A quick look at Patek Philippe's new watches for 2024!

Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024 is a major event in the watch industry. At this festival, Patek Philippe will be unveiling a variety of new models, from the Grand Complication to the Nautilus and Golden Ellipse. All of these models are sure to inspire the desire to own one, but the biggest attraction will likely be the World Time Ref. 5330.

World Time Ref.5330

　A new generation of world time has been announced, which displays the date in sync with the time of the selected time zone, shown at 12 o'clock on the city ring. This model eliminates the need to adjust the date display when crossing time zones, as was previously necessary.

　This function is made possible by the new movement, Caliber 240 HU C, based on the Caliber 240 HU. The date module, comprised of 70 components, incorporates a patented central differential system consisting of two coaxial gears (star wheels) that controls the local date display. This means that each press of the pusher at 10 o'clock not only advances the city and 24-hour rings and the central hour hand by one hour, but also advances or retreats the date display as needed. While the mechanical structure is complex, it embodies Patek Philippe's creative philosophy of pursuing a practical and comfortable user experience.

　Also, for the first time in a Patek Philippe watch, a hammer-shaped central date hand with a red lacquered tip is used, made of clear glass, to ensure that the date hand, which has little movement, does not interfere with the legibility of the other information.

　The blue-gray opaline dial features a "carbon" pattern in the center, achieving both easy-to-read indication and an elegant appearance.

　This model is an addition to the current collection of the 5330 model, which was announced as a limited edition at the Watch Art Grand Exhibition (Tokyo 2023) held in Tokyo in June 2023.

Alarm Travel Time Ref.5520

　A new version has been added to the Alarm Travel Time, which was released in 2019. It features an 18K rose gold case with four white gold push button tubes, creating a two-tone design. The dial is a two-tone grey sunburst and anthracite finish, and features luminous anthracite white gold applied Arabic numerals and sword-shaped hour and minute hands.

　The Alarm Travel Time features a unique travel time mechanism that simultaneously displays the time in two different time zones and a classic gong that sounds the 24-hour alarm with a hammer. The automatic movement, Cal. AL 30-660 SC FUS, is equipped with four patents for alarm technology.

　The alarm time is displayed digitally in a double window at 12 o'clock and can be set in 15-minute increments in conjunction with the day/night indicator using the crown at 4 o'clock.

　The travel mechanism features two central hour hands, one for local time (solid) and the other for the time of origin (skeletonized). The travel time pushers at 8 and 10 o'clock are embossed with + and - signs and can be used to advance or reverse the local time in one-hour increments.

Grand Complication Ref. 5160/500

　　A rare handcrafted model in 18K rose gold has been released from Patek Philippe's Grand Complication series, which features a retrograde date display and perpetual calendar. The Ref. 5160/500 in 18K white gold was released in 2016, and this model is a reinterpretation of that previous model.

　The watch features an 18K rose gold case with hand-engraved spiral and vegetal motifs inspired by pocket watches in the Patek Philippe Museum.

　The silvery opaline dial also features a distinctive pattern in the center, which houses a retrograde date display, as well as windows for the moon phase, day of the week, month, and leap year. The white gold applied indexes feature black Breguet numerals, and together with the black hour and minute hands, the dial is not only classic but also highly legible.

　The movement is the automatic Caliber 26-330 S QR, based on the Caliber 26-330 SC introduced in 2019. Opening the cover reveals the movement, which, like the exterior, is adorned with details that will arouse your desire to own it, such as a 21K gold rotor engraved with Patek Philippe's iconic Calatrava cross and bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève.

Grand Complication Ref. 5236P

　This in-line perpetual calendar model was released in 2021. The large display windows showing the day of the week, date, and month are arranged in a single row, creating a clean design for a perpetual calendar. In addition to the in-line calendar, the watch also features a moon phase display coaxial with the small seconds at 6 o'clock, a leap year cycle at 4 o'clock, and a round window for the day/night display at 8 o'clock, but the design doesn't feel cluttered.

　Now, Patek Philippe has released a new version of this perpetual calendar with a rose gold opaline dial.

　The dial, which is said to be inspired by vintage Patek Philippe watches, features anthracite and white gold hour and minute hands and applied indexes.

　The entire case is hand-polished and discreetly set with a diamond at the 6 o'clock position, marking it as a platinum model.

　The movement is the Caliber 31 260 PS QL, a three-patented automatic movement. Based on the Caliber 31-260, it features an additional module protected by three patented technologies and a micro-rotor with enhanced winding power. The rotor is made of platinum, which has a higher specific gravity than gold.

　The movement can be viewed at any time through the transparent case back.

Complications Ref.5396

　The annual calendar developed by Patek Philippe is a mechanism that does not require manual advancement of the calendar as long as the watch is running, except for the last day of February. At the same time, it is also iconic in its style, with small windows for the day and month at 12 o'clock, the date at 6 o'clock, and a 24-hour subdial that is coaxial with the moon phase.

　The new model features this layout, but is housed in an 18K white gold case with a blue sunburst dial. The dial has a darker gradient toward the periphery, and the 11 baguette-cut diamonds on the indexes add a subtle sparkle to the piece. The powerful white gold dauphine-style hour and minute hands are reminiscent of Patek Philippe's authentic style and also contribute to excellent legibility.

　The movement is the automatic Cal. 26-330 S QA LU 24H. Previously, the collection used the Cal. 324 S QA LU 24H/303, but this time it is based on the Cal. 26-330, and its design, along with the 21K gold rotor, can be seen through the transparent case back.

Nautilus Flyback Chronograph Ref. 5980/60

　This new variation of the Nautilus features a flyback chronograph. Previously, this model was available in 18K rose gold or stainless steel cases, but this time it is available in 18K white gold.

　The strap, which matches the blue-gray opaline dial color, is noteworthy. At first glance, it looks like textile, but it's actually calfskin. The denim-patterned strap with white stitching gives the Nautilus Flyback Chronograph 5980/60 a casual image that was previously unrelated to it.

　The refreshing blue design of the chronograph could easily be seen as a bit too rough, but as you'd expect from Patek Philippe, the polished edges of the integrated lugs and the sides of the iconic "ears" really add to the luxurious feel.

　The coaxial 60-minute and 12-hour counters at 6 o'clock feature the Nautilus 40th anniversary font, and like the case, their frames are crafted from 18K white gold.

　Although it is not a limited edition model, it has an elaborate two-piece case, and given the recent popularity of the Nautilus, it is expected to be difficult to obtain.

Aquanaut Ref.5164

　The Aquanaut Travel Time model, 5164, is now available in white gold for the first time, with a blue-grey opaline dial featuring the iconic Aquanaut pattern.

　The Ref. 5164 is equipped with the automatic Cal. 26-330 SC FUS movement with a travel time display. The departure point and local time are displayed by the two hour hands on the dial. The hour hand can be independently operated using the push button on the case side at 9 o'clock. Small windows at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock display day and night. Combined with the pointer date at 6 o'clock, the dial design is excellent, with a variety of displays well-balanced. The date display is synchronized with local time.

　The composite band, which matches the dial color, is fitted with a patented white gold fold-over clasp.

　This is a watch that combines excellent visibility and ease of use.

Aquanaut Ref.5269

　The slightly smaller Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5269 model, equipped with the quartz Cal. E 23-250 S FUS 24H, has been joined by an 18K rose gold version. Without any gemstones, it features a simple and sophisticated appearance. The case stands out with its contrasting polished and satin finishes, emphasizing its contemporary, casual, and chic presence.

　The dual time zone Ref. 5269 features two hour hands on the dial, one showing the time at home and the other showing the time at home, and a discreet and practical adjustment system using the crown.

　The composite band, which matches the blue-gray opaline dial, is fitted with a patented folding buckle with four independent clasps for added security.

Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1

　The Ref. 5738, which has a larger case than the Golden Ellipse models, now has its first bracelet model added.

　While it may seem like a conventional chain bracelet, it is in fact a completely new bracelet that was developed after 15 years of development. Details have not been revealed at this time, but Patek Philippe says that it has "overcome the technical shortcomings of the previous version, particularly with regard to length adjustment."

　The bracelet has 363 parts, of which over 300 are links, and all of them are assembled by hand, and judging from the promotional images, it appears to be very flexible. The engraved buckle also has a three-stage fine adjustment mechanism for length adjustment.

　The Golden Ellipse, which is equipped with Patek Philippe's thinnest movement, the Cal. 240, and boasts the brand's thinnest case thickness at just 5.9mm, is a watch that is comfortable to wear without any special effort. Patek Philippe has now paired the 5738 with a bracelet that has been carefully designed with length adjustment in mind. We can only hope for a comfortable fit.

Aquanaut Ref.5268/461G

　The Aquanaut Luce, with its gorgeous design, now comes in a dazzling model with an 18K white gold case adorned with numerous diamonds and sapphires.

　The dial's center is set with baguette-cut diamonds and blue sapphires, forming a checkered motif reminiscent of the iconic pattern of the Aquanaut collection. The hour markers, consisting of baguette-cut blue sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds in a snow setting, alternate around the periphery. The bezel is adorned with baguette-cut sapphires, each with a delicate gradation from light to dark blue. The lugs and buckle are also adorned with baguette-cut diamonds.

　The case back is transparent, and the automatic movement Cal. 26-330 S is equipped with a date display at 3 o'clock and a center second hand.

TWENTY~4 Ref.4910/1201R

　The Twenty~4 collection, which was launched in 1999 and is celebrating its 25th anniversary, has added a new model with a substantial dial. This new "manchette" style model features a slightly curved rectangular case and a dial with applied Roman numerals.

　The dial is initially embossed with a concentric wave pattern, then coated with dozens of layers of translucent purple lacquer, followed by a layer of colorless lacquer, creating a beautiful depth effect.

　The double-stepped rectangular case is decorated with 17 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.63 carats) on each side of the dial.

　The case and bracelet are made of rose gold, and combined with the rich purple hue, it creates an elegant finish that is worthy of celebrating the anniversary, even among the Twenty~4, which is based on a modern classic style.