What makes a "good watch" from the perspective of a watch repair technician? How to assess a high-quality watch

As a technique for appraising high-quality watches, we have previously introduced how to distinguish a good watch from the perspectives of the dial, indexes, hands, materials, and bracelet/buckle. This time, we would like to explore the question, "What makes a good watch?" from the perspective of watch repair.

A deep explanation of how to distinguish a good watch. How to judge a high-quality watch <Dial Edition>

http://www.webchronos.net/features/110623/

A deep explanation of how to distinguish a good watch. How to appraise a high-quality watch <Index Edition>

http://www.webchronos.net/features/110788/

A deep explanation of how to distinguish a good watch. How to judge a high-quality watch (hands edition)

http://www.webchronos.net/features/110865/

A deep explanation of how to distinguish a good watch. How to appraise a high-quality watch <Materials>

http://www.webchronos.net/features/111231/

A deep explanation of how to distinguish a good watch. How to appraise a high-quality watch (Bracelet and Buckle Edition)

http://www.webchronos.net/features/111459/

The criteria for selecting a "good watch" from the perspective of repair

When we asked ourselves, "What makes a good watch?" we received some interesting answers from experienced technicians who maintain and repair watches. Watchmakers don't just "wear and use" watches; they can also disassemble them, find any defects, repair them, and return them to working order. From their perspective, a good watch doesn't simply have to be made of well-made parts or be of high quality.

　So what are the specific elements that make a watch a "good one"? The premise is that all parts should ideally be able to be maintained in good condition for a long period of time while also being easy to disassemble and assemble. We will introduce the exterior parts, which are the theme of this article, in detail.

　First, the case. Regardless of the design or material, the key to maintaining its beauty is its structure. The more components a watch has, the more difficult it is to maintain water resistance, which can lead to rust, so it is preferable to have a case that maintains airtightness with fewer components. In recent years, non-metallic cases made of carbon and ceramics have become more common, and their quality has improved, making them less likely to crack or become cloudy when washed.

　Next, the dial is preferably one that will not deteriorate even with long-term use. It seems that surfaces that are not only plated but also lacquered tend to be more durable. The zodiac feet that are fixed to the movement are always thicker, and the same can be said for the indexes, which can be expected to be more shock-resistant if they are typeset rather than glued. The hands are parts that are inserted and removed when disassembling, so it is desirable that the rivets do not loosen with repeated use. These are points to consider when actually handling the parts.

Case

　The case is required to protect the dial and movement inside and maintain airtightness. Its natural enemy is moisture, and it is especially important to prevent rust when it comes to metal. Even if the case itself is made of titanium, which is resistant to rust, the screws that secure the bezel and case back are often made of materials that are prone to rust. After understanding the characteristics of the material, it is also important to remove dirt such as oil and grime.

bracelet

　There are many different types of bracelets that have been used for a long time, regardless of price range. The materials used and the way the links are connected to each other have a significant impact on usability and durability. In particular, with the recent popularity of luxury sports watches, attention has been increasingly focused on the bracelet itself, and many brands are working hard to improve their quality.

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　What is required of a watch dial is that it is beautiful and can maintain its condition for a long time even when exposed to external light. Dial finishes vary widely, but many are colored by plating using chemical reactions or by spraying paint. Those made from natural materials such as MOP and lacquer are prone to cracking when subjected to impact, so care must be taken when using them.