For those who are no longer satisfied with ordinary chronographs: 5 models with extra measurement functions

2025.05.03

We will introduce five models that not only feature a chronograph mechanism but also add some kind of added value to its measurement functions. We will focus on the individuality of each model, from models that add familiar complex mechanisms to models that incorporate unique features from each manufacturer.

Written by Tsubasa Nojima
Text by Tsubasa Nojima
[Article published on January 7, 2024]
2025/5/3 update


Introducing five masterpieces with distinctive features thanks to their chronograph mechanism and more

 Among the many complicated mechanisms, the chronograph is highly popular. Not only is it highly practical, allowing you to easily measure elapsed time, but its design, featuring multiple subdials and hands, and the aesthetic appeal of its movement, including its polished lever, are elements that cannot be enjoyed with a simple three-hand model. In addition, today's chronographs are designed to be more durable and easier to use.

 This time, we will introduce some models that have added some kind of added value among these chronograph watches.Flyback,Split-secondsLet's take a look at some masterpieces that incorporate the wisdom and technology of each company, from models equipped with more complex chronograph mechanisms such as these to incredibly thin models.


Breguet "Type XX 2067" Ref. 2067ST/92/3WU

Breguet "Type XX 2067" Ref. 2067ST/92/3WU
Automatic movement (Cal. 728). 39 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42 mm, thickness 14.1 mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. 3,366,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Breguet Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7211

 The Type XX 2067 pilot chronograph is a reproduction of the Type 20, a civilian model supplied by Breguet to the French Air Force in the 1950s. Like the original, it features a flyback mechanism.

 The stainless steel case features a bidirectional rotating bezel with 12-hour scales, and the black dial features alpha-shaped hour and minute hands and Arabic numeral indexes. It also features a large 15-minute counter at 3 o'clock, a 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock, a small second at 9 o'clock, and a date display at 4:30, making it highly functional.

Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama
The new Type XX is available in two models with different inspirations. The Type XX 2067 introduced in this article is the original civilian version and is equipped with the Caliber 728 movement. The other is the Type 20 2057, which originated from the military model and is equipped with the Caliber 7281 movement. The latter model features two subdials: a small second and a 30-minute counter.

 Of particular note is the newly developed automatic flyback chronograph movement, Cal. 728. Not only does it have a robust structure designed with flyback functionality in mind, allowing for instant zeroing and restarting, but it also features a high beat rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour, ensuring high portable accuracy, and excellent magnetic resistance thanks to the use of a silicon balance spring and escapement. The movement can be viewed through the see-through case back.


IWC Portuguese Chronograph Yacht Club, Ref. IW390702

IWC Portuguese Chronograph Yacht Club, Ref. IW390702
Automatic winding (Cal. 89361). 38 jewels. 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 68 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 44.6 mm, thickness 14.3 mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. 1,161,600 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) IWC Tel. 0120-05-1868

The Portugieser Chronograph Yacht Club follows the elegant design of the Portugieser collection while incorporating sportier elements. The large 44.6mm case has a crown guard and is water resistant to 10 bar.

 The dial, with its two vertical subdials, is a layout that is symbolic of the Portugieser Chronograph. Typically, two-counter chronographs feature a 30-minute counter and a small second hand, and can only measure up to 30 minutes. However, this model features a 60-minute counter and a 12-hour counter coaxially arranged on the subdial at 12 o'clock, making it possible to measure up to 12 hours. The chronograph is equipped with a flyback mechanism, allowing it to be reset and restarted instantly even during measurement.

The transparent case back reveals the gold-plated rotor and chronograph mechanism, and the gold engraving on the bridge is also distinctive.

 The in-house automatic movement, Cal. 89361, has a practical power reserve of approximately 68 hours and is equipped with a Pellaton winding mechanism that uses ceramic parts to enhance durability.


Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium Ref. 95.3100.3600/39.M3100

Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium

Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium Ref. 95.3100.3600/39.M3100
Automatic winding (Cal. El Primero 3600). 35 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Ti case (diameter 41mm, thickness 11.9mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. 1,617,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Zenith Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-3575-5861

 This 2024 addition to the Zenith Chronomaster Sport line is a new addition. As its name suggests, the case and bracelet are made of grade 5 titanium. While the existing lineup often features colorful models, including the bezel and inset dials, this model stands out for its unified, subdued color palette. The galvanic nickel gray dial is paired with three inset dials: anthracite, gray, and silver.

Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium

The next-generation movement, Cal. El Primero 3600, was born in 2019, marking the 50th anniversary of the birth of El Primero. This is the first major update to the El Primero, whose design has not changed significantly in 50 years.

 The watch is equipped with the Caliber El Primero 3600, the latest version of El Primero, one of the earliest automatic chronograph movements. Its distinctive feature is its chronograph mechanism, which utilizes a high vibration rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour. While the central chronograph second hand rotates once every 60 seconds in a typical chronograph, this model rotates once every 10 seconds. This allows accurate readings of measurements less than one second. The subdials function as a 60-second counter at 3 o'clock, a 60-minute counter at 6 o'clock, and a small seconds at 9 o'clock.


Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42, Ref. AB1510171C1P1

Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42, Ref. AB1510171C1P1
Manual winding (Cal. B15). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42 mm, thickness 15.3 mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. 1,507,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Breitling Japan Tel. 0120-105-707

 The current "Premier" is an elegant collection inspired by the chronograph watch of the same name that was released in 1943. The design, including the graceful case lines and three-dimensional Arabic numeral indexes, is something that is rarely seen in other Breitling collections, which tend to have a more massive impression.

The Premier B15 Duograph 42 is a model equipped with a split-seconds chronograph. Two chronograph seconds hands are overlapped in the center, and by pressing the pusher on the same axis as the crown while the chronograph is running, one chronograph second hand stops, allowing two different times to be measured simultaneously.

Since the manual winding movement does not have a rotor, the view through the case back is spectacular. It can be said that this movement combines aesthetics and utility.

 The movement used is the hand-wound Cal. B15. Based on the in-house automatic split chronograph movement Cal. B03, this model inherits its robustness and ease of maintenance.

 The case back is see-through, allowing you to view the movement with its striped decoration. Because there is no automatic winding rotor, you can fully enjoy the chronograph's unique mechanisms, such as the balance wheel, column wheel, and lever.


Bvlgari "Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT" Ref. 103661

Bvlgari "Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT" Ref. 103661
Automatic (Cal. BVL318). 37 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 55 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 43mm, thickness 8.75mm). 100m water resistant. 2,673,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Bvlgari Japan Tel. 0120-030-142

 Based on the Octo Finissimo, a model synonymous with slim watches, this model is equipped with a chronograph and GMT function. The three subdials are a second time zone display at 3 o'clock, a 30-minute counter at 6 o'clock, and a small second at 9 o'clock. The second time zone display can be adjusted in one-hour increments using the push button at 9 o'clock.

 Chronographs typically require the incorporation of numerous levers and springs, making them thick. However, this model, despite being equipped with a GMT function, has a case thickness of 8.75mm. The movement itself is kept to just 3.3mm thick. By using a peripheral rotor for the automatic winding mechanism, space is freed in the center, where the parts are assembled like a puzzle. The chronograph operation is controlled by a horizontal clutch and column wheel.

The automatic movement Cal. BVL318 used in this model has a peripheral rotor, as well as a carrying arm-type horizontal clutch, and the tip of this clutch has been thinned so that it can be placed under the bridge, demonstrating Bulgari's ingenuity in creating a slim design.

 The see-through case back allows you to see the striped decorated bridges and gears. Another attractive feature is that it is water resistant to 100m despite its thin case.


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