The Seiko Presage SARX121 is an excellent daily watch with no flaws in any aspect.

FEATURES Impression
2024.04.06

I had the opportunity to be one of the first to try on the new Seiko Presage. My first impression was "Grand Seiko trickle-down." It's an exceptionally superior industrial product, reconstructing within the framework of "Presage" what Seiko Watch has achieved in its highest-end Grand Seiko watches. The Presage is a perfect example of the technology and experience that Seiko has developed since Grand Seiko became an independent brand, and the result is a satisfying finish in every respect.

Seiko Presage

Text and photos by Shun Horiuchi
Text & Photographs by Shun Horiuchi
[Article published on January 6, 2024]


The new "Classic Series" has been added to the Seiko Presage line, which is known for its distinctive Japanese craftsmanship, including enamel and Arita ware.

 Seiko boasts Grand Seiko, an independent brand that has established a solid presence worldwide, and King Seiko, which has used Grand Seiko's success as a springboard to revive King Seiko as a luxury line sold at traditional Seiko boutiques and Seiko watch salons. The Presage series, developed as a mechanical watch brand in 2010, has served as a receptacle for these brands, showcasing a diverse range of styles, including the design-driven "Sharp Edged Series" and the "Style 60's," which features many models popular with watch enthusiasts. Among these, the newly added "Classic Series" models are incredibly well-balanced, "golden mean" watches.


Presage watches in the mid- to low-priced range show the manufacturer's true capabilities

Seiko Presage

Seiko "Presage Classic Series" Ref. SARX121
The newly added Classic Series lineup includes a plain three-hand date model and an open heart model. The three-hand date model comes in three dial colors: plain white, Sensaicha, and Arai-gaki, while the open heart model comes in two: plain white and black ink. The impression model is a three-hand model with a plain dial color. Automatic movement (Cal. 6R55). 24 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40.2mm, thickness 13mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 132,000 yen (tax included). Scheduled for release on Saturday, June 8th.

 At the beginning of this article, I described the SARX121 as "Grand Seiko's trickle-down." I'm not trying to get into economic theory here, and I certainly am not saying that the Presage is an economic underdog. What I'm trying to say is that Grand Seiko's technology and experience from its top-end lines have been poured into the Presage, and it has benefited greatly from that.

 Seiko watches offer a wide range of products, from high-end Grand Seiko watches to affordable mechanical watches like the Seiko 5 Sports. Presage, meanwhile, is a brand with strict price restrictions. Spending money on one component, for example, means spending less on others. This means cutting costs while improving quality—and above all, achieving balance—is key. So, what about this product? The movement is the Cal. 6R55, comparable to King Seiko's, the case is highly polished, and the hands are three-dimensional. The bracelet is the highlight, and the curved dial, with its silky texture and traditional Japanese colors, is a highlight. How are these details possible within the Presage price range? The answer lies in the fact that this watch is a well-crafted industrial product, and the balance it achieves at this level is a testament to Seiko's strength. Rather than simply admiring a Grand Seiko, experiencing this watch will help you appreciate Seiko's true capabilities.

 An automatic watch with three central hands and a date display like the SARX121 is a "basic of basics" that is in the lineup of almost every watch manufacturer. It is not an "unrivaled model" like the Nautilus, Royal Oak, or Cartier Tank. There are countless similar watches. Among them, there are probably some points where people wish the watch was a little more like this, and with every watch, there are probably some points that everyone would like. Since tastes, physiques, and usage patterns are all different, it is unlikely that a watch that is perfect for everyone is possible, but the SARX121 feels as close as possible to achieving that goal.

 Before listing the reasons, I'd like to first praise the game's packaging. It's almost miraculous that such a well-balanced design and detail have been achieved at a price of 132,000 yen. It would be impossible to achieve this price without mechanical production, eliminating human intervention as much as possible, but there are certainly some aspects that must be done by hand. Costs must be evenly distributed across all processes, from design to production planning, parts yield, and ease of assembly, and even including logistics and sales costs, it's amazing that they've managed to make a profit at this price.


Let's look at each part to see that it is well-balanced in all aspects.

 Let's take a look at all the different aspects of the car. First, let's look at the exterior.

 The case, which measures 40.2mm in diameter but feels slightly more compact than that, has a very conventional shape and few distinctive features. The only distinctive feature is the two-tiered bezel, but even that is only noticeable if you pay attention to it. The slightly plump case sides and bezel are well polished, with almost no irregularities in shape. The lugs are satin-finished only on the top, and the ridges between them are not crisp, so the difference in finish with the polished sides enhances that. One important point worth mentioning is that the case sides between the lugs and the top of the bow lug are also meticulously polished. Often in watches in this price range, such details are lacking in finish and simplified, but this watch is perfectly fine. Since these are areas that are visible when wearing the watch, I felt Seiko had paid close attention to them. The case is 13mm thick, which is a bit thick for a three-hand watch. When viewed from the side, the thickness is mainly noticeable on the case back. This is likely due in part to the use of a screw-down glass back. Thickness is an important factor that affects comfort and ease of use, and coupled with the well-made bracelet, I was able to wear it without any discomfort, even though I have thin arms.

The beautiful, plain white dial with a silky texture and excellent legibility, along with the well-polished alpha hands, makes it easy to read the time.

 The manufacturer describes the dial as having a "delicately stamped pattern with a silk-like texture," and the fine pressing creates a silk-like texture. Looking closely, one can see that it has a bombe shape that curves slightly outward, and the applied indexes around its periphery are not flat, but have a subtle curve that follows the dial. I found this very appealing. The date is located at the standard 3 o'clock position, and while the window has no outer frame, it has short hour indexes. I think that having the date display not stand out on the dial like this suits the design of this watch. The print of SEIKO PRESAGE AUTOMATIC 3DAYS, which appears to be pad printing, is sharp even on the silk-like texture.

 The font for "PRESAGE AUTOMATIC 3DAYS" is more consistent and delicate than Grand Seiko's "HI-BEAT" font, and I actually prefer it.

 One of the things that has improved dramatically from Seiko models of the past is the length of the hands. The tip of the hour hand is exactly at the inner edge of the index, the tip of the minute hand is curved but reaches the outer edge of the index, and beyond that is the elegant center second hand, which maintains its delicate slenderness while its tip curves toward the dial, as if it is piercing the slanted index on the faceplate. It's perfect. The design of the hour and minute hands is what's known as an alpha hand, and the second hand with its counterweight also makes a good impression. Considering costs, expensive hands cannot be used, so the watch is manufactured using a press method, but both the hour and minute hands are not flat but are curved to create a three-dimensional look, and the second hand's delicate slenderness makes up for its flatness.

Seiko Presage

There are probably many Seiko fans who sympathize with this "S" crown, which has now been removed from the Prospex. I'm no different.

 The crown is as expected by Seiko fans, with 24 relatively large, flat teeth and a raised "S," making it easy to set the hands. Considering the size and thickness of the watch, the crown size is appropriate.

 The highlight of this watch is the bracelet. The Rolex Jubilee bracelet is the most orthodox type of bracelet, but this model has one more row of links than the Jubilee bracelet, and the small size of the links and the moderate looseness make it feel similar to a rice bracelet when worn. The most distinctive feature is the shape of the links when viewed from the side, which could be described as bean-shaped. I never expected that the indentation on the inside would create such a smooth fit. The thickness is just right, and I really like it, along with the easy-to-operate buckle. However, this bean-shaped design would require more regular cleaning.

Seiko Presage

Along with the dial, the bracelet is another appealing feature of this watch. Its bean-shaped cross-section makes it extremely comfortable to wear.

 The movement is the Caliber 6R55, which beats at 6 vph. Its power reserve has been extended from the Caliber 6R35 to three days, or approximately 72 hours. This three-day power reserve guarantees that the watch will still be running on Monday morning, even if the weekend rolls around, making it particularly suitable for a watch expected to be used frequently in business settings. The movement measures 27.4mm in diameter and 4.95mm thick, standard dimensions for an automatic, three-hand movement. For more information, please refer to Seiko's website. The combination of Diashock, Magic Lever, and Spron technologies is called Trimatic. Those who regularly use Caliber 4R/6R movements will be well aware that the Magic Lever, in particular, is a highly efficient system designed for practical use. While this particular watch tended to run a little fast initially, it settled down after about two days, and after about a week of wear, it achieved a total of +8 seconds, demonstrating exceptional accuracy.

Seiko Presage

The 27.4mm movement visible through the glass back generally appears small compared to the 40.2mm diameter case, but perhaps due to the clever design of this watch, it doesn't look small at all. In fact, it got me thinking about why it looks so well-balanced.


The ideal form of a practical watch, arrived at after considering the question of "balance" in a watch.

Seiko Presage

Photo taken indoors in sunlight. Even though I have slim wrists, I don't feel that the 40.2mm case size is too large. I think it's a size that suits everyone. With a solid-color dial, stainless steel, and an all-black logo, it's a watch with almost no color saturation, so it blends in with almost any scene. It has a good fit and high visibility, so it's stress-free.

 To conclude, the Presage is a well-balanced, practical watch. While it's true that my first impression wasn't that great, the more I use it, the better my impression becomes. Whenever I look at the watch, there are no noticeable flaws, and it's easy to read, so it's stress-free. The more I use it, the more it becomes a part of me. Because it's not a limited edition, there's no fighting over it, which also makes it stress-free. I would recommend it to everyone without reservation.


Contact info: Seiko Watch Customer Service Tel. 0120-061-012


Seiko Presage introduces the "Classic Series," a new design series based on the motif of "beauty of utility."

http://www.webchronos.net/news/110883/
From Tradition to Innovation: Introducing the Appeal and Popular Models of Seiko Presage

http://www.webchronos.net/features/106654/
Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series Review: The Asanoha (hemp leaf) pattern, which celebrates career advancement, is perfect for business use!

http://www.webchronos.net/features/94179/