IWC, a long-established watch brand founded in 1868, offers the ever-popular Portugieser collection. The Portugieser is IWC's oldest collection, and it is also a collection that has made a spectacular comeback after a period of hardship. Here, we will introduce the history of the Portugieser, how to choose one, and some representative models from recent years. For those who are thinking of purchasing a luxury watch, learning about the Portugieser will help you make an informed choice.
The History of the IWC Portugieser
Although the Portugieser is now highly regarded as IWC's flagship model, when the first model was released it was not widely known. After a long silence, we trace the footsteps of the Portugieser, which has now been brilliantly revived.
From birth to misfortune
The Portugieser is said to have first appeared in 1939. The original was created in response to a request from two Portuguese merchants for a "nautical watch for the captain of a ship."
To improve accuracy, a large pocket watch movement was incorporated and the dial was enlarged, but the exterior design was refined, perhaps with the captain in mind.
Although the Portugieser was later released commercially, its large 42mm case diameter was not well received at the time, and production was temporarily halted in 1958.
The Portuguese Chronograph was a huge hit
A turning point came for the Portugieser in 1993, the 125th anniversary of IWC's founding, when the company released the commemorative model, the Portugieser Jubilee, equipped with a pocket watch movement.
Watch enthusiasts welcomed the return of this historic model, and the Portugieser Jubilee was a smash hit. This was followed by the introduction of the manual-winding Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante, which was followed by the hugely successful Portugieser Chronograph, released in 1998.
The Portuguese Chronograph was so well received because, despite being a chronograph, it retained the original design codes: it retained its large, simple design elements, but added a more refined touch.
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The return of in-house movements
IWC temporarily stopped producing in-house movements in the 1970s, but the introduction of the limited edition Portugieser Automatic in 2000 marked a much-anticipated return of in-house movements to watch enthusiasts.
With the trend towards larger watches at the time, the Portugieser Automatic was a huge success, and by 2004 it had become a regular model.
In 2020, IWC released the Portugieser Automatic 40. This watch, without any complications, inherits the original values of the Portugieser. Since then, the Portugieser has reigned as IWC's flagship model.
What to Look for When Choosing a Portuguese Watch
The Portugieser lineup includes a wide variety of models, and by choosing based on the mechanism, materials, and dial design, it will be easier to find one that suits your taste.
The installed mechanism
Many Portugieser models are equipped with complex mechanisms, and the model names can give some idea of which mechanisms are incorporated.
Typical complications found in the Portugieser include perpetual calendars, minute repeaters, and tourbillons. The type of mechanism can make a big difference in price, so be sure to carefully consider what you're looking for in a watch.
Materials and dial design
As for materials, the standard Portugieser watch is a stainless steel case with a silver-plated dial, but opting for a gold case will elevate the status.
The current model's indexes have been changed from embossed to more legible typeset, so if you're interested in embossing, you'll need to look elsewhere.
When choosing a Portugieser, one of the most difficult decisions is whether to choose blue or gold hands. Gold hands are recommended for business and formal occasions, while traditional blue hands derived from blue steel are recommended for casual occasions.
Portugieser's flagship model
The current Portugieser models are mostly chronograph models, the Portugieser Automatic 40, and models equipped with complicated mechanisms. We will introduce some representative models from among them, along with their respective appeals.
Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph
The Portugieser Yacht Club series is known for its durability and high water resistance. The Yacht Club II, which debuted in 1977, was designed by legendary watch designer Gérald Genta, who also created the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus.
The Ref. IW390702 is equipped with the in-house movement, Cal. 89361, which features a flyback mechanism and a power reserve of approximately 68 hours.
The Ref. IW390702 features a stainless steel bracelet, completely reminiscent of the Portugieser's leather strap. However, the minute track and applied indexes retain the vintage feel typical of the Portugieser.
Automatic movement (Cal. 89361). 38 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 68 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 44.6mm, thickness 14.3mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 1,061,500 yen (tax included).
Portugieser Automatic 40
The Portugieser Automatic 40 is a collection that has consistently inherited the simple and clean atmosphere and expression from the first model. The "40" in the model name refers to the 40mm case size, achieving a more modern size.
The in-house manufactured movement, Cal. 82200, has a power reserve of approximately 60 hours and can be enjoyed through the transparent case back.
The black alligator strap features a butterfly folding clasp for added comfort.
Automatic movement (Cal. 82200). 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40.4mm, thickness 12.3mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 1,061,500 yen (tax included).
Portugieser Eternal Calendar
The Da Vinci was the first watch to feature a perpetual calendar mechanism, designed by IWC's genius watchmaker, Kurt Klaus. The Portugieser Eternal Calendar is a refined version that pays homage to that achievement.
In addition to a secular calendar that only requires leap year adjustment once every 400 years, it is equipped with an ultra-high precision double moon phase that only deviates by one day every 45 million years.
In June 2024, it was recognized by the Guinness World Records as the "Most Accurate Moon Phase Wristwatch."
Automatic movement (Cal. 52640). 54 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 168 hours. Pt case (diameter 44.4mm, thickness 14.9mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Price upon request.
Understanding the history of the Portugieser enhances its appeal
The Portugieser, a masterpiece of practical watches, is IWC's flagship collection. Although it once experienced a period of decline, it has made a spectacular comeback with the chronograph model.
Once you know its history, picking up a Portugieser will surely make you feel even more attached to your beloved machine.
