A deep explanation of how to distinguish a good watch. How to appraise a high-quality watch (Bracelet and Buckle Edition)

When you look at watch-related media, including social media and this magazine, you'll always see new and attractive models being featured. However, while news about watches is on the rise, there remains a lack of information about why a particular watch is good. So, what made a particular watch seem good? This time, we'd like to expand on our popular "ABCs of How to Look at a Watch" in this magazine and bring you topics that will allow you to look at watches in more depth.

A deep explanation of how to distinguish a good watch. How to judge a high-quality watch <Dial Edition>

http://www.webchronos.net/features/110623/

A deep explanation of how to distinguish a good watch. How to appraise a high-quality watch <Index Edition>

http://www.webchronos.net/features/110788/

A deep explanation of how to distinguish a good watch. How to judge a high-quality watch (hands edition)

http://www.webchronos.net/features/110865/

A deep explanation of how to distinguish a good watch. How to appraise a high-quality watch <Materials>

http://www.webchronos.net/features/111231/

A good watch as seen through its bracelet and buckle

　We've covered the criteria for a good bracelet many times in this magazine. If your watch is light and small, it doesn't matter what kind of bracelet you pair it with. However, if your watch is large and heavy, you need to give it careful consideration. There should be adequate play on both sides, it shouldn't pinch hair, and the weight should be balanced. The five examples listed here are excellent, but the fit ultimately comes down to the buyer's preference. What's good for everyone isn't necessarily best for you.

bracelet

　The quality of the bracelet has also clearly improved, with the clearance between the case and the bow tube narrowed and the play around the crown reduced. The reason for this evolution is, of course, the increased precision of the workmanship, but the increased weight of the watch is also a factor.

　If a watch was small and light, a simple bracelet would suffice. This is why the Gay & Frair bracelet, made by wrapping a single piece of wood, was able to function without any problems. However, as sapphire crystal crystals became more common and cases became larger and heavier, bracelets were forced to evolve. As a result, bracelets began to be carved from solid wood, and screws were used instead of adjustment pins and rings. This detail became common in models in the 50 yen range, and is now not uncommon even on watches in the 30 yen range.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph has a bracelet that matches its elaborate exterior. The bracelet structure has not changed in the last 20 years, but thanks to improved processing precision, the left and right play has been reduced. Also, despite its angular shape, it feels comfortable against the skin. There is no fine adjustment function, but this is handled by small links.

The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 bracelet is quite standard. However, by widening the bracelet relative to the size of the watch, the balance between the weight of the watch and the bracelet has been improved. Also, by shortening the links, it fits better on the wrist. The deliberately left-right play is a unique feature of Japanese bracelets, not just this model.

　Furthermore, thanks to improved processing precision, manufacturers are finally able to control the amount of play between the left and right sides of their bracelets. This means that not only can manufacturers create bracelets that are more durable, but they can also add their own unique touch to them.

　The criteria for choosing a bracelet have remained the same since ancient times. There should not be excessive play on either side. Also, there should not be too little play. Both of these can cause bracelets to break. It is also important that the edges are not too sharp so as not to pinch hair. And for heavy watches, choose a balanced, heavy bracelet. Smaller links provide a better fit, but are more likely to rattle.

　However, the impression of a watch with a bracelet will vary greatly depending on personal preference, so those who prefer a more precise fit should definitely check one out for themselves.

Rolex bracelets are understated but highly refined. The three-link Oyster bracelet lacks the smooth feel of the Jubilee bracelet, but its balance of left and right play and weight makes it suitable for a sports watch. Despite its simple structure, it feels so good thanks to high-precision processing and exceptional know-how.

Cartier now produces not only cases but also bracelets in-house. The bracelet of the Santos de Cartier, like that of IWC, can be easily adjusted to fit. It has a fairly complex structure, but as IWC, which is also part of the same group, has been using it for over 20 years, it seems to be highly reliable. The pins connecting the links are thick, so there is little play between the left and right sides.

What are the conditions for a "good strap" as seen from the strap making site?

"Just as a car cannot run without tires, a watch cannot be worn without a strap. A good watch requires a good strap," says Takashi Matsushita, president of watch strap workshop Matsushitaan. He is a genuine leather craftsman who has a shop and workshop in Tokyo that produces and sells straps made from high-quality leather and other materials.

When asked, "What makes a good strap?", he answered that it is only by combining the use of high-quality materials that he himself has selected with the skills to create something perfect that it can be completed to his satisfaction. Generally, leather straps are consumable items that are replaced after a certain amount of use, but if it is of high quality, it can be used for a long time. Furthermore, not only the leather itself, but also the strength of the core material and leather lining inside the strap, as well as the manufacturing process, such as using thick, break-resistant thread and hand-stitching, are factors that deeply affect usability and durability.

　Matsushitaan is a workshop that specializes in making custom watch straps. Depending on the order, the type of leather used, as well as the length, thickness, and hardness of the strap, will change, so the most important thing is to consider how well it will fit with the case. In addition to this, the strap must also be tailored to the thickness and shape of the wearer's wrist, and even the core material itself must be curved to ensure comfort. Specifically, the shape of the case, including its thickness, the length of the lugs, and the position of the holes for the spring bars must all be considered, along with the weight balance when worn. This feeling, he says, is gained through experience and repeated daily trial and error. While this is an example of the ultimate strap, it offers a level of satisfaction that simply can't be found with generic straps.

buckle

　When choosing a watch with a bracelet, the buckle is even more important than the bracelet itself. If the length is not right, it will stick out from your wrist, and if it's too thick, it won't be usable for desk work. On the other hand, if it's too thin, it won't be able to support a heavy watch. While fine adjustment features can improve the fit, adding additional functions inevitably makes the buckle larger and heavier. Buckles have evolved over the past decade. Let's take a look at their main features with some excellent examples.

　As bracelets have evolved, so too have buckles, which are the fasteners. However, the only improvements seen in the 2000s were to carve out the metal to make them stronger. Another improvement was that the buckles, which were too long, have been shortened slightly.

　The biggest change came in the mid-10s, when fine-tuning features evolved to accommodate heavier watches and bracelets. While many manufacturers were reluctant to add fine-tuning features due to the increased cost and number of components, market demands spurred further advancements. Even Patek Philippe now offers fine-tuning features on its clasps.

　Rolex and Tudor are pioneers in buckles with fine adjustment functions. Rolex is more conservative, while Tudor is more innovative. However, both offer easy length adjustment and are not easily removable. Considering their functionality, their buckles are also quite compact. While the fit of a buckle is more a matter of personal preference than a bracelet, both buckles offer a package that appeals to everyone.

　Another attempt is the buckle built into the bracelet of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo. There have been buckles made thinner to improve the fit in the past, but this is the first time that one has been stored inside. It does not have a fine-tuning function, but it fits the wrist extremely well.

　However, just because a buckle has more features doesn't necessarily mean it's better. Just like with bracelets, make sure it fits properly. It's also a good idea to wipe it down after use to prevent rust and other issues.