Looking at the Movement! 5 New Watches to Watch in 2024

We've picked out five noteworthy movements from the new models announced by various manufacturers in 2024. This year, too, we were surprised by the unique machines that strongly reflected the philosophy of each manufacturer.

This year's new movement is the hand-wound type!

　Many amazing new movements were announced in 2024, including Grand Seiko's long-awaited new manual-winding movement, as well as Bulgari and Piaget's pursuit of the ultimate in thinness. This article will introduce five carefully selected movements from among them. It's also worth noting that the philosophy of each manufacturer can be glimpsed through the movements.

Grand Seiko "Cal.9SA4"

　Grand Seiko unveiled the Cal. 9SA4, a new hand-wound mechanical movement, at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024. It is based on the Cal. 9SA5 automatic movement, which was released in 20. The Cal. 9SA4 retains the same features as the high-beat movement (10 vibrations per second), dual impulse escapement for improved power transmission efficiency, free-sprung balance for long-term stable accuracy, and twin barrels for a power reserve of approximately 80 hours.

　It is worth noting that attention was paid to the feel when crafting this hand-wound movement. The click and click spring were newly designed to achieve a pleasant winding feel and sound when winding the mainspring.

　However, some people may find the approximately 80 hours of winding time a burden. Anticipating such opinions, the Cal. 9SA4's manual winding gear train has been redesigned to reduce the number of windings by approximately 15%. A power reserve indicator is placed on the bridge, allowing users to visually check the remaining winding time.

　Another notable feature is the finish, inspired by the nature of Shizukuishi Town in Iwate Prefecture, where Grand Seiko mechanical models are produced. The bridge is chamfered and decorated with stripes that represent the flow of the Shizukuishi River, and the shape of the kohaze (small sedge) is inspired by the wagtail, a bird that can also be seen at Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi.

Bvlgari "Cal.BVL180"

　Bvlgari is a brand that stands out in the genre of thin watches. The company has set eight records for the world's thinnest mechanical watch to date. However, in 2022, something happened that shocked the watch world. The Octo Finissimo Ultra, which was released in 2022 and set the world's thinnest record at the time, with a thickness of 1.8mm, was broken that same year by Richard Mille.

　Two years later, Bvlgari reclaimed the world's thinnest watch with the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC. Its case is 1.7mm thick, 0.1mm thinner than its predecessor and 0.05mm thinner than Richard Mille's record. These figures demonstrate the company's unwavering commitment to achieving the world's thinnest watch.

　The Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC is equipped with the Caliber BVL180 movement. The horizontal gear train reduces thickness, and the case back and main plate, to which the movement is directly attached, are made of tungsten carbide, which is highly durable and hard. Not only that, but it has also been certified as a COSC chronometer, proving its excellent precision. It's truly admirable that the watch's practicality is not just about chasing numbers.

Piaget Altiplano

　Piaget, a brand that specializes in thin watches, should not be forgotten. Celebrating its 150th anniversary this year, the company achieved the feat of equipping a tourbillon in a case just 2mm thick with the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon.

　The layout of the parts is not significantly different from the movement used in the previous "Altiplano Ultimate Concept." The subdial for displaying the time, which was at 12 o'clock, has been shifted slightly toward 1 o'clock, creating space to house the flying tourbillon, which is held in place by ceramic ball bearings. While this sounds simple, it took repeated refinements of over 70 different tourbillon carriages, over 15 different anchors, and over 30 different case frames to achieve this.

　A tourbillon, whose regulator itself rotates, consumes more energy than a fixed regulator. To address this issue, the company adopted a custom-made mainspring that is slightly thicker and incorporates ball bearings instead of a pivot, achieving a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.

Parmigiani Fleurier "Cal.780"

　Parmigiani Fleurier's "Trick" collection was revived this year. One of the collection, the "Trick Petite Seconde," is equipped with the Cal. 780 movement.

　This newly designed small seconds hand-wound movement is rare in this day and age, and is made from 18K rose gold. The Toric Petite Seconde has a see-through case back, but the entire gear train cannot be seen, as most of it is hidden by three geometrically divided bridges. All that can be seen are the balance wheel supported by a double-supported balance cock and the two barrels lined up side by side.

　The bridges are decorated with Côtes de Fleurier and chamfered edges, and the contrast with the sandblasted base plate visible through the gaps in the bridges creates a highly aesthetic look.

　The movement, while classically designed, is modern, with a frequency of 8 vibrations per second and a power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Its thickness is just 3.15mm, which allows the Toric Petite Seconde case to be kept to just 8.8mm.

Cartier "Cal.1928MC"

　The Privé Tortue Monopusher Chronograph, introduced as a Cartier Privé, is equipped with a new manual-winding chronograph movement. The two horizontally aligned subdials function as a 30-minute counter at the 3 o'clock position and a small second at the 9 o'clock position.

　What is particularly noteworthy is that it is a monopusher chronograph. Unlike a typical chronograph, it does not have two independent pushers, but rather a single pusher located coaxially with the crown that controls all start, stop, and reset operations.

　Because there is no automatic winding rotor, you can enjoy every detail of the movement, which is full of highlights, such as the movement of the column wheel and carrying arm, which are unique to chronographs, and the bridge with its striped decoration.The movement itself is also well-designed to match the Tortue's tonneau-shaped case, and the see-through back allows you to see how it is packed to the corners of the case.