"The future of the watch industry is probably bright." Watch journalist Norio Takagi selects the top 5 new watches for 2024

This project asks journalists and other prominent figures in the watch industry to choose their top five watches released in 2024. This time, we will introduce five masterpieces selected by Norio Takagi, a watch journalist and known as the author of "The World's Easiest to Understand How Wristwatches Work" (Sekai Bunka Publishing).

1st place: Cartier "Tortue Monopusher Chronograph"

I was thrilled to see the revival of a model I admired back when it was available at CPCP. The Cal. 1928 MC, which has the same form as the case, has a truly elegant and beautiful design with its delicate hammers and levers. The horizontal clutch system is also a personal favorite.

2. Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

A small "58" case, a GMT with a cork bezel, a Master Chronometer, and even a bracelet version for just 64 yen. What more could you ask for? This is a watch that strikes a chord with watch lovers. Tudor's pricing remains a mystery this year.

3rd place: Chopard "LUC XPS Forest Green"

The moment I saw the non-date sector dial, I exclaimed, "I love this!" The "XPS" that came out last year was also exactly what I liked, but it was too expensive. However, the price of this new model is just within my reach. The green color is also elegant.

4. Grand Seiko "Evolution 9 Collection" Ref. SLGW003

At the Japanese exhibition, only the side view was available, but at Watches & Wonders Geneva, I was able to operate the watch with the new movement installed. The highlight was the ease of winding. The crown turned lightly, and the clicking sound was very satisfying. Watches that make you want to wind them up can be a bit dangerous.

5st place: Parmigiani Fleurier "Trick Petite Seconde"

It's impressive how the Tonda PF design codes have been incorporated into a classic design. The 18-karat gold dial, finished using classical techniques, is of extremely high quality. The thin, hand-wound movement is also quite appealing, but the price tag is a bit high due to the 18-karat gold construction.

General comment

　It was fun! - This is my honest impression after finishing my interview with W&W. The interview schedule was much more packed than last year. However, at every brand I visited, I was able to find new products that I definitely wanted. I didn't feel tired, and I thoroughly enjoyed myself. The various techniques used in materials, finishes, and coloring made the designs even more expressive than last year.

　In terms of mechanisms, many interesting complications appeared, and it was interesting to see the unpatented central tourbillon becoming something of a trend. The approaches of non-specialized watch brands such as Cartier, Chanel, and Hermès were particularly unique and varied, with classic, automaton, and ultra-complicated timepieces. While not all of them made it into my personal top five, I think any of the new models from any of these brands would rank within the top ten. Specialized watch brands also worked diligently on their creations, delivering high-quality, elegant new pieces without trying to be eccentric.

　Overall, the impression was that the trend had shifted from a purely "luxury" style to a more classic one. Many brands were also aiming for a more luxurious feel. The arrival of high-quality luxury watches is a welcome development, but it's inevitable that the soaring price of gold and the weak yen have cast a shadow over prices. In this environment, the challenge going forward will be to create priceless added value.

　The general public attendance was even more enthusiastic than last year. I saw many young people in casual fashion admiring the new watches. The future of the watch industry is probably bright.