IWC Portugieser Chronograph Wearing Review: The Power of a Long-Selling Model with Over 25 Years of History

The Portugieser Chronograph has been an iconic model for IWC since its introduction in 1998. Although there have been minor changes, it is a long-selling model that has been passed down without any model changes. The model chosen for this review is the Ref. IW371606, which was released in 2020 equipped with an in-house developed movement. How does this classic model perform?

Impressions of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph

American rationalism and enterprising spirit are the foundation of IWC

　IWC is one of my favorite watchmakers, carefully crafting timepieces that truly look like watches. Unfortunately, I have never had the opportunity to own one until now, and this Portugieser Chronograph is the first IWC to enter my home.

　When I started making watch magazines in 1996, there weren't as many brands as there are today, the mechanisms weren't as complicated, and the enthusiasm wasn't as high, so I was able to spend more time with watches. The magazine I was in charge of also introduced antique and used watches alongside new products -- a testament to the good old days. I was fortunate to be able to experience both new IWC and antique International Watch Co. watches at the same time, and experiencing their history chronologically gave me the opportunity to learn about watches in a systematic way. I truly had a wonderful time.

　It all started to remind me of things like that. By the way, in antiques, IWC was written in cursive as International Watch Co, not IWC, and I used to use the word "cursive" in conversations like a connoisseur, and I would often mention it. "Is that cursive?" or "It has to be cursive"... No, no, it's so embarrassing.

　At the time, most Swiss-based watchmakers' names were written in French. We Japanese boldly pronounced them in katakana. Some were even hesitant to say. Therefore, IWC's "English" was unusual. I found this strange, but after learning about its history, it made sense.

　The relevant part of the "History" section on IWC's website is quoted below.

　"Boston-born watchmaker Florentine Ariosto Jones founded the International Watch Company (IWC) in 1868. Jones combined the skills of Switzerland's finest watchmakers with cutting-edge manufacturing techniques and the hydroelectric power of the nearby River Rhine to produce the highest quality pocket watch movements."

　Jones (1841-1916), a native of Boston, Massachusetts, wanted to produce high-quality pocket watches for the American market, so even though his headquarters was in Schaffhausen, Switzerland, it made sense to use English names given the market.

　By the way, Schaffhausen was close to the German border and far from the French-speaking areas of Geneva and Basel, the centers of the Swiss watch industry. However, it had modern factory sites and a hydroelectric power plant that took advantage of the waters of the Rhine, making it a place where it was possible to produce "next-generation" watches.

　The essence of IWC, such as the simplicity and strength of the brand, which was cultivated in the German-influenced city of Schaffhausen, and its streamlined design, as well as the American rationalist thinking and Swiss-based technical capabilities, seems to be due in part to the choice of this location.

　In 1994, the Mark XII (Mark 12) was released and the brand enjoyed immense popularity—a popularity that continues to this day. The company I worked for had a strong presence in military items, so I favored military watches, the epitome of rationalism. "When you think of IWC, you think of pilot's watches." The Portugieser made a full comeback in 96, but at the time, I'll be honest and say I didn't fully understand its true essence and appeal. I wish I could tell myself back then that I couldn't have such a narrow perspective, even though I was an editor.

Ordered by two Portuguese. Hence the name "Portugieser."

　Don't get me wrong, I think I understand the appeal of the Portugieser. First of all, the story behind its creation is fascinating and inspiring.

　"1939: The Portuguese was born. It all began when two Portuguese merchants ordered a large wristwatch equipped with a high-precision pocket watch movement (from the website)."

　To go into more detail about their request, they wanted a watch with the same level of accuracy as a marine chronometer, a watch used on sailing ships. The 30s was the dawn of wristwatches, and it was difficult to achieve and maintain accuracy over long periods of time. Furthermore, a large movement was essential to achieve the high level of accuracy they were looking for. In other words, to receive the Portuguese order, it was essential to use a pocket watch movement. This meant that the watch was inevitably large, with a 36.6mm diameter movement housed in a 42mm case.

　The reason why PORTUGUESE (which means Portuguese) became the model name is probably because, during and after production, IWC watchmakers would occasionally say things like, "They haven't made a Portuguese watch," or "Look, look, this is a watch made by that Portuguese person." They might have called large watches Portugieser. They might have said, "That size is a Portuguese." Well, this is just my imagination.

　As mentioned above, the Portugieser was revived as a collection 28 years ago in 96. The manual-winding "Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante" was released, followed in 98 by the automatic "Portugieser Chronograph" (Ref. 3714).

　In 2018, IWC celebrated its 150th anniversary by releasing the "Portugieser Chronograph '150 Years'" limited to 2000 pieces, equipped with the in-house automatic chronograph movement, Caliber 69355. Now, in 20, a new "Portugieser Chronograph" (Ref. 3716) has been released, also equipped with Caliber 69355, and continuing the tradition to this day.

　I held it up to my ear to hear what it would sound like, but it was so quiet I couldn't hear it at first. It wasn't until I listened carefully in a quiet place that I was able to hear the small, yet sincere and precise ticking sound. I hope you'll hear the precision of this movement for yourself. It's a wonderfully delicate and captivating tone.

　The push buttons have a soft feel while still retaining a sense of operation, and the hands move smoothly. When resetting from a stop, the chronograph second hand also returns to zero sharply, so you'll want to enjoy not only the sound of the movement, but also the feel of it.

　For more information about this movement, please see the Chronos newsletter andDetails posted on webChronosPlease check there.

The more you use this classic item, the more attractive it becomes.

　Now, the Portugieser is large. This is evident from the measurements of 41mm in diameter and 13mm in thickness. This is because the size reflects the historical background of the Portugieser, which was created using a pocket watch movement.

　Moreover, the bezel is designed to be thin, which also has the effect of making the dial appear larger. The bezel protrudes slightly from the case like a canopy, which makes the push buttons and crown appear compact. This is also a way to focus the eye on the dial.

　The case is almost cylindrical, and as you can see from the side, there is no attempt to round the back of the case or add decorations to it in order to make the large watch look smaller or to improve comfort. Moreover, the case back is even bulging due to the see-through case back. This also seems to have a negative effect on comfort.

　So when I first saw the watch, I wondered, "Will the watch move on the wrist?" What's more, it has a very delicate leather strap. I also wondered whether it would be possible to handle the volume. However, when I actually tried it on, those fears were unfounded. And I came to understand the true nature of this long-selling product. "Even though it's so big? How does it fit so well?"

　If the size is what's holding you back from the Portugieser, then you're missing out. You should definitely try it on.

　What impressed me as I used it was its outstanding legibility. The reason for this is the narrow gap between the dial and the windshield. This means that the time can be read reliably even at a considerable angle. I noticed this while driving, and it was a refreshing surprise to be able to read the time while holding the wheel. Of course, the size is an advantage, and the anti-reflective coating on both sides of the sapphire glass also helps, but there are countless watches like this. The reason for the high legibility is that it is a Portugieser Chronograph.

　Everything on the dial, including the dot and minute hand, the outer scale and chronograph second hand, and the three-dimensionality of the applied indexes, is perfectly balanced, nothing less, making it truly a one-of-a-kind design. Of course, the craftsmanship of each part and the beauty of its shape are also outstanding. The high level of legibility is the result of the perfect balance between these parts, and this is the true power of IWC's standard models.

　The Portugieser Chronograph has been around for a long time, with only minor changes made, since its launch in 1996. IWC's decision not to change the design is proof of their belief in the power of design in this model.

　I was only able to notice these features after using it for more than two weeks. A watch that is attractive at first glance is good. However, when a watch has charms that you discover as you use it, like this model, it becomes even more hard to put down. This is a model that you should use for a long time.

Another person's impression

　This time, I asked a man in his early 40s who I know through work about his impressions of a Portugieser Chronograph that he purchased last year.

　Having reached his 40s, and being a manager, and seeing his colleagues and seniors wearing timepieces from well-known brands, he began to feel that it was about time he had a good watch. Another reason was that his eldest son was born a few years ago, which sparked a desire to "take over the business."

　While browsing the watch floor of a department store and looking at various watches, he came across an IWC and the Portuguese Chronograph. He liked the stylish look of the watch and after learning more about it online, he ended up purchasing it.

　He describes the Portugieser Chronograph as "large and very easy to read. And despite its size, it's light." Indeed, the stainless steel case model weighs less than 100g, even when fitted with an alligator strap with a stainless steel folding buckle. It wasn't until he made this comment that I realized that this unexpected lightness also contributes to the watch's comfortable fit. Perhaps the pursuit of lightness is also a key factor in its long-lasting popularity.

　The change in my attitude since I started using the Portugieser Chronograph is that I have the feeling that I have become a slightly more capable member of society.

　"When you think of it as a watch, it's just an item, but when you think of an IWC or a Portuguese Chronograph, it's like a sign of how hard you've worked, and it encapsulates your time as a working adult. It motivates me for the future, and I feel like it has a positive effect on me, helping me to stay motivated."

　It will be a while before he can hand over to his children, and until then, he says, "I want them to be my companion in life."

　The Portugieser Chronograph certainly has a look that makes it a fitting companion. When I accepted this review, I was a little concerned about whether I would be able to have a fresh impression of a model whose design has remained unchanged for over 25 years, but the watch's performance dispelled those concerns. It's truly an iconic IWC model, as you'd expect. Having reviewed this review, I'm also very interested to learn that in recent years, new dial colors such as green, dune, and light blue have been added to the classic white, black, and blue dials, proposing new appeal.