Rolex's new GMT-Master II isn't popular with scalpers, but it could be a hidden gem for watch lovers.

Rolex is attracting the most attention at Watches & Wonders Geneva. Surprisingly, the new models unveiled for 2024 were made of different materials and colors than existing models. These included the Deepsea, with its gold case and bracelet, the Daytona, with its diamond-set bezel, and the GMT-Master II, with only a different bezel color. However, this was an unexpected "hole."

The ceramic insert in the bezel reveals a "hidden hole"

　The rotating bezel with a ceramic insert has now become a standard feature in luxury watches. Rolex was the pioneer. Although it's a bit of a detour, I'd like to review its history, as it's important when talking about this year's GMT-Master II.

A unique ceramic insert manufacturing method

　In 2005, the company introduced a bidirectional rotating bezel with a 24-hour scale and a black ceramic insert to its 18K yellow gold GMT-Master II. In 07, the company trademarked the name Cerachrom, and this ceramic component came to be known by that name. In 10, the company introduced its first green ceramic to the Submariner Date, and in 13, it completed a half-blue, half-black ceramic insert.

　A further improvement came in 2014, when Rolex introduced a half-blue, half-red ceramic insert, which initially had a rather dull color, but as far as I can tell, has since been significantly improved.

　Two-tone ceramic inserts are now commonplace, but Rolex and other companies use different manufacturing methods.

　The current standard method is to bake two different colored ceramics, then cut and glue them together. This allows for combinations like white and black, or brown and green. However, Rolex has achieved a two-color ceramic insert by using a bold technique of discoloring one piece rather than joining two inserts together. Why they go to all this trouble is a mystery.

　With current processing technology, it would undoubtedly be cheaper to join two pieces of ceramic together. This is just a guess, but Rolex probably didn't want a seam in the ceramic insert. For a company that doesn't like even the slightest snag, a manufacturing method that leaves a seam would not be ideal. Another reason is likely impact resistance in the event of a drop. A single piece of insert is stronger than two.

　Leaving aside any ill-founded speculation, Rolex has experimented with the unprecedented technique of coloring a single piece of ceramic to create two colors, with the colors becoming more complex with each passing year, such as the blue/red combination in 2014, which involved painting one half of a red ceramic insert with a cobalt solution and then heating it to turn it blue, a technique never before seen.

Watch lovers will understand the quality of this product when they touch it.

　With Rolex trying out a new two-tone look every year, it's only natural that we'd expect a new color, but the 2024 GMT-Master II sticks with the solid combination of black and gray.

　It may look plain at first glance, but it has some good points. The color of the ceramic is good, and the color is similar, so the seam between the blue and red ceramic inserts, which was a problem with the blue and red ceramic inserts, is not so noticeable. Also, the strong impact of the jet black ceramic insert has been softened considerably. I thought it was not very interesting from a technical standpoint, but in fact, that may be a big misunderstanding.

　Rolex's two-tone ceramic insert is made by impregnating a light-colored ceramic with various liquids and then firing it. This means that the black and gray two-tone is likely made by firing black on top of gray. Normally, black ceramic is made from black raw materials. In contrast, in this model, the gray was impregnated with some kind of liquid to turn it black. If the underlying gray was dark, it would not be difficult to reproduce the black. However, the piece I saw was a very light gray. It must be difficult to achieve such a vivid black. Rolex has not provided any explanation, but this seems quite an achievement.

　Elsewhere, the 2024 GMT-Master II offers little in the way of innovation beyond the ceramic insert. The black lacquered dial is fine but not particularly noteworthy, and the GMT function itself offers nothing new mechanically. However, the flush fit and tight lug clearance remain unmatched, and the Jubilee bracelet feels very different from similar models. The watch remains heavy, but it's comfortable to wear.

　To be honest, this model is merely a different colorway of an existing model. However, including the technical attempt, this is a hidden gem, or at the very least, a masterpiece. While scalpers will not like it, I believe that if you are a watch lover enough to read this article to the end, you will understand the quality of this watch when you touch it.