Masamasa Hirota, Editor-in-Chief of Chronos Japan, Selects the Top 5 New Watches of 2024 with an Otaku's Eye

This project asks journalists and other prominent figures in the watch industry to choose their top five watches released in 2024. This time, Masamasa Hirota, editor-in-chief of Chronos Japan and webChronos, and a hardcore watch enthusiast, has selected his top five new watches from the brands exhibiting at Watches & Wonders Geneva, based on his own coverage.

1st place: Grand Seiko "Evolution 9 Collection Hand-Wound Mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours Model"

This is hands down the best. The technique of fitting a large, high-precision movement into a small case is reminiscent of the classic Zenith 135 and Omega 30mm calibers. In pursuit of a smooth winding feel, a new stopper was developed and the crown tube gasket was also tuned, a combination of which is effective. It feels heavy when wound slowly and light when wound quickly, a feel that is not found in modern hand-wound watches and is truly one of a kind. If I were to compare it to the Reiwa era's Portugieser Jubilee,

2nd place: Cartier "Privée Tortue Monopusher Chronograph"

I can't afford it anyway. The case is a near-faithful reproduction of the original, and the movement is a newly designed one that's full of spirit. I never expected Cartier to create such an aesthetically pleasing movement. The dial finish, with its thin printing, is somewhat retro. It's expensive, but if you can afford it, I recommend it. Personally, I also recommend the two-hand Tortue with the improved Cal. 430MC. It also reduces the weak point of hand skipping.

3. Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

As written in the articleThe newly designed GMT is unlikely to break no matter how you handle it, and the price is fantastic. And it's a Master Chronometer, which is great. The balance between the weight of the bracelet and the watch itself is perfect, making it comfortable to wear. Considering the price range, this might be my top pick for 2024. However, I think it's starting to get hard to tell the difference between the different models.

4. TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph

This Monaco was specially modified by Kazapi. The Vaucher ébauches were modified without regard for cost, and the case is completely different. It's like a racing car in the skin of a mass-produced car. At first glance, it looks machine-like, but the hand-beveled edges and other details are meticulously finished. This model symbolizes the modern haute horlogerie that TAG Heuer aims for. If they continue down this path, TAG Heuer may become a strong brand.

5th place: Chopard "LUC Qualite Fleurier"

It's purely my preference. Chopard has a reputation for having great movements but lacking exteriors, but they've made amazing progress in recent years. The new Qualité Fleurier boasts a finish comparable to the Geneva Seal models, yet has the basic stamina to be used roughly, and the clearly improved case and dial are eye-catching. This is really what I like. I can't buy it anyway, but I'm torn between this and the 2023 "LUC XPS 1860." Let's decide.

General comment

　Some people said Watches & Wonders 2024 was a bit plain, but from an otaku perspective, it was a fair full of discoveries. So, I've decided to choose five watches from the ones I saw. Personally, I'd like to add Bulgari, but this ranking is limited to those announced at W&W.

Selector Profile

Masayuki Hirota

Born in Osaka Prefecture in 1974. After a successful career as a regular on 2channel, he quit his job to become a watch journalist. Before he knew it, he had become a leading voice in the industry. While contributing to numerous watch magazines, he has served as editor-in-chief of Chronos Japan since its second issue. He became editor-in-chief in 2016.