Hands-on review of the "PR516 Chronograph"! A hand-wound chronograph packed with Tissot's conscience

This is a hands-on review of the mechanical model of the Tissot PR516 Chronograph. This is a new manual-winding chronograph model released in 2024. Based on a 1970s racing chronograph design and a new movement, this model combines retro charm with fun operation while remaining highly practical.

New manual-winding chronograph, Tissot "PR516 Chronograph"

　A manual-winding chronograph. What an appealing sound. For many watch enthusiasts, the term probably conjures up images of high-end models from prestigious brands, or vintage models from the 1940s, with their gracefully curved levers and bridges. These days, there are very few affordable manual-winding chronographs, especially when they are Swiss-made.

　Amid this, Tissot's "PR516 Chronograph" has been released as a new model for 2024. This reproduction of a racing chronograph from the 1970s not only reproduces its distinctive design, but also its drive system, namely, that of a manual-winding chronograph. Not only that, but its price tag, including tax, is less than 30 yen, and as the "PR" (Particularly Robust, Precision and Resistance) in the model name suggests, it offers excellent practicality, so it's sure to appeal to many people.

　The PR516 Chronograph is an affordable, practical hand-wound chronograph that truly embodies the package that watch enthusiasts have been waiting for. This time, we would like to provide a hands-on review of this highly anticipated model. It should be noted that while a quartz model of the PR516 Chronograph was also released at the same time, this review focuses on the mechanical model.

Retro color dial

　Let's start with the dial. The base black has a matte finish with a finely textured surface. There are no noticeable chips or bleeds on the white printed numbers on the inset dial or the logo at 12 o'clock. The finish is excellent.

　The inset dial has a 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock, a 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock, and a small seconds at 9 o'clock. The silver-colored border is engraved with a record-like pattern, enhancing the three-dimensional effect and preventing light reflection. Only the 30-minute counter incorporates a blue portion, which is a marker used to measure the five-minute rally time before the starting gun in car and yacht races.

　The bar-type indexes and the baton-shaped hour and minute hands, characteristic of the PR516, are coated with luminous paint. This not only improves visibility in the dark, but also provides excellent visibility in bright light, creating a striking contrast with the black dial. The three chronograph hands are all orange, giving the watch a sporty look and preventing confusion with the time display hands. The dial is covered by a box-shaped sapphire crystal. Its slight protrusion harmonizes with the retro design.

　The bezel, made of stainless steel with black PVD coating, is two-tone black and white. The white part features a pulsometer and the black part features a tachymeter. The white part is made of luminous paint, which glows in the dark. The top of the bezel is covered with mineral glass, giving it a glossy finish.

A voluminous cushion-shaped case

　The case is cushion-shaped, reminiscent of the 70s. The thickness of the case is almost constant from the center to the tip of the lugs, giving it a chunky, solid feel. The top and sides of the case are uniformly satin-finished, but polished chamfers add a touch of definition.

　Like a typical chronograph, the pushers are located at the 2 o'clock and 4 o'clock positions. Both have a simple shape and no unnecessary decorations, so they are less likely to catch on clothing. The crown is 7mm in diameter, which is a sufficient size for a manual-wound watch. The brand's initial "T" is embossed on the top of the crown.

　The bracelet is a triple-link type made up of semicircular links. The links on both sides have rounded edges, making them feel nice against the skin. The adjustment links are connected with a split pin. For durability, a screw-type system would be preferable, but considering the price range, this is understandable.

　The clasp is a double-lock type, typical of sports watches. It can be opened by flipping up the flip and pressing the push button. It doesn't have a luxurious feel, but it is simple and easy to use. Fine adjustments are made by inserting a spring bar into the hole on the side of the clasp.

　The watch employs an interchangeable system, allowing the bracelet to be detached from the case with a simple lever operation. While not currently available, if perforated leather straps and other options are made available in the future, the range of strap changes will likely expand.

A new movement that combines hobbyism and practicality

　When talking about this watch, one thing that cannot be left out is the new movement, Cal. A05.291. This is a manual-winding chronograph movement based on ETA's Cal. 7753 automatic chronograph movement. Incidentally, the Cal. 7753 has been modified from the more popular Cal. 7750's three-eye layout to a three-eye layout.

　Caliber A05.291 does more than simply eliminate the automatic winding mechanism. A stopwatch has been added to the mainspring, allowing you to know when it is fully wound. The winding feel has also been changed to a crisp, crisp feel that is more typical of a manual-winding watch, allowing you to enjoy a solid winding experience. When you turn the crown, you can see the retractable stopcock move up and down through the gap in the bridge.

　The specifications have also been updated to modern standards. The balance spring is now made of Nivachron™, which improves magnetic resistance, temperature resistance, and shock resistance, while also providing a long power reserve of approximately 68 hours. It has also been precisely adjusted using a laser to ensure consistent accuracy even when the winding level drops. Unlike automatic watches, which continue to wind when worn, hand-wound watches lose their winding level over time. This adjustment compensates for this weak point of hand-wound watches.

A solid feel like a sports watch

　The voluminous case design gives it a sense of weight, but the lack of an automatic winding rotor keeps the watch's thickness down, making it comfortable to wear. Considering that it is a mechanical chronograph, it is also suitable for daily use. The automatic Cal. 7750 series on which it is based uses a unidirectional winding rotor, so when worn, you often feel the whirring of the rotor as it spins freely. This is of course not the case with this manual-winding watch. Those who find the rotor spinning freely annoying will likely find it appealing.

　The shortness of each link of the bracelet also contributes to the comfortable fit. The edges of the links are rounded, so there is no irritation to the skin even when bending the wrist.

　The dial is vibrantly colored in black, silver, white, blue, and orange, yet remains highly legible. This is likely due to the contrast between function and color, such as the use of orange for the chronograph hands. The two-tone bezel is not simply a design element, but is also matched to the type of meter. The indexes and hands are coated with white luminous paint on a matte black background, providing excellent visibility.

　The chronograph is started and stopped with the push button at 2 o'clock and reset with the push button at 4 o'clock. It feels a little heavy, but there is a clear, crisp click, allowing you to operate it at the desired timing. When operating the chronograph off the wrist, the cushion-shaped case also makes it easy to hold. Even when starting and stopping repeatedly, the hands do not jump, and the stability is high.

The long-awaited, affordable manual-winding chronograph

　The PR516 Chronograph, a reproduction of a classic racing chronograph symbolizing the 1970s, not only faithfully reproduces the original but also offers the practicality of a modern watch. But that's not all it's appealing. It also signals a revival for the endangered genre of affordable Swiss-made hand-wound chronographs. Automatic winding is the overwhelming majority of mechanical watches today. Furthermore, advances in precision and long power reserves are being made across all price ranges. While this is a welcome development, this evolution has also inevitably resulted in fewer opportunities to touch the crown.

　Contrary to this trend, manual winding watches allow you to enjoy interacting with the machine. By taking the time to do it every morning, you can enjoy the joy of operating a watch. While it's a purely hobby-related activity that only certain people can understand, there is a strong demand from core enthusiasts for manual winding watches. Incidentally, this watch has a power reserve of approximately 68 hours, so it's no problem if you forget to wind it for two days or so. It's not uncommon for a high level of hobbyism to compromise practicality, but this model strikes a good balance.

　The chronograph is another mechanism that allows for a sense of enjoyment when operating it. A watch is a tool that visualizes the flow of time, and the flow of time cannot be controlled by human power. Therefore, the hands of a watch simply move in an orderly fashion. A chronograph allows the user to take the initiative and select any time from this. By measuring time or using a meter to measure heart rate or speed, you can experience the joy of operating a watch.

　Manual-winding chronographs have come to have a reputation for being delicate and luxurious. While they are a niche genre, they offer a unique appeal: the ability for the user to take an active role in the watch. To be honest, as an amateur, incorporating niche elements into a mid-range watch that is designed to sell a certain number of units seems like a big business risk. Even so, as a watch enthusiast, I am incredibly grateful to Tissot for releasing this watch into the world within a broadly accessible range.