Keita Kitamura, who has been awarded one Michelin star in Paris for five consecutive years, has returned to Japan in triumph, aiming to reach the top. He has created a French gastronomy restaurant, "apothéose," that embodies his vision.
This specialty dish is layered with oil from Hokkaido's brand of chives, "Kita no Hana," Chinese yam, coriander root, marbled sea bream, lotus root grilled with rock salt, purple sea urchin, and chickweed, and finished with rice bouillon made with "Inochi no Ichi." The dish is exquisitely unified, with a wide variety of flavors, textures, and temperatures. The sea bream was provided by Mr. Masayoshi Tsuruya of "Tsuruichi," a fish shop in Akashi, thanks to a connection with "Les vents du large," a fish shop that helped us in Paris.
Photographs by Yu Mitamura
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
Many touching moments are engraved in my memory
Born in Shiga Prefecture in 1980. After graduating from Tsuji Ecole Culinaire Osaka Abeno, he studied under Yoshihiro Narisawa for eight years at La Napoule and Les Créations de Narisawa. In 2008, he moved to France, where he worked at renowned restaurants such as Pierre Gagnaire and Chez les Anges before becoming chef at Au Bon Accueil. He received one Michelin star at ERH for five consecutive years. He returned to Japan in 2011 and opened apothéose.
"Apothéose" is French for the highest honor, supreme glory, pinnacle, or magnificent blossoming. True to its name, the restaurant, which opened in November 2023, is located on the top floor of Toranomon Hills Station Tower. This was the answer given by Kitamura Keita after he had pondered whether to continue aiming for two Michelin stars in Paris or return to Japan and open a restaurant.
After taking several elevators to reach the restaurant, you first take a break in the apero space. Your hospitality begins with tea that has been carefully brewed over time. When the doors open, you enter the dining area, passing through a space between kitchens. Instead of the usual welcome plate on the table, there is an object that leads you to the first amuse-bouche, so you can look forward to it when you visit. "Apothéose" is dotted with numerous devices that make you want to call it a "gift" from Kitamura to his guests. The scents and sounds are also original and found nowhere else.
Even the specialties have a hidden surprise. When the pure white sauce is poured onto the elegant dish, a double circle is formed, creating a mesmerizing sight. The dish is mesmerizingly composed with a variety of tempos, yet it is naturally pleasant to eat. While you might think that the sea bream is the star of the dish, it is completed thanks to the bouillon made from Odawara's "Inochi no Ichi" brand of rice. Chef Kitamura is filled with respect for producers such as farmers, dairy farmers, and fishermen. This is why each small dish is packed with many stories.
Incidentally, this rice is served at the end of the course. "We wanted to have a hearty rice dish at the end, just like Japanese cuisine. We want you to enjoy the meat dish midway through the meal when you have room to breathe, and then immediately after that, a vegetable-based dish follows. This comes from French food culture and is a way of eating that is good for your body."
Spending time at "apothéose" is a time when you simultaneously feel the contradictory emotions of an extraordinary uplifting experience, yet a calm and fulfilling heart. Chef Kitamura is not only skilled and sensible, but also has a remarkable ability to capture people's hearts. This is why each and every element that makes up the cuisine and restaurant reaches the hearts of diners. After dinner, all guests will be cheering for the team led by Chef Kitamura.
apothéose
Toranomon, Minato-ku, Tokyo 2-6-2
Toranomon Hills Station Tower 49th floor (inside TOKYO NODE)
Tel.03-6811-2573
Closed Sundays and Mondays
17:30 AM – 23:00 PM (L.O. 19:30 PM)
Chef's choice course from 25,000 yen (12% service charge not included)
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