The evolution of diver's watches. Are the unique features of diver's watches changing?

Since establishing a certain style in the 1950s, diver's watches have remained unchanged to this day. However, if you look closely at each individual part, you will see changes in the materials used and their functionality. But is this really an evolution? Let's explore the unique evolution of diver's watches.

Improved rotating bezel and bezel plate
Where improvements in scratch resistance and operability are headed

　To put it bluntly, the functions required of a diver's watch are limited to a time preselection function for reading the elapsed dive time and high-pressure water resistance. From that perspective alone, the basic form of the diver's watch was perfected in the mid-1950s, and to this day, no technological innovations have been incorporated. In the 60s, as saturation diving technology was established for deep technical diving and commercial diving, measures to expel helium mixtures were implemented as a stopgap measure, but this too was largely resolved by the 70s. The requirements for a diver's watch are by no means uncertain innovation, but rather a culmination of "stale technology."

　The main difference between the unique functions of a diver's watch and other additional mechanisms such as a chronograph or GMT is that there is almost no need to consider operability. The most obvious function, the rotating bezel, is to preset the start time of a dive; additional operation is absolutely impossible during a dive, and it must never move. The unidirectional rotation prevention mechanism is essentially just a security measure in case the bezel moves.

　So what improvements have modern diver's watches made to unidirectional rotating bezels? One is to prevent deterioration and damage to the bezel plate. Many early diver's watches used aluminum bezel plates that had been anodized. These were often black or blue, but either way, if the color fades over time, the contrast with the scale will decrease. Above all, since the print is on a flat surface, if the watch is hit, the scale itself will be scraped off and disappear. I only have beginner-level scuba diving experience, but the watch I wore during that time became more worn than I expected.

Omega Seamaster 300
The Seamaster 300 features a highly legible sandwich dial. Compared to the bronze gold model on the left, the case is slightly thinner. The bezel ring is made of aluminum. Automatic (Cal. 8912). 38 jewels. 25,200 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 41mm, thickness 13.85mm). Water resistant to 300m. 770,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Omega Customer Service Center Tel. 03-5952-4400

Omega Seamaster 300
Made with Omega's proprietary bronze-gold alloy. It ages slowly, revealing its natural beauty. The bezel ring is made of ceramic. Automatic (Cal. 8912). 38 jewels. 25,200 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Bronze-gold case (diameter 41mm, thickness 14.4mm). Water resistant to 300m. 1,364,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Omega Customer Service Center Tel. 03-5952-4400

　There were also examples, such as the early Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, where the surface of the bezel plate was covered with Plexiglas (i.e., the scale was actually printed on the back of the transparent bezel plate), but one can imagine the scratch resistance of a plastic bezel. The recent trend has been to use bezel plates made from hard materials and inlaid scales. The mainstream is ceramic bezel plates with inlays such as liquid metal. Since the bezel plate is pre-engraved and the scale itself is thick, there should be a considerable margin for scratch resistance.

　The ratchet structure itself has undergone changes in the anti-reverse rotation mechanism of the bezel itself. The one-way teeth on the back of the bezel remain the same as before, but the leaf spring that applies tension to the bezel and regulates the direction of rotation is increasingly being replaced with a ceramic ball. This is thought to be more to prevent the leaf spring from losing its function due to damage or sticking caused by corrosion, rather than to achieve smooth movement. In examples that more directly consider maintenance, we are now seeing bezels that are not fitted but are instead screwed in place.

　However, behind most of these improvements, the idea of ​​"virtual professional use" is apparent. It goes without saying that the distinctive style of diver's watches is highly compatible with street fashion, but if that's the case, then features such as the ceramic bezel plate and the rotating bezel structure, which now has a finer number of clicks and a more controlled movement, seem like over-spec in a different direction, unrelated to the demands of professional users. If we look at modern diver's watches solely in terms of the evolution of their details, will they end up being solid luxury watches?

Enhanced performance of extension functions
The latest buckle that allows for multi-stage adjustment

　If we consider the evolution of details incorporated into modern diver's watches in the context of luxury, the most iconic part is undoubtedly the extension buckle. By adding another link plate to a standard three-fold buckle, it is possible to increase the overall length of the bracelet. In the past, press-molded buckles with three fold buckles were the norm, and the length of the extension link was fixed. Fine adjustments were made by adjusting the position of the spring bar that secures the bracelet body to the buckle body.

　This changed dramatically when bracelets and buckles began to be made from solid steel. As a result, fine adjustment mechanisms were incorporated, which were not possible with buckles made simply from pressed sheet metal. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea shown in the photo features a multi-stage adjustable Rolex Glidelock Oysterlock clasp as well as a three-fold Fliplock extension link. The former allows for fine adjustment in 2mm increments up to 20mm (10 stages). Adding the latter further allows for a maximum extension of 26mm.

　However, as mentioned above, all functions of a diver's watch are pre-set before actual use, and the same goes for the extension mechanism. Ideally, you would simply tighten and adjust it while putting on a wetsuit. One reason is that the thickness of the wrist changes with water pressure (i.e., it becomes thinner due to pressure), so a soft material such as a rubber strap would make more sense to accommodate this. Considering this, the extension mechanism on a metal bracelet is particularly convenient for recreational divers who use their watch both on and off the job.

　If a diver's watch is to be considered a true professional tool, a simple, single function is desirable. In this respect, the equation "multiple functions = higher performance" simply does not hold true. Diver's watches will continue to become increasingly luxurious. And the higher the quality, the greater the divergence from the image one would expect of a professional tool. Modern diver's watches have evolved, and it is time to break free from the shackles of professional tool supremacy.

Luminous index variations
Improving the performance of luminous paint and the resurgence of tritium

　As modern diver's watches continue to increase their added value as luxury watches, it is becoming increasingly difficult to think of them as professional tools, with their high specs. This contrasts with the diving specialist COMEX and most of the diver's watches used by the military in the past, which did not even use spring bars, preferring instead to use fixed steel bars. The reason is simple: the more complex the parts, the greater the chance of breakage or malfunction.

　Luminous indexes strike a balance between advances in materials and required specifications. As specified by JIS and ISO, they must be legible from a distance of 25 cm even in dark places. To achieve this, high brightness and a long luminous duration are essential.

　Tritium was widely used from the 1960s, when the basics of diver's watches were established, through the 90s, but it was replaced by "N-Luminova," developed by the Japanese company Nemoto Specialty Chemicals in 93. Trademarked "Luminova" in Japan and known as "Super-Luminova" in Switzerland, this luminous paint is a "phosphorescent paint" that does not use a radioactive exciter to make the phosphor glow.

　Strontium aluminate, the phosphor itself, emits a very bright color when exposed to a strong light source, and continues to glow for several hours, gradually fading in brightness. Chromalight, a luminous paint developed exclusively by Rolex, has a luminous duration of approximately eight hours. Meanwhile, Micro Gaslight, which uses gasified tritium housed in a fluorescent tube, emits light without the need for a light source. Both have more than sufficient performance, and are expected to be used as design elements as well.