an essential part of a diver's watch, is also said to require regular maintenance. Whether it is a standard leaf spring type or the type used by Rolex, which uses ball bearings and stoppers, if dust, dirt, or sand from diving accumulates on the bezel, it will not rotate properly.

Panerai Luminor series crown protector

The crown protector used in the Panerai Luminor series (above) and its patent document (below). When lever 2 on the protector is flipped up, protrusion 7 presses against crown 3, pressing in the gasket. It first appeared in the 1940s, but was patented in 55.

Patent document for crown protector used in Panerai's "Luminor" series

Panerai Luminor Marina e-Steel™

Panerai Luminor Marina e-Steel™
Panerai takes an active stance towards environmental protection. The case and crown protector are made of e-Steel™, an alloy composed of recycled materials. Automatic winding (Cal. P. 9010). 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. e-Steel™ case (diameter 44 mm, thickness 15.45 mm). Water resistant to 300 m. (Inquiries) Officine Panerai Tel. 0120-18-7110

 Damasco's unidirectional rotating bezels are also very well thought out. Take the way the bezel is attached. While a typical rotating bezel is attached by press-fitting, Damasco rotating bezels, including the DSUB1 shown in the photo, are secured in place with a C-ring, regardless of the model. The C-ring fits into a groove on the dial side, and its protrusion then fits into a groove on the bezel side. This makes it less likely to come off due to impact than a press-fit bezel, and because this method allows for a gasket to be placed around the edge of the head, there is no need to worry about dust getting inside the bezel.

Damascus "DSUB1" with the unidirectional rotating bezel removed

A picture of the unidirectional rotating bezel removed from the Damasco "DSUB1." There is a gasket on the edge of the head to prevent dust and water from getting in, so it is unlikely that the feel of turning will deteriorate with use. The bezel is attached by fitting the C-ring in the foreground of the photo onto the head, and then hooking the bezel onto it. The ceramic bezel ring is actually screwed in.

Damascene patent drawing

Damascus patent drawing. The outer periphery of the bezel ring (11) and the inner periphery of the bezel (3) are threaded and secured by screwing. The bezel is attached using a C-ring (9). It fits into the groove (4), and its protrusion hooks into the groove (5). The ceramic ball bearing (6) and stopper (8) prevent the bezel from rotating in the opposite direction.

 Furthermore, the reverse rotation prevention mechanism does not use the classic leaf spring method, but instead uses ceramic ball bearings in three places and a single diagonally cut stopper. With the leaf spring method, the protrusions on the leaf spring catch on the grooves in the bezel to prevent reverse rotation, so the leaf spring itself wears out over many years of use. However, with the Damascus method, the ball bearing that rotates the bezel is made of ceramic, so it does not wear out. With this method, the only parts that wear out are the spring that moves the bearing and stopper in and out.

The back of the rotating bezel

The back of the rotating bezel. There are 60 holes engraved into which the stoppers catch at each notch, producing a click. The thin groove visible on the inside is for fitting a C-ring. The edge of the rotating bezel presses into the gasket attached to the case, making it difficult for dust and dirt to get into the rotating bezel. There will likely be little change in the feel of turning it.

Ceramic ball bearing and stopper, patent drawing

A close-up of the ceramic ball bearing and stopper that move the rotating bezel (left), and a patent diagram of the same mechanism (right). In the patent diagram, 6 is the ball bearing, and below that, 7 is the spring that moves the ball bearing in and out. The stopper is cut out at an angle, and is pushed in and retracted when the bezel rotates forward, but when the bezel is rotated backward, the hole in the bezel catches on the step.


Maintenance is essential for diver's watches, which you entrust your life to.

 As you can see, even diver's watches are gradually becoming less frequent in terms of maintenance. However, if you don't always wash your watch with fresh water after diving, the stainless steel will corrode and the gaskets will deteriorate. Using a diver's watch for diving is essentially entrusting your life to the watch, so you can't afford for anything to happen. This is why it's essential to check the waterproofing before diving and to have it overhauled regularly. While there are special mechanisms that help extend the life of your watch, it's best to think of them merely as a way to reduce the likelihood of risks occurring while diving.


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