A deep explanation of how to distinguish a good watch. How to appraise a high-quality watch <Materials>

When you look at watch-related media, including social media and this magazine, you'll always see new and attractive models being featured. However, while news about watches is on the rise, there remains a lack of information about why a particular watch is good. So, what made a particular watch seem good? This time, we'd like to expand on our popular "ABCs of How to Look at a Watch" in this magazine and bring you topics that will allow you to look at watches in more depth.

A deep explanation of how to distinguish a good watch. How to judge a high-quality watch <Dial Edition>

http://www.webchronos.net/features/110623/

A deep explanation of how to distinguish a good watch. How to appraise a high-quality watch <Index Edition>

http://www.webchronos.net/features/110788/

A deep explanation of how to distinguish a good watch. How to judge a high-quality watch (hands edition)

http://www.webchronos.net/features/110865/

The various materials used in watches

Ceramics and sapphire crystal are sometimes referred to as "new materials" for watch exteriors. It is extremely difficult not only to simply use these materials, but also to put them together seamlessly as a watch. Hublot has been tackling this challenge. Currently, the company not only makes extensive use of colored sapphire crystal for the exterior, but has also begun to use vibrant reds and blues, which are considered difficult to achieve even with ceramic, as well as paler colors. Hublot's skill is in skillfully incorporating unique materials into its watches. We will look at four distinctive models as the most obvious examples of this.

Hublot Works with Ceramics and Sapphire Crystal

　Although it may no longer be as exciting as it once was, new materials are still a big draw for luxury watch manufacturers. In terms of quantity and quality, Hublot is one of the most proactive manufacturers. Not only are they experimenting with new materials like sapphire crystal and ceramics, but they're also experimenting with dials, all of which are highly refined.

　The underlying reason the company began working with new materials was its complex case structure. Generally, assembling many parts to create an exterior makes it more susceptible to rust. However, Hublot successfully overcame this disadvantage by combining new materials other than stainless steel with the Big Bang collection, which has a "sandwich case," and instead turned it into a design advantage. The "Art of Fusion" concept, which combined various materials as proposed by then-CEO Jean-Claude Biver, was a highly sophisticated combination of aesthetics and practicality.

　By using new materials, Hublot continued to evolve its unique sandwich case construction, as exemplified by the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Green SAXEM and the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire.

　The former uses SAXEM, a green color previously thought impossible with sapphire crystal. By mixing rare earth elements and chromium with aluminum oxide, the main component of sapphire crystal, they succeeded in achieving a vibrant green. The latter is also a new color of sapphire crystal, made by mixing aluminum oxide with chromium. As a testament to their rarity, the limited editions are quite limited at 100 and 50 pieces, respectively.

　However, what's most noteworthy about these two watches is the case structure, rather than the materials. As the close-up photos of the two models show, there are no gaskets on the bezel or middle case for waterproofing. They may be glued, but I believe that the waterproofing is essentially achieved simply by the interlocking of the exterior parts. Hublot has accumulated technical know-how to make sapphire crystal cases waterproof, and now all of its watches are made of sapphire crystal. The water resistance of 50m or 30m is due to the high precision of the processing.

The Big Bang Integrated Sky Blue Ceramic is another model that evokes Hublot's evolution. Made from ceramic, it deliberately uses a neutral color that is difficult to achieve, and is used on the entire exterior. The corners are carefully crafted to evoke Hublot's sense of style. The edges are sharp where high precision is required, but are deliberately slightly rounded elsewhere. The screws that secure the bezel are also surrounded by metal sleeves, eliminating the risk of them cracking the ceramic bezel. Hublot's strength lies not only in the materials, but also in the way they have tweaked the exterior structure.

　Another attempt is the "Classic Fusion Gold Crystal Ceramic." This is made by crystallizing precipitated gold within crystal. In addition, a clear lacquer is applied to it, making it possible to create a completely flat surface. By combining the black concept, which Hublot specializes in, with the unique material of gold crystal, a beauty unlike any other is achieved. Hublot's approach to materials is clearly visible.