Breguet's "Classique" represents the ideal form of a watch. Introducing its features and recommended models

2024.06.06

Breguet, which inherited the name of a great watchmaker, is still a luxury brand that leads the watch industry today. The "Classique" collection developed by Breguet can be said to embody the ideals sought by the founder. In this article, we will explore the features and appeal of the Classic collection.

Breguet Classique 5177


The characteristics of the "Classic" collection, which embodies the founder's ideals

Abraham-Louis Breguet is known as a genius watchmaker who accelerated the history of watches by two centuries. The many characteristics of the Breguet "Classique" watch that bears his name are directly linked to the great achievements of Abraham-Louis Breguet.

Two types of dials

Classic dials can be broadly divided into two types: guilloche dials and enamel dials. Both were widely used during the time of Breguet, the company's founder.

Guilloching is a decorative technique applied by machine or by hand. It is said that founder Breguet popularized guilloched dials, and even today Breguet employs many dedicated artisans who work on guilloching on an unprecedented scale.

Breguet Classique 5177

Around 1786, the company's founder, Breguet, invented a new decorative technique called "guilloche," which involves engraving regular patterns into silver or gold, and used it on watch dials.

On the other hand, enamel dials may appear simple at first glance, but in reality they require the same high level of skill as complex guilloching. The "grand feu enamel" used on classic dials requires particularly high levels of craftsmanship.

Breguet Classique 5177

Grand Feu enamel is fired at temperatures exceeding 800 degrees, much higher than regular enamel techniques. To achieve the ideal color, the production process requires the highly skilled techniques of artisans.

Traditional design

The Classic incorporates the distinctive designs that symbolize the brand, all of which were created by the company's founder, Breguet.

The distinctive "Breguet numerals" are often painted on enamel dials. The "Breguet hands" used on most Breguet watches are an innovative design with holes cut into the hands.

Breguet numerals, characterized by their unique typeface, first appeared before the French Revolution and became a design icon for Breguet watches after 1790.

The Breguet hand, with its moon-shaped hole at the tip, was invented by the company's founder, Breguet, around 83.

The typical guilloche pattern, "Clous de Paris," and the grooved pattern on the side of the case, "Coin Edge," are also exterior styles that symbolize Breguet.

The "coin edge" is a fluted pattern with a series of fine grooves. Originally adopted in 18th century France as a measure to prevent the illegal collection of coins, the founder of Breguet was one of the first to incorporate this pattern into watches.

Breguet Classique 5177

The "Clou de Paris" decoration, which means "Claw of Paris," is a type of guilloching on the dial, and has a design resembling thin intersecting pyramids.

These designs are now not limited to Breguet, but are also being incorporated into other watch brands' watches.

Numerous complications

Another major feature of the Breguet Classic collection is that many of the models feature complex mechanisms. Classic complicated watch models can be identified by their model names.

Some of the complicated models are equipped with two or more of the world's seven most complicated mechanisms. Many models are skeletonized, allowing you to enjoy viewing the intricate mechanisms of the movement.

Of the three greatest complications in the world, the tourbillon and perpetual calendar were invented by Breguet, and he also invented the gong mechanism for the minute repeater, making him famous in history.

(Top) Documents on the "Tourbillon Regulator," patented on June 26, 1801. (Bottom) "No. 1176," the third watch created by founder Breguet and the first four-minute tourbillon, was sold in 1809.

Perpetual calendar watch No. 45, equipped with both the Republican and Gregorian calendar systems. Sold to Duke Praslin on February 7, 1806.


Four Recommended Breguet Classic Models

Each model in the Classic Collection is filled with elements created by Breguet, the company's founder. Let's deepen our understanding of the Classic Collection through the recommended models introduced below.

Simple three-hand model "Classic 5177"

Breguet Classique 5177

Breguet "Classique 5177 Grand Feu Blue Enamel" Ref. 5177BB/2Y/9V6
Automatic movement (Cal. 777Q). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 55 hours. 18KWG case (diameter 38mm, thickness 8.8mm). Water resistant to 30m. Price: 4,224,000 yen (tax included).

The Classique 5177 features a beautiful dial that incorporates Breguet blue into Grand Feu enamel. Rhodium-plated Breguet hands and silver-plated indexes and scales enhance legibility.

The movement used is the automatic movement "Cal. 777Q." The escapement and balance spring are made of silicon, providing excellent accuracy and reliability.

Breguet Classic

The transparent case back allows you to see the automatic movement, Cal. 777Q.

The secret signature at 6 o'clock is found on most Breguet watches and is a mark of authenticity that identifies them as genuine Breguet watches.

Enjoy the starry night sky with the Classic Tourbillon 3358

Breguet Classic Tourbillon

Breguet "Classic Tourbillon" Ref. 3358BB/VD/986/D0
Automatic winding (Cal. 187D). 21 jewels. 18,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 50 hours. 18KWG case (diameter 35mm, thickness 9.43mm). Water resistant to 30m. Price: 24,112,000 yen (tax included).

The tourbillon-equipped "3358" model features 69 diamonds on the bezel and lugs. Diamonds are also set on the dial, giving it an overwhelming presence with a total of over 2 carats of diamonds.

The movement is the hand-wound "Cal. 187D," and the tourbillon movement can be seen through the sapphire case back.

Breguet Classic Tourbillon 3358

The case back of this watch also allows you to see the tourbillon in action, and the hammered baseplate is engraved with Breguet's signature and serial number.

The shaded dial and fantastical star motif make this a watch that will lift the spirits of anyone who sees it.

The Classic Minute Repeater 7637: A tribute to a great invention

Breguet Classic Minute Repeater

Breguet "Classic Minute Repeater" Ref. 7637BR/2N/9ZU
Manual winding (Cal. 567/2). 31 jewels. 18,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 40 hours. 18KRG case (42mm diameter, 12.35mm thick). Water resistant to 30m. Price: 41,833,000 yen (tax included).

Breguet, the founder of the watch, sought to improve the functionality of minute repeaters, which tell the time by sound, and developed a gong that strikes a leaf spring instead of the bell-shaped gong that had been used until then. The Classique Minute Repeater 7637 is a model that pays homage to the founder's great invention.

The rose gold case and Grand Feu enamel dial feature familiar Breguet hands, Breguet numerals, and coin-edged decoration. The minute repeater can be activated by operating a lever at 9 o'clock.

Breguet Classic

The dial is colored using the special craft technique of "grand feu enamel," which requires the skill of an artisan, resulting in a luxurious, lustrous jet black finish.

In this model, craftsmen have pursued a tone that is characteristic of Breguet, allowing you to enjoy a more refined, high-quality tone.

The Classic Perpetual Calendar 7327: No leap year date adjustment required

Breguet Classic Perpetual Calendar

Breguet "Classic Perpetual Calendar" Ref. 7327BR/11/9VU
Automatic winding (Cal. 502.3.P). 35 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. 18KRG case (diameter 39mm, thickness 9.13mm). Water resistant to 30m. Price: 13,497,000 yen (tax included).

The 7327BR/11/9VU, released in 2023, is a model equipped with a perpetual calendar. Invented by founder Breguet, the perpetual calendar is a mechanism that does not require date adjustment, even during leap years.

It is equipped with Caliber 502.3.P, one of Breguet's thinnest movements, and the various decorations of the movement can be viewed through the case back.

The moon phase lacquer is mixed with sequins, allowing you to enjoy the different sparkles of the stars as you change the angle of the watch.


Immerse yourself in watchmaking history with the Breguet Classique

It is said that approximately 7% of the mechanisms used in modern watches have some connection to Abraham-Louis Breguet. The ideal watch that the great founder pursued is embodied in classic watches.

The more you know about the history of watches, the more profound your understanding of them will become. Pick up a Classic and reflect on the history of watches.


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