From the Rolex GMT-Master II to Patek Philippe! 5 New Pilot's Watches for 2024

Pilot's watches have developed as specialized instruments for genres that require strict timekeeping. In today's world where cross-time zone flights are commonplace, pilot's watches are required to have the ability to visually display multiple time zones. Responding to this demand, Patek Philippe has recently announced a new model of its Alarm Travel Time that offers more advanced timekeeping. Other models that are deeply connected to the history of pilot's watches include the Cartier Santos de Cartier Dual Time and Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. Here, we look back at the history of pilot's watches, focusing on each of their functions.

Patek Philippe's new Alarm Travel Time watch enables accurate timekeeping

　Patek Philippe is one of the origins of modern dress watches, and boasts a diverse lineup including the flagship Calatrava, as well as the Nautilus, a watch with a massive complication and a reputation for luxury sports. Patek Philippe has also long offered pilot's watches, which not only boast exquisite appearances but also the distinctive mechanisms characteristic of the company, which excels in complications.

　The model announced this time is a new version of the Alarm Travel Time, which was first released in 2019. It features an 18K rose gold case and a two-tone dial in gray soleil and anthracite. Its exterior features a pilot's watch design, including pointed syringe hands, large, thick Roman numerals, and a railway minute track.

　Let's take a look at the mechanism. The skeleton syringe hand indicates the home time zone, while the luminous hour hand indicates the local time zone, and the day/night indicators for each are displayed as "HOME" and "LOCAL." The digital display at 12 o'clock is the alarm time, and the indicator directly below it is the day/night indicator for the alarm time. The pointer date at 6 o'clock is synchronized with the local time zone.

　While based on a classic analog display, this model allows users who frequently travel between time zones to accurately manage time by combining various functions. Even if it appears to have a complicated mechanism, the appeal of Patek Philippe lies in the fact that it is a useful function for users who need it.

New colors added to Rolex's Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II

　A new Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II (hereafter referred to as the GMT-Master II) has been announced, featuring a single-tone black finish. The current GMT-Master II was redesigned in 18 and is equipped with the Caliber 3285. This model features a color scheme reminiscent of the Ref. 116710LN, which disappeared during this redesign.

　The Oyster Perpetual Submariner (Ref. 124060), a diver's watch with a similar design, is primarily black, so it may seem strange that there have been no black GMT-Master II models for some time. However, when you consider its origins, it makes sense that the other colors are the "basic colors." Let's take a look at the history.

　As civilian air routes were developed in the 1950s, the number of long-distance and international flights crossing time zones increased, creating a need to be able to check the time at departure and arrival points, as well as GMT (Greenwich Mean Time), which is necessary for aircraft operations.To meet the needs of such civilian pilots, a watch was developed that featured a GMT hand in addition to hour, minute, and second hands, combined with a bidirectional rotating 24-hour bezel.

　This is the origin of the "GMT Master," the predecessor to the GMT Master II. This 24-hour bezel featured high-contrast colors like red and navy, allowing for easy identification of day and night. (In addition, this lineage is the reason this watch was featured in our Pilot's Watches feature.) Therefore, the one-tone black model can be considered a derivative model.

　Now, the new additions to Watches & Wonders 2024 are the Oyster bracelet model with a three-row design and polished middle links, and the Jubilee bracelet model, which exudes a luxurious feel. With Rolex, there's no need to worry about the high level of perfection. All that's left is to hopefully get the chance to see one in store.

Has the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT solved the long-standing problem of the GMT function?

　Tudor has announced the Black Bay 58 GMT, a watch with a strong classical feel that is equipped with a GMT function.

　The two main topics regarding the functions mentioned in the press release for this model were that the Cal. MT5450-U movement was newly developed for optimal design rather than simply adding a GMT module to a conventional movement, and that this model, which is equipped with this movement, has been certified as a Master Chronometer.

　Although it is extremely difficult to obtain Master Chronometer certification and it is certainly noteworthy, there was no further information provided. However, this watch actually had a surprising hidden feature. Please refer to the article below for more details.

Tudor's new Black Bay 58 GMT for 2024. What's really amazing is what's inside!

http://www.webchronos.net/features/113471/

　To summarize: Pulling the crown out two notches adjusts the hour, minute, and GMT hands, while pulling it out one notch adjusts the hour hand alone and the date. This is similar to recent models with a GMT function. Previously, the date would change slowly in sync with the movement of the hands to allow for the date to be set back when crossing a time zone in a reverse direction. However, the Cal. MT5450-U achieves an instantaneous date change function.

　The case diameter is 39mm and the thickness is 12.8mm, which is quite compact considering that it is water resistant to 200m and has an elaborate GMT function. Its level of perfection is such that it can be said to be a benchmark for future models equipped with a GMT function.

The latest model of the Santos, the world's first mass-produced men's wristwatch and the first pilot's watch

　As mentioned earlier, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II originated as a pilot's watch made for commercial airline pilots in the 1950s. Considering its time period, it can be said to be one of the earliest models for commercial airline pilots. So, what was the original model for pilots' watches?

　It's the Cartier Santos. The Santos is a historic model that was launched in 11 as the world's first mass-produced men's wristwatch. The Santos was based on a watch that Louis Cartier, a member of the founding family, designed for his friend, Alberto Santos-Dumont, who made a major contribution to the practical application of aviation, as a watch that would make it easy to check the time while flying. This makes the Santos the world's first mass-produced men's wristwatch and the first pilot's watch.

　The Santos de Cartier Dual Time, a model that was announced with this background in mind, features a charcoal gray sunray-finished dial with a second time zone display at 6 o'clock, a function that anticipates flights across time zones, something that was not possible in the time of Louis Cartier.

　This model has a modern impression, thanks to its high exterior quality, but its silhouette with a square case and extending lugs, as well as the radially arranged Roman numerals, are reminiscent of the original Santos model or prototype.

　The fact that such a highly refined design was created at the time the world's first wristwatch was conceived is a testament to Louis Cartier's foresight.

Breitling's latest Cosmonaut model: a lineage of pilot's watches that have accompanied great space flights

　So far, we've looked at models for aircraft flying through the atmosphere. Now, let's go beyond the atmosphere and fly into outer space. The essential piece for this is the recently announced Breitling Navitimer B12 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaut Limited Edition.

　The original Cosmonaut model was a wristwatch made at the request of astronaut Scott Carpenter, who flew on the Mercury-Atlas 7 in 58 as part of Project Mercury, America's first manned space flight program, which began in 62. He was originally a Breitling fan and was reportedly impressed by the Navitimer's calculation functions.

　While based on the Navitimer, the Cosmonaut featured a 24-hour dial to distinguish between day and night in space, and a voluminous rotating bezel that made it easy to operate even while wearing the thick gloves of a space suit.

　The newly announced model is the Navitimer B12 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaut Limited Edition, a limited edition reissued to mark Breitling's 140th anniversary. While retaining the characteristics of the original model, the case is crafted from gorgeous 18K red gold and is paired with a striking deep green dial.

　The black inset dial and rotating bezel slide rule create a sharp impression. The extremely detailed scale on the dial is clearly printed and highly legible, reflecting Breitling's 140 years of history and experience, as well as the company's advanced dial manufacturing technology in recent years.

　Until now, space flight has been a part of national space development. However, times are changing, and private space flight is becoming possible. When that happens, having this game as your companion is a romantic choice.