A deep dive into Orient's watches. What are their appeals and noteworthy models?

2024.04.22

Orient is a popular brand offering high-quality watches at affordable prices. We will take a closer look at Orient watches, including the history of Orient watches as a manufacturer and the characteristics of each brand. We will also highlight noteworthy models from each brand.


The history of Orient

Orient is a Japanese watch brand that offers reasonably priced mechanical watches. Although its history is shorter than that of Seiko or Citizen, it has been in business for well over half a century.

If you're interested in Orient watches, first take a look at the brand's origins and the changes it has undergone in recent years.


The company began as an instrument manufacturer in 1950

The Orient brand was founded in 1950 as Tama Keiki Co., Ltd., its predecessor. It rented the factory of Toyo Tokei Seisakusho, which was located in Hino City, Tokyo.

Orient was founded on July 13, 1950 as Tama Keiki Co., Ltd. Initially, the company manufactured wristwatches in the former Hino factory of Toyo Watch Manufacturing Co., Ltd., located in Hino-cho, Minamitama-gun, Tokyo (now Hino City).

In the same year, they immediately released the mass-produced wristwatch "New Orient," which featured a movement designed during the time of Yoshida Watch Shop, the company's origins.

First Orient New Orient

Orient's first mass-produced wristwatch, the "New Orient," began production in 1950. It is equipped with a small hand-wound movement that was designed during the Yoshida Watch Shop era.

The following year, in 51, the company changed its name to "Orient Watch" and produced the first model of "Orient Star," which is also the brand name.

First generation Orient Star

The "Orient Star" was released in 1951, inspired by the image of a "shining star." The first model was equipped with the same pre-war movement as the "New Orient." The following year, in 52, it was replaced with a newly designed movement.

Since then, the company has released a wide variety of watches, including diver's watches, of which revival models are now available, and the uniquely designed "Orient Jaguar Focus."

However, in the 70s, Orient Watch, which mainly produced mechanical watches, was hit by the quartz crisis, and in the 90s, the company faced great difficulties.


Evolution through integration with Seiko Epson

Orient Watch fell into a difficult situation with the rise of quartz watches, but as of 2024, it has established itself and is popular with a wide range of people. What saved Orient Watch was its merger with Seiko Epson.

Six years after it was delisted in 2003, Orient Watch became a wholly owned subsidiary of Seiko Epson, and was then merged into Seiko Epson in 2017.

After the merger, the company returned to its roots, but set a direction for itself by leveraging Epson's technological capabilities in product development and branding. It's fair to say that the company has made great strides in both quality and individuality.


The appeal of Orient watches

Orient Watch's products have strengths that other domestic manufacturers don't have. We'll take a closer look at the changes that have taken place since the merger with Seiko Epson, and explain what makes the timepieces made by Orient Watch so appealing today.


A design that brings Oriental style to the forefront

The year after merging with Seiko Epson, Orient Watch began a full-scale rebranding. The company focused on pursuing unique themes and unique coloring, and decided on the direction of the two brands, "Orient" and "Orient Star."

In particular, the basic line, Orient, was rebranded to express individuality, drawing inspiration from past models. The company recognized its strength in unique designs, such as those seen in the Orient Perpetual Calendar from the 1960s.

Meanwhile, Orient Star was exploring strategies based on the concept of showing the future of mechanical watches.


Improved high-precision "46 series" movement

The core movement known as the "46 series" is synonymous with Orient watches. The 46 series movement, which appeared in 71, was designed to be more compact and thinner than the previous "L-type automatic winding" movements.

The 46 series movement, known for its durability and excellent winding efficiency, had long supported Orient Watch's watchmaking, but by the time of its merger with Seiko Epson in 2017, it was no longer a time-honored design.

Seiko Epson, which has strict standards for movement manufacturing, has revised its manufacturing process to improve the accuracy of the 46 series movement and achieve a thinner design. Furthermore, the 46 series movement, with its improved pin position on the baseplate, has also helped to enhance the skeleton model.

Orient Movement

The 46 series, which was born in 1971, is Orient's signature automatic movement. After merging with Seiko Epson, the finishing and precision were improved, and it is still used in many models today.


About the "Orient" and "Orient Star" brands

Orient Watch operates two brands: Orient Star and Orient. Each has its own unique position and characteristics, so if you're unsure which model to choose, it's important to remember the strengths of each brand.


Top brand "Orient Star"

Orient Star is a brand named after the original Orient Star, which was released in 1951 when the company changed its name to "Orient Watch." Aiming to create watches that are known as "shining stars," the brand offers high-quality models.

In 2023, the brand will launch the "M Collections," named after the stars in the Messier catalog. The lineup includes three types: M45 (Pleiades), M34 (Perseus), and M42 (Orion Nebula). This collection, worthy of the brand name, is proving to be extremely popular.

Orient Star is Orient Watch's top line. The list price increased with the price revision in January 2012. However, considering the quality and luxury, it can still be said to be reasonably priced. Even the most expensive men's watch model can be purchased for around 300,000 yen.


The accessible "Orient"

Orient is a basic line that is cheaper than Orient Star. For example, when looking at the crystal material, Orient Star uses domed sapphire glass, while some Orient watches use domed inorganic glass.

Orient's men's collection consists of the following five items:

Contemporary
・Classic
・スポーツ
・Revival
・iO customization

The watches are clearly categorized by feature, making it easy to find the watch you like.


Orient Star watches

Orient Star, which is positioned in the upper line, is known for developing high-quality and unique watches. Here we will introduce three watches that are worth checking out right now from the skeleton model and M Collection, which exude the unique character of Orient watches.


"Contemporary Collection Modern Skeleton" RK-AV0124G

The RK-AV0124G, released in March as the 2012 spring/summer model, is a "modern skeleton" watch in which the movement can be seen from the dial rather than the case back.

The champagne-colored dial has cutouts at the 2 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions, allowing the functional beauty of the Caliber F6F44 to be appreciated. The bezel is a yellow gold color that blends well with the dial.

The stainless steel case has a striking 41mm diameter. It features a power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock and a small second hand at 6 o'clock, making it a favorite among those looking for a mechanical watch.

Orient Star "Contemporary Collection Modern Skeleton" RK-AV0124G

Orient Star "Contemporary Collection Modern Skeleton" RK-AV0124G
Automatic movement (Cal. F6F44). 24 jewels. Power reserve approximately 50 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 41mm, thickness 12mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 106,700 yen (tax included).


"Classic Collection M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase" RK-AY0114A

From the M Collections, which launched in October 2011, we would like to first introduce the M45 (Pleiades) "RK-AY0114A," a fantastical model with a moon phase.

The dial of the RK-AY0114A depicts the moon reflected in Lake Tazawa in Akita Prefecture. The white mother-of-pearl that represents the lake's surface is finished in a green gradation.

Its clean design is also noteworthy compared to the skeleton model. The dial only features hands and indices, a power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock, and a moon phase at 6 o'clock. The black crocodile leather strap creates a sense of the tranquility of a moonlit night.

Orient "Classic Collection M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase" RK-AY0114A

Orient Star "Classic Collection M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase" RK-AY0114A
Automatic movement (Cal. F7M65). 22 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 50 hours. Stainless steel case (41mm diameter, 13.8mm thick). Water resistant to 5 bar. Orient Star official online store exclusive model. 236,500 yen (tax included).


"Sports Collection M42 Diver 1964 2nd Edition F6 Date 200m Titanium" RK-AU0701B

The "M Collections" also includes a diver's watch. As the name suggests, the "RK-AU0701B" is a modern reproduction of a 1964 diver's watch.

The "M42 Diver 1964 2nd Edition" series is based on Orient Watch's second diver's watch, the "Calendar Auto Orient."

The titanium used in the RK-AU0701 is lightweight and rust-resistant. This is a watch we recommend for those who prioritize a lightweight, comfortable fit and ease of maintenance. The case and bracelet are unified in gray tones, taking advantage of the titanium's vibrant color.

The simple black dial will blend in seamlessly not only with marine sports but also with everyday life.

Orient Star "Sports Collection M42 Diver 1964 2nd Edition F6 Date 200m Titanium" RK-AU0701B

Orient Star "Sports Collection M42 Diver 1964 2nd Edition F6 Date 200m Titanium" RK-AU0701B
Automatic movement (Cal. F6N47). 22 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 50 hours. Titanium case (diameter 41mm, thickness 14.3mm). Water resistant to 200m. Price: 187,000 yen (tax included).


Orient Watches

Orient's basic line of watches has a strong sense of the manufacturer's history. If you're looking for a special watch that's reasonably priced, take a look at the commemorative models and reproduction collections.


"Sports Collection Orient Mako" RN-AA0822L

The Orient Mako, part of the Sports Collection, is a vintage-inspired diver's line. The RN-AA0822L was released on April 18, 2024, to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the Orient Mako. It's a limited-edition model, with only 500 pieces available.

The RN-AA0822 features a blue dial inherited from the original Orient Mako. It features a wave pattern. The day and date displays are located at the 3 o'clock position, and Arabic numerals are used only in four places on the index.

It has many diver's watch design features, such as a screw-down crown and a unidirectional rotating bezel, but it is important to note that it is not an ISO-compliant diver's watch.

Orient "Sports Collection Orient Mako" RN-AA0822L

Orient "Revival Collection SK" RN-AA0B02R
Automatic (Cal. F6922). 22 jewels. Power reserve approximately 40 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 41.7mm, thickness 12.6mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. 36,300 yen (excluding tax). Limited to 1000 pieces in Japan.


"Revival Collection SK" RN-AA0B02R

As the name suggests, the Revival Collection is a collection of revivals of past models. The "SK RN-AA0B02R" is based on the popular 1970 model known as the "SK."

The case and bracelet are made of stainless steel, but with a matte finish that reduces shine. The asymmetrical bezel shape and the internal rotating bezel, among other features, faithfully reproduce the original design.

The dial design, finished in a gradation of wine red and black, will look great with a suit or chic outfit.

Orient "Revival Collection SK" RN-AA0B02R

Orient "Revival Collection SK" RN-AA0B02R
Automatic (Cal. F6922). 22 jewels. Power reserve approximately 40 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 41.7mm, thickness 12.6mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. 36,300 yen (excluding tax). Limited to 1000 pieces in Japan.


Enjoy a shining moment with an Orient watch

Orient and Orient Star are Japanese brands with a history spanning over 70 years. They faced difficulties at one point due to the effects of the quartz crisis, but after merging with Seiko Epson, they have made a comeback with their own unique line of watches.

Compare each lineup and find the Orient that's right for you. By picking up a timepiece that gives you a glimpse into the manufacturer's commitment and history, you're sure to find one that satisfies your needs.



Contact info: Orient Customer Service Center Tel. 042-847-3380

Reference site: Orient https://www.orient-watch.jp


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