Since its introduction in 2004, the Orient Mako has been available in a wide variety of variations. Its 20th anniversary model features a blue dial with a embossed wave pattern, as well as other special details. I had been searching for a diver's sports watch for under 100,000 yen that I could wear without hesitation while riding my bike on a rainy day. This model costs 57,200 yen including tax! I'd like to try it out and see how it performs.

Text & Photographs by Iwao Yoshida
[Article published on January 26, 2024]
The classic diver's look appeals to traditional watch lovers
Some people may have the impression that Orient specializes in models that feature in-house movements in uniquely designed exteriors, but the company also has a lineup of many conservative designs, and previous models of the Orient Mako, which belongs to the sports collection, have also adopted the classic design of a diver's watch.
The series was born in 2004. Continuing from the brand's first diver's watch, the "Olympia Calendar Diver," released in 1964, the Orient Mako has steadily updated its diver design while maintaining its distinctive features, winning over enthusiastic fans not only in Japan but also overseas. The first model from 2004 featured a button for adjusting the day of the week at the 2 o'clock position, but from the second generation onwards in 2015, the day of the week was adjusted using the crown, and since then, the watch has taken on an increasingly basic diver's look. While it's not uncommon to use diver's watches for business these days, the Orient Mako's design is sure to appeal to those who prefer a more traditional look.
Some people may find the name "Mako," which sounds like a female name, strange. It was originally a nickname. Overseas users mistook the dolphin icon on the case back for a shark and began calling it "MAKO," which means shark in Maori, and this name has since spread among fans in some regions. It's a rather cute-sounding name, and it's likely another reason why fans are attached to it.
Bright blue accented with black

This is the 20th anniversary model of the popular "Orient Mako" watch, popular overseas. The blue dial with a stamped wave pattern and the blue and black unidirectional rotating bezel add to its special appeal. Automatic movement (Cal. F6922). 22 jewels. Power reserve of approximately 40 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 41.8mm, thickness 12.8mm). Water resistant to 20 bar. Limited to 500 pieces in Japan. Price: 57,200 yen (tax included).
The model I'm reviewing today is a limited edition of 500 pieces celebrating the 20th anniversary. The dial, which features Arabic numerals that have been carried over from the original model, is painted a vibrant blue and features a distinct embossed pattern with a wave motif. The press release states that "from 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock, a blue gradient is applied, evoking the beautiful ocean surrounding Japan," but I couldn't quite make out the effect of the gradient, perhaps because the embossed pattern interferes with the color. Nevertheless, it is certainly a deep blue with subtle shading. Depending on the angle, the wave pattern looks like a herringbone pattern, making for a very stylish dial.

The understated design of the Anniversary Edition in cursive at the 4 o'clock position, blending in with the markers on the outer edge of the dial, is also nice. The gold color used for the hour and minute hands and the familiar Orient logo of two lions surrounding the "O" adds a subtle touch of elegance.
The aluminum plate of the unidirectional rotating bezel is a two-tone design, with the triangle mark and 20 minutes being painted blue to match the dial, and everything else being black. It's not as flashy as the red and blue "Pepsi" bezel, and I think it's a pretty cool color scheme. The black bezel also makes the blue dial look crisp. Incidentally, I wear a lot of black clothes, and I wear denim 300 days a year...70% of the time, and blue denim 30% of the time. For someone like me, the coloring of this model seems perfect.

Perfect proportions that even small-path enthusiasts will appreciate
While I was borrowing the Orient Mako, I, a conscientious writer, wore it almost every day. I have typically Asian-sized slender wrists (16.5 cm circumference), and I usually prefer small-diameter hand-wound watches, so I was worried that the 41.5 mm diameter might be too large, but it actually sat surprisingly well on my wrist. During the rental period, I had two rare interviews where I had to wear a suit, and although it did interfere a little with the cuffs of my shirt, I never felt overwhelmed by the size. This is probably because the lugs are shorter than the case. The bezel trims the watch, so it doesn't visually feel like I'm wearing a large watch.

The 22mm wide bracelet that extends straight from the lugs also fits well. The triple fold buckle with double lock doesn't feel uncomfortably thick, perhaps because each part is made thin. Incidentally, this bracelet looks like a triple link bracelet, but it's actually a series of convex links made from a single piece, just made to look like three links by the grooves. The specifications are commensurate with the price, but in terms of preventing the bracelet from loosening, this may be the right choice.

The traditional Mako unidirectional rotating bezel with six notches turns smoothly while still providing a subtle ratchet sound. It's an addictively pleasant feeling to turn. The bezel's notches are also nicely rounded, so it won't hurt your fingers when you operate it in winter and it won't damage your shirt cuffs.
The screw-down crown can be turned when unlocked, and then pulled out one notch to adjust the date and day of the week, and one more notch to adjust the time. I thought it might be difficult to operate because of the crown guard, but the crown is just the right size and has large notches, so I was able to set it smoothly.
The watch is equipped with the in-house manufactured movement, Cal. F6922, a low-beat type with a vibration rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour and a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. It's a highly reliable movement found in many Orient models, and when I looked online, I found many people writing that the actual watch delivers far greater accuracy than the manufacturer's stated daily deviation of +25 to -15 seconds. I haven't run it through a rate measuring device, so I can't be precise, but when I checked it with a watch app on my smartphone, the borrowed watch maintained a high accuracy of less than +10 seconds per day.

Dressed as a tough mechanical diver's watch
Motorcycles are one of my few hobbies. I rotate between my three beat-up motorcycles for my daily commute to the office. On really rainy days, I commute by train, but if it's just a little rain, I put on a raincoat and ride my motorcycle. Unfortunately, the watches I own are all delicate antiques or ones that are waterproof enough for everyday use, so when I ride my motorcycle, I usually put my watch in a portable watch case and stash it at the bottom of my bag, and then put it on when I get to the office, which is a tedious routine. It would be easier if I wore a G-SHOCK or something similar, but as a watch lover, I still prefer mechanical watches.
So, I've always wanted a tough mechanical diver's watch that I could wear without hesitation while riding my motorcycle. And ideally, something in the price range of a second watch. It would be cool to wear an expensive diver's watch from a prestigious brand that I could wear hard, even in the rain, but I don't have the courage or the financial means to do so.
In that respect, the Orient Mako, available for around 5 yen, is a blessing. It's not a model that complies with the ISO 6425 diver's standard, but rather a so-called land diver's watch. However, thanks to its screw-down back and screw-down crown, it's water resistant to 20 bar, making it safe to use even in the rain. (However, riding a motorcycle in a downpour would likely expose the watch to considerable water pressure, and the motorcycle itself would also vibrate quite a bit, so use at your own risk...)
I actually had some free time on my day off, so I decided to wear it on my wrist and ride my bike to a nearby wine dig. The Orient Mako's vintage diver-style look matched my classic rider's jacket and my aged bike just as I expected, and it felt great. The blue dial also looked great in the spring sunshine, and I felt refreshed every time I checked the time. Since it was an important watch I borrowed, I intended to put it in my jacket pocket when it started to rain, but if it were my own watch, I think I would have worn it on my wrist even in the rain.

The more discerning a watch lover is, the more they will appreciate this watch.
Due to its reasonable price, the Orient Mako is often considered an entry-level model for full-fledged mechanical watches. However, this authentic diver's style watch is sure to appeal to discerning watch lovers. For starters, a watch with an in-house movement and water resistance to 20 bar, especially with such impeccable exterior quality, would certainly cost at least 10 yen if it were from a Swiss brand. Those who appreciate this will surely find this a truly respectable and conscientious model. For example, if you bump into an acquaintance wearing a high-end diver's watch on the street, you won't be intimidated. In fact, you'll want to brag about your discerning eye and say, "Did you know that Orient, a Japanese company, makes such fine watches?" It's the kind of model you might buy as a second watch, but before you know it, you'll find yourself wearing it all the time.

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