Since their introduction in the 1920s, automatic watches have been adopted around the world, and in Japan, they have become increasingly popular, primarily with Seiko models. This mechanism is essential for understanding mechanical watches. Let's take a look at the basics, including how it works and its history. We'll also explain precautions to take when handling your watch.
What is an automatic watch?
Unlike manual-winding watches, automatic watches do not require winding of the mainspring with a crown, and essentially move the hands just by wearing the watch. This mechanism is used in many watch brands. First, let's understand the definition of an automatic watch, along with the types of watch movements.
There are four types of watch movements
To understand the difference between automatic and other watches, you first need to know the difference between watch movements. The part that provides the power to move the hands of a watch is called the movement, and there are various types such as automatic, manual, quartz, and Spring Drive.
Automatic winding: The rotor automatically winds the mainspring.
- Manual winding: The mainspring is wound by manually turning the crown
・Quartz: Powered by a battery, it keeps time using the vibrations of a quartz crystal (crystal oscillator).
・Spring Drive: Powered by the mainspring, regulated by quartz (crystal oscillator)
Both automatic and manual winding movements are mechanical watch movements, and most luxury watches are mechanical. Quartz, on the other hand, is powered by a battery and became popular around the world after Seiko successfully commercialized the world's first quartz wristwatch in 1969. Since then, quartz movements have been installed in affordable casual watches, and there are also many luxury quartz watches.
Spring Drive is a movement that combines the advantages of both mechanical and quartz movements, and was developed and manufactured by Seiko.
Definition of an Automatic Watch
Mechanical watches are powered by the return force of a wound mainspring without the use of a battery, and as mentioned above, can be divided into automatic and manual winding. An automatic watch has a rotor that rotates with the movement of the wrist when worn, automatically winding the mainspring, which is its power source.
It is also called an automatic watch because there is no need to manually wind the crown like with a hand-wound watch, and the hands basically move just by wearing it.
Semicircular rotors are common in automatic watches.
When worn, an automatic watch has a semicircular rotor (oscillating weight) on the back of the movement that rotates and winds the mainspring. As the rotor rotates with the movement of the arm while being worn, the hands can move even without a battery.
Mechanical watches use the force of the wound mainspring returning to its original position to move the hands. Therefore, if there is an automatic winding mechanism, there is no need to wind the crown periodically like with a manual winding watch.
However, because the mainspring of an automatic watch cannot be wound unless the watch is worn, if the watch is not worn for an extended period of time, the hands will stop moving. In that case, the watch must be wound using the crown, just like a manual winding watch.
The History of Automatic Watches
The first automatic winding mechanism appeared in the 18th century, and as wristwatches became more widely used in the 20th century, they gradually gained popularity. Here we will briefly understand the history of automatic watches.
The automatic pocket watch appeared in the 18th century
The first automatic watch is said to be the mechanism developed by Abraham-Louis Perrelet in 1776. At the time, pocket watches were used, and the mainspring was wound by the up and down movement of a person walking.
However, pocket watches were generally kept in a pocket, and the vibrations generated by walking alone were not enough to provide sufficient power to wind the watch, so they were not well received.It was not until the widespread use of wristwatches that the automatic winding mechanism gained social acceptance.
Introducing a rotor-type automatic winding mechanism
As the 20th century began, wristwatches began to become more widely used, and people began to understand the convenience of automatic winding mechanisms.
In 1924, watchmaker John Harwood developed a wristwatch equipped with a rotor-type automatic winding mechanism, which was commercialized by a Swiss watch manufacturer. This mechanism can be said to be the prototype of automatic watches that exist today, in which the mainspring, which serves as the power source, is automatically wound by repeated movements.
Although he obtained a patent for this semi-rotary automatic winding mechanism, no manufacturer in his home country of England was willing to produce it, so he turned to the Swiss watch manufacturer Fortis, which was interested in the mechanism, and introduced the world's first automatic watch.
Rolex releases a 360-degree rotating automatic watch
In 1931, Rolex introduced an automatic watch that could rotate 360 degrees in any direction, improving on John Harwood's semi-rotary automatic winding mechanism.
This mechanism, named "Perpetual," allows the movement to rotate in both directions, greatly improving winding efficiency. The mainstream of automatic watches today is based on this mechanism, and watch manufacturers around the world have begun to use it.
Also in 1942, the Swiss movement manufacturer Felsa developed a double-winding mechanism, which it patented in 47.
Seiko releases Japan's first automatic watch
In Japan, Seiko was the first to commercialize the self-winding wristwatch, "Automatic," in 1956. Although it was more than three times more expensive than the mainstream men's hand-wound watches at the time, it became popular, especially among the wealthy.
In 1959, they also introduced the Gyro Marvel, which featured a proprietary Magic Lever mechanism. Originally a hand-wound watch, the addition of an automatic winding mechanism improved the accuracy of this model.
Further improvements to the movement led to the creation of the "Gyro Marvel," which sparked the spread of automatic watches in Japan. The gyro mark (spinning top mark) on the dial became widely known at the time as the symbol of automatic watches.
The advantages of automatic watches
The advantages of automatic watches include the fact that there is no need to wind the mainspring and that accuracy is more stable than with a manual winding. There are also many brands to choose from, so you are likely to find a model that suits your taste. Let's take a look at some of the main advantages.
No need to wind the mainspring
The biggest advantage of an automatic watch is that you don't have to wind the mainspring yourself. Just by wearing the watch, the mainspring is wound automatically, so you basically don't have to turn the crown, and of course, because it's a mechanical watch, there's no need to change the battery.
Although the hands will stop moving if you don't wear it for a long time, it doesn't require the effort of winding the crown, compared to a manual winding. After 20 to 30 turns, or at most 50 turns, it should be working fine.
After that, the mainspring will be wound by wrist and body movements. If your model has a power reserve indicator, you can check the winding status and rewind it as needed.
More stable accuracy than manual winding
With manual-winding watches, the accuracy is difficult to stabilize due to differences in winding strength, but the advantage of automatic winding is that it keeps time stably.
With a manual winding watch, the energy from the mainspring becomes unstable and the accuracy of the watch may become unstable once the crown is wound.On the other hand, an automatic watch tends to keep time more accurately because the mainspring is wound by the movement of the arm or body.
The accuracy will be stable if you wind it for about 8 to 10 hours a day, so it is recommended that you wear it as much as possible.
Large selection of brands and models
Another benefit is that many brands offer automatic models, offering a wide range of options, from well-known luxury brands to brands with a lineup in a more affordable price range, with a wide range of specifications and designs to choose from.
Some people have a strong attachment to luxury hand-wound watches, but there are also many automatic models that are considered masterpieces, so it's a good idea to check out the lineups of various brands.
More and more models allow you to enjoy the movement
The appeal of mechanical watches is being able to enjoy the internal mechanisms, and many watch enthusiasts enjoy them as a kind of art. While the intricacy and precision of the mechanisms can be enjoyed more often in hand-wound watches, automatic watches generally have their movements covered by a rotor, making it impossible to see the inside.
However, in recent years, there has been an increase in models where the movement of an automatic watch is not hidden by a rotor, allowing you to enjoy the inner workings of the watch, so you can fully appreciate the beauty of a mechanical watch. If you are interested in the movement, it is a good idea to choose a model that allows you to see the inner workings, just like a manual winding watch.
Disadvantages of automatic watches
It's also important to understand the disadvantages of automatic watches. While some people may not mind these, it's important to be aware of them if you want to enjoy your watch for a long time. To avoid regrets, it's important to check the model's weight and maintenance costs beforehand.
Many heavy models
Automatic models tend to be heavier than other models because they have an internal rotor, which can cause wrist fatigue for some people when worn for extended periods.
In fact, many people find it difficult to move around when wearing heavy and thick models. You can check the weight of a model on the official website, so be sure to check before purchasing.
However, in recent years, thin automatic models have been released, and the weight issue is gradually being resolved. If weight is a concern, choosing a thin watch may be a good option.
However, thin watches tend to be vulnerable to shocks and magnetism, and have low water resistance, so some are not suitable for everyday use.
Repairs are time-consuming and expensive
Compared to manual-winding watches, automatic watches tend to require more effort and expense for repairs, maintenance, and overhauls. Automatic watches have more parts and a more complex structure than manual-winding watches, so it's important to understand that they are at a higher risk of breakdown.
Although many models are highly durable and shock-resistant, the risk of breakdowns cannot be completely eliminated, and unexpected repairs may be required.
Regular maintenance is also essential to enjoying your watch for a long time, so you should also plan for the costs involved. Generally, automatic watches require maintenance about every 3 to 5 years, and the internal parts also need to be inspected and serviced. Be sure to have your watch overhauled regularly to ensure it lasts as long as possible.
If you don't wear it, it stops working.
When you wear an automatic watch, the movement of your arm winds the mainspring, so the hands will generally continue to move. However, if you only wear the watch for a short period of time or if you don't wear it for a long period of time, the movement may stop, so be careful.
Depending on how wound the mainspring is, there is a good chance that your watch will stop if you leave it unwound for 2-3 days. To keep the hands moving, try to wear it for 8-10 hours a day.
If the hands stop moving, you need to wind the mainspring by turning the crown. As mentioned above, you can do this by turning the crown 20 to 30 times beforehand and then wearing the watch. If you only wear the watch for a short time each day, winding it about 50 times at once should be fine even if you wear it intermittently.
Precautions when handling automatic watches
When handling an automatic watch, it is important to pay attention to the following points. In addition to being careful not to subject it to excessive shocks, you should also try to avoid the influence of magnetism as much as possible. You should also be mindful of where you store it.
Do not subject to excessive shock
Regardless of the type of movement, watches are vulnerable to shocks and must be handled with care. Automatic watches in particular must be handled with care, as excessive shocks or vibrations can cause the internal gears to go out of alignment.
Be careful not to bump or drop it, and take it off when playing sports that require vigorous physical activity. The key is to use it according to the occasion.
Keep away from magnetic fields
The internal mechanisms of an automatic watch are highly susceptible to magnetism, which can have a negative effect on its accuracy. In particular, magnetism can disrupt the balance spring's regular expansion and contraction, which can result in the watch's accuracy being affected, so be careful.
It is best to avoid places that are affected by magnetism, such as near electrical appliances. If your watch becomes magnetized and no longer keeps accurate time, you will need to demagnetize it. You can either have it demagnetized by a professional or use a commercially available demagnetizer.
There are also watches that are less susceptible to magnetic influences (magnetically resistant watches), so if you don't want to have to worry too much about where you place it, you might want to consider purchasing a model with magnetic resistance.
Be careful in wet areas
When handling any watch, not just automatic watches, be careful of moisture. Current models are generally waterproof for everyday use, but if water gets inside a mechanical watch, there is a risk of corrosion of the metal parts. In general, it is safer to remove the watch when using it in places where water is present.
There are many models that are water resistant to 10 atmospheres, so they can withstand a certain amount of water. However, some people unknowingly allow water to penetrate to a depth that the watch cannot withstand, so you must be very careful.
Furthermore, even if the model is waterproof, steam can get inside the device when using hot water, which can cause malfunctions, so try to avoid doing so.
Be careful about where you store it
Leaving an automatic watch in a hot, humid place or in a place that is constantly exposed to the outside air can accelerate its deterioration. In addition to being mindful of where you store it on a daily basis, if you are storing it as part of a collection, you should choose a place that puts as little strain on the watch as possible.
The best place to store your watch is inside a winding machine. This is a device that winds the mainspring of a mechanical watch, and once the watch is set, it automatically rotates the rotor. Storing your watch inside a winding machine is recommended because it eliminates the risk of magnetism and keeps humidity to a certain extent.
There are many types that can store multiple watches or have dedicated storage space, so it's a good idea to check them out.
How to Choose an Automatic Watch
When choosing an automatic watch, you need to consider not only the balance between design and functionality, but also whether it suits your lifestyle. Consider multiple models from various perspectives and choose the one that truly suits you.
Choose based on design and overall balance
Of course, if you want to wear it for a long time, it's important to choose a watch with a design you like. If you choose a model with a design you're attached to, you'll continue to use it without getting bored. Even if it's a high-performance, luxury model that everyone envies, if you don't feel attached to it, you'll naturally stop wearing it.
Also, if you're planning on wearing them for everyday use, it's important to consider the overall balance. Weight and fit vary depending on the model, so try to choose a model that won't tire you out even if you wear it for a long time. If possible, it's a good idea to actually try them out before purchasing.
Choose with lifestyle in mind
If you only wear a watch for special occasions, that's one thing, but if you wear it every day, it's important to choose one that suits your lifestyle. If you have specific occasions in mind when you want to wear a watch, choose a model with the appropriate features for those occasions.
If you do a lot of desk work and don't move around much, or if you often have to take your watch off, you might want to choose a new automatic watch design.
Regardless of the brand of model you choose, newer models are designed to wind the mainspring efficiently without much wrist movement. Models with a power reserve of 50 to 70 hours or more are relatively new watches, so use this as a guide.
Recommended Automatic Watch Models
Finally, we will introduce some recommended automatic watch models. Let's take a look at recommended models from Rolex, Omega, and Grand Seiko, world-renowned luxury watch brands.
Rolex "Datejust 41" Ref. M126300-0005
Automatic winding (Cal. 3235). 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 41mm). Water resistant to 100m.
Released in 2017, the Datejust exudes a classic atmosphere. While its bezel and indices are thinner than previous models, its shock resistance and magnetic resistance have been improved. The sunray finish, unique to the Oyster Perpetual collection, creates a distinctive sparkle with the reflections on the dial.
The Oystersteel case, also known as Rolex SS, is also characterized by its high corrosion resistance. This material is also used in the high-tech and aerospace industries, and is extremely durable and has excellent polishing properties.
It comes in a wide range of colors, and is recommended for first-time Rolex buyers. Its high visibility makes it suitable for a variety of situations.
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, Ref. 210.30.42.20.01.001
Automatic winding (Cal. 8800). 35 jewels. 25,200 vph. Power reserve approximately 55 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42 mm, thickness 13.6 mm). 300 m water resistant. 968,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Omega Tel. 0570-000087
This 300m water-resistant Omega Seamaster model features a black ceramic bezel and a laser-engraved wave pattern. The brand's proprietary automatic movement, Cal. 8800, is METAS-certified as a Master Chronometer and is resistant to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss.
Furthermore, the coaxial escapement improves maintenance cycles and reduces the risk of oil shortages. The skeletonized hands and indexes are coated with Super-LumiNova, making it easy to read the time even in the dark.
Grand Seiko "Sports Collection" Ref. SBGM245
Automatic winding (Cal. 9S66). 35 jewels. 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40.5 mm, thickness 14.4 mm). 20 bar water resistance. 792,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Seiko Watch Customer Service (Grand Seiko) Tel. 0120-302-617
This compact GMT watch combines the luxury and practicality of Grand Seiko. It features thick hour and minute hands and large indexes, which are perfectly balanced to make them easy to distinguish.
Despite its relatively small case size of 40.5mm in diameter, this watch boasts high water resistance, making it a perfect choice for both sports and business. An optional crocodile leather strap is also available. The Cal. 9S66 movement boasts a power reserve of approximately three days, making it convenient for everyday use.
Enjoy the charm of automatic watches
As wristwatches became more popular in the 20th century, automatic watches began to be adopted by many watch brands around the world. Compared to manual winding watches, automatic watches have the advantage of not needing to be wound manually and maintaining stable accuracy. With a wide range of models from many brands, it's easy to find one that suits you.
However, many of these models are heavy and tend to be time-consuming and expensive to repair, so you need to carefully choose one that you can use for a long time.
There are an increasing number of models that allow you to enjoy the structure of the movement, so it is recommended to choose one that allows you to admire the inside. Make sure you have a clear selection criteria and try to find a watch that satisfies you.
