Breitling will celebrate its 140th anniversary in 2024. Under CEO Georges Kern, the brand is increasing its presence in the watch market as a luxury watch brand that combines its traditional "tough tool watch" characteristics with modern "luxury." The "Premier" collection was born out of this. In this article, we will introduce the appeal of the Premier and recommend some models.
What is the appeal of the Breitling Premier?
Breitling's Premier collection, launched in 2018, has its roots in the same-named collection produced by Breitling in the 1940s. Let's explore the Premier's history and discover its appeal.
A reissue of the 1943 chronograph watch
Breitling's Premier, which means "first" in French, saw its first model released in 1943. This chronograph watch pursued an elegant style, and was a collection with a very different concept from the military watches that Breitling was producing at the time.
Its elegant yet stylish and sporty design was beloved by many users, but as professional tool watches became the focus of Breitling's collection, it disappeared from the lineup. However, in 2017, Breitling appointed Georges Kern as CEO, and each collection was revamped under this new structure. As part of this, the Premier name and style were revived in 18. It was also redesigned in 21, with a more classically elegant design.
Design and practicality that embodies "everyday elegance"
Since the 1940s, the Premier has been a chronograph watch that brings "everyday elegance." The 2018 reissue collection continues this elegance, but is not simply a reproduction of the original; it features a design that adds contemporary quality, performance, and modern luxury.
Take a look at the Premier B01 Chronograph 42. This model, powered by Breitling's flagship movement, Cal. 01, has a large case measuring 42mm in diameter and 13.6mm thick. However, it omits the 12-hour counter typically found on Cal. 01 movements, resulting in a simple bi-compax dial. Furthermore, it follows the Premier collection's signature style of displaying the tachymeter scale on the outer edge of the dial rather than on an outer bezel, emphasizing elegance over sportiness. It also features elegant details such as applied Arabic numeral indexes and syringe-shaped hands.
The model equipped with the Cal. B09 manual winding movement has an appealing compact size of 40mm in diameter and 13mm thick. Combined with its "manual winding no date" character, it will appeal to watch enthusiasts.
Ambitious to develop variations
The Premier offers both excellent practicality and an elegant style. Currently, the lineup is rich in variations, including the automatic chronograph with the aforementioned Cal. 01 movement, the manual-winding chronograph with Cal. B09 movement, the Duograph with a rattrapante movement, the Datra with a triple calendar and moon phase, and the special edition Chronograph Tourbillon.
In addition, a variety of materials and dial colors are available, and many models have a modern design while still exuding classic elegance.
The wide range of options makes the collection even more appealing, and it also creates anticipation for what new products will be released in the future.
Premiere's Recommended Dell
We have picked out three recommended models from the wide variety of Premier models.
Premier B01 Chronograph
Automatic movement (Cal. 01). 41 jewels. 25,200 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42mm, thickness 13.6mm). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 1,298,000 yen (tax included).
First, let's take a look at the Premier B01 Chronograph 42, which is equipped with the Cal. 01. It features two subdials and applied Arabic numerals, giving it a design that evokes the feel of classic designs.
The alligator leather strap is very classic, but the vibrant copper dial also exudes originality.
Equipped with Breitling's flagship movement, Cal. 01, it is water resistant to 100m and highly practical. Recommended for those looking for an elegant watch that can be used daily.
Premier B09 Chronograph 40
Manual winding (Cal. B09). 28 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40mm, thickness 13.08mm). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 1,105,500 yen (tax included).
The Premier B09 Chronograph 40 features a hand-wound, no-date design, a style that watch enthusiasts love. It also pairs perfectly with a bicompax dial.
The elegant case shape and pistachio green dial are accents, making this watch recommended not only for watch enthusiasts but also for fashion-conscious users.
Premier B15 Duograph 42
Manual winding (Cal. B15). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. 18KRG case (diameter 42mm, thickness 15.35mm). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 2,970,000 yen (tax included).
The Premier B15 Duograph 42 is a Premier model equipped with a rattrapante movement. A rattrapante is a split-seconds chronograph, a complex mechanism with two chronograph seconds hands. This mechanism, which uses two chronograph seconds hands to measure two elapsed times, is generally difficult to incorporate into an automatic watch due to its complexity. However, Breitling has used patented technology to simplify the drive and mechanism and improve accuracy.
This watch incorporates an elegant design and a complex mechanism. If you are looking for a special watch, this is definitely one to consider.
Enjoy the new Premier style that continues the tradition
Since the first model was released in 1943, Breitling's Premier has been a symbol of everyday elegance. With its relaunch in 2018, it has made a major leap forward. While maintaining its classic style, it is also embarking on new challenges.
There is a possibility that even more lineups will be released in the future, and even more attractive models will be released. Let's look forward to the Premiere adding new appeal to the lineup.
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