I can't buy Cartier's new 2024 model, but the Tortue monopusher chronograph is a masterpiece of a masterpiece!

Cartier continues to release many new products. While there were no major releases in 2024, I found a truly outrageous model. It's a new version of the now legendary "Tortue One-Push Chronograph." While it may seem like a rehash of a previous model, the case and movement are completely different. It's a masterpiece that's a shame it's a limited edition. If I were rich, I'd buy it immediately.

Tortue's one-push chronograph is back in 2024!

　One of Cartier's most sought-after collector's items is the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP). This collection, which recreates masterpieces from the past, has become incredibly popular, despite its initial unpopularity. Whether Cartier was aware of this market or not, they have revived past models under the name of Collection Privée. Each year, a new release has generated a global frenzy. I know many watch enthusiasts who are eyeing the Privée collection.

　The latest addition to the Privé line is the Tortue one-push chronograph. Incidentally, Cartier also reissued this model in the former CPCP. When I first saw this model, I assumed it was just a rehash of the CPCP. However, to my surprise, the new Tortue had a completely different case, as well as a completely different movement. I never expected Cartier to create a movement from scratch for a limited edition model of 200 pieces at most. Of course, Cartier is now an excellent manufacturer. However, I had always thought they weren't the kind of manufacturer that would create elaborate movements that would delight enthusiasts like me. It was precisely because they arrogantly ignored the otaku crowd that I found it so thrilling and inspiring.

The hand-wound movement Cal.1928 MC that will delight watch enthusiasts

　The reason why the CPCP Tortue One-Push Chronograph has become such a sought-after collector's item is undoubtedly due to its movement. It was designed by the former THA, a movement manufacturer founded by Vianney Halter and François-Paul Journe. Journe once told me, "I designed the THA one-pusher chronograph. Nardin and Cartier have used it." While maintaining a classic design, Journe employed a compact swing pinion for the clutch mechanism, successfully reducing the movement's size. This movement was later purchased by TIM, a movement manufacturer founded by Journe, and then acquired by La Joux-Perret, a subsidiary of Citizen. In 2023, Angelus, a sister company of La Joux-Perret, could have adopted a chronograph designed by the former THA.

　However, the 2024 Tortue is equipped with a completely new in-house movement, not the old THA. A Cartier insider explained that the original reason for the move was to make the movement thinner. And the reason they didn't use the old THA masterpiece was because they wanted it to fit the Tortue case. By shifting the barrel and balance and stiffening the chronograph mechanism, the new chronograph movement is clearly thinner. The chronograph levers are also incredibly thin, unlike those of current chronographs. However, what's truly remarkable about this movement is the resulting layout. The levers and components are positioned with astonishing symmetry, meaning Cartier has finally created an "elaborate movement that will delight enthusiasts." The only regret is that the regulator is Triovis-style, but Cartier's prioritization of ease of maintenance is likely a major consideration.

　Incidentally, Cartier apparently received outside assistance in developing this movement. The name is Le Cercle d'Orroger. This manufacturer has been involved in various companies' "musical instruments," as well as in recent years in complicated watches for Biver and the automatic movements for the Louis Vuitton Tambour. However, no matter how excellent Le Cercle d'Orroger is, it is hard to imagine that they could have created such an aesthetically pleasing movement. Cartier must have had quite a say in the matter.

　Putting aside my personal speculation, the new Tortue, like its predecessor, is a model worth buying due to its movement. Unfortunately, I didn't have a chance to press the push button, but judging from the thin regulation spring, it must feel light and nimble. At the very least, it can be said to be completely different from today's chronographs, which emphasize a heavy and rigid feel. I've forgotten the name, but it's easy to see why a foreign journalist described it as "Cartier's Datograph."

A beautiful exterior from any angle

　There's nothing to say about the exterior. The high-quality, in-house case not only faithfully reproduces the size of the first model, but is also water resistant to 3 ATM. The black Roman numerals on the dial are also reproduced with black decals, rather than painted black. The black Roman numerals make the watch look different from existing models and give it a classic impression. Cartier's signature thick indices would have significantly diminished the flimsy impression of this model.

The new watch that Otaku Hirota wants to buy even if it means going into debt

　As an otaku, I really love this watch. If I had actually touched the push button, I might not have liked it nearly as much. There's one problem, though: the price is exorbitant, but that's not really the issue. I was so tempted to go into debt to buy one, so I'm sure there are countless others out there who feel the same way. The problem isn't the price, but rather the quantity. Only 300 pieces are limited. Even if it's 300 million, that's 3 million, not 3000 million. I'm afraid it will sell out immediately. So, I thought I'd stop writing about this model. But I'm sure someone will. If you manage to get one, please let the Chronos editorial team know. Hirota will go and see it.