Seiko's chronographs are cool! Introducing 5 models from the Speedtimer and Presage series

2024.05.09

Among the many technological innovations that Seiko has achieved, one that should not be forgotten is the chronograph. Today, Seiko offers a diverse lineup, including mechanical chronographs rooted in tradition, high-performance GPS solar watches with added chronograph functionality, quartz chronographs capable of measuring time to 1/100th of a second, and solar-powered quartz chronographs that allow users to easily enjoy the chronograph mechanism. This time, we will introduce five Seiko chronograph models.

Seiko Prospex "Speed ​​Timer Solar Chronograph 1/100 Second Measurement"

Text by Shinichi Sato
Text by Shinichi Sato
[Article published on January 9, 2024]


Introducing all of Seiko's chronograph models!

 Seiko has achieved a wide range of technological innovations. The chronograph is an essential part of any discussion of these innovations. Starting with the development of a stopwatch capable of accurately measuring seconds for the 1964 Tokyo Olympics, Seiko's Speedtimer, the world's first mass-produced mechanical automatic chronograph in 1969, was an epoch-making model equipped with a vertical clutch. Since then, Seiko has continued to improve its technology, and today it offers a wide variety of chronograph movements, each with its own appealing models. This article will introduce five of Seiko's chronograph models.


A mechanical chronograph model with Seiko's traditional mechanism

Seiko Prospex "Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph" Ref.SBEC021
Automatic movement (Cal. 8R48). 34 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42 mm, thickness 14.6 mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 46,200 yen (tax included).

 The Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph SBEC021 is a watch that clearly carries on the lineage of Seiko's mechanical chronographs. The Speedtimer collection traces its roots back to the Crown Chronograph, the first Japanese-made chronograph wristwatch released in 1964, and the Speedtimer, released in 69 and equipped with the vertical clutch automatic chronograph movement Cal. 6139, which had a major influence on modern automatic chronographs. The lineup includes models that reference masterpieces from the past as well as models with a modern twist.

 Among this lineup, the SBEC021 is a model that combines a design inspired by the chronograph model equipped with the Cal. 6138 released in 72 with the color scheme that was available at the time. The base is a slightly dark silver, with a blue-gray dial ring and inset dial, and the tips of each hand decorated with subdued orange. The sporty, somewhat nostalgic color scheme and the detailed scale that evokes the speed timer's history as a tool watch are the charms of this model.

 The movement is the Cal. 8R48, featuring a small seconds subdial at 3 o'clock, a date display at 4:30, a 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock, and a 30-minute counter at 9 o'clock. It combines a chronograph mechanism employing a vertical clutch and column wheel with a magic lever that supports highly efficient automatic winding. This configuration is inherited from the Cal. 6139, which was released in 1969, and the combination of the vertical clutch and column wheel had a significant influence on the design of later automatic chronograph movements.


Solar-powered quartz chronograph for casual chronograph enjoyment

Seiko Prospex "Speedtimer Solar Chronograph" Ref.SBDL097
Light-powered quartz movement (Cal. V192). Power reserve: approximately 6 months. Stainless steel case (diameter 41.4 mm, thickness 13 mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 92,400 yen (tax included).

 In addition to mechanical models, the Speed ​​Timer is also available with a solar-powered quartz movement. The Prospex Speed ​​Timer SBDL097 is a quartz model with a modern design, featuring a vibrant navy dial and a two-tone navy and red bezel insert.

 By adopting a quartz movement, the finished thickness of the watch has been kept to 13mm, and the exterior has been beautifully finished, even though the price is under 10 yen. The advantages of a quartz movement include the ability to start, stop, and reset the chronograph, and the ability to implement a split-seconds function, which would be classified as a complicated mechanism in a mechanical watch.

 Even with a quartz movement, no maintenance is not recommended, but considering that it can run for about six months on a full charge, one of its charms is that it can be maintained more easily than a mechanical movement.With a light clicking sensation and a chronograph second hand that stops perfectly on the scale, this model allows you to fully experience the joy of owning a chronograph.


A distinctive "independent multi-lens" chronograph with 1/100-second measurement capability

Seiko Prospex "Speedtimer Solar Chronograph 1/100th of a Second" Ref. SBER001
Solar-powered quartz movement (Cal. 8A50). Power reserve: Approximately 6 months when fully charged. Stainless steel case (diameter 42.0 mm, thickness 12.9 mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 121,000 yen (tax included).

 One model that stands out among the Speedtimer lineup is the Seiko Prospex "Speedtimer Solar Chronograph 1/100th of a Second SBER001." As the name suggests, this model is a quartz chronograph capable of measuring time to 1/100th of a second. This model references the stopwatches that are part of Seiko's chronograph history, and features a round case and the silhouette of pump-shaped pushers protruding from it. Furthermore, the chronograph functions are located on a separate subdial from the hour and minute dial, enhancing legibility.

 The 1/100th second measurement function was used in quartz chronograph movements such as the Cal. 7T52 from the 90s, and was a feature that symbolized Seiko's challenge to achieve high precision. The movement used in this watch is the newly developed Cal. 8A50, which is the first new movement in a long time for an analog chronograph to feature a 1/100th second measurement function. From another perspective, Seiko used this movement and designed it with an in-dial layout in mind, allowing them to achieve a multi-lens, distinctive design like this watch.

 Although it wasn't explicitly stated in the press release, this watch's design clearly references the "independent multi-lens system" of the Seiko Sportura SBXZ001, released in 99, which likely had some watch enthusiasts grinning when it was announced. The SBXZ001 abandoned the established style and was designed to maximize visibility, and its concept can also be found to be related to this watch.

 The Sportura collection was based on the unique Kinetic movement, an automatic winding mechanism that generates electricity, and unfortunately production of the Kinetic has now been discontinued due to the reduction in the Kinetic lineup. The introduction of this watch and the Cal. 8A50 may have been motivated by the desire to once again introduce the independent multi-lens design, which pursues high visibility.


A mechanical chronograph with an attractive enamel dial that creates a classic impression

Seiko Presage "Craftsmanship Series" Ref.SARK013
Automatic movement (Cal. 8R48). 34 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42 mm, thickness 14.9 mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 46,200 yen (tax included).

 Up until now, all of the models we've looked at have been from the Speedtimer collection. Now, let's look at two models from other collections. First, we'll look at the SARK013 from the Craftsmanship Series, part of Seiko's Presage line of dress and informal watches.

 The SARK013 is a model that features an enamel dial, a specialty of Presage. The distinctive enamel technique involves applying a glaze to a metal base plate and then firing it. In a broad sense, it is the same as enamel, which has been used in dial manufacturing since ancient times. It is characterized by a unique, wet-like glossy texture and soft feel, and Seiko has been offering this unique and attractive enamel dial in its lineup for many years.

 This model features a white base with a dial featuring thin, delicate Roman numerals and a detailed chronograph scale. The Roman numerals, case silhouette, and pump-style pusher switches create a classic impression, making it a distinctive model. It is equipped with the same Cal. 8R48 movement as the previously introduced SBEC021, making it an attractive watch in terms of both performance and mechanism. Since most Seiko chronograph models are based on a sporty aesthetic, this model is ideal for users seeking a classic style.


A GPS solar chronograph dedicated to the next generation of active leaders

Seiko Astron "Nexter" Ref.SBXC151
GPS solar-powered quartz movement (Cal. 5X83). Power reserve: approximately 6 months. Ti case (diameter 43.3mm, thickness 13.4mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 286,000 yen (tax included).

 The final watch featured in this article is the Nextar SBXC151, part of Seiko's Astron brand, a traditional brand known for its high-performance models. The Astron brand originated in 1969 with the world's first mass-produced quartz wristwatch, the Quartz Astron. In 2012, the brand released the Seiko Astron, the world's first GPS solar watch that automatically adjusts the time by acquiring the user's location information and the local time. The brand was redefined to its current position.

 Among these, Nexter was added to the lineup in 22 to mark the 10th anniversary of the birth of the GPS solar watch, and is a collection defined as "a new design series that looks to the future and supports the activities of the next generation of leaders." This collection features an edgy design based on straight lines and a silhouette with a line connecting the side of the case to the bracelet, and includes models that inherit the functionality of Astron.

 The SBXC151 features a chronograph function that indicates accumulated times up to 11 hours, 59 minutes, 59.95 seconds, using a central chronograph second hand, a 1/20-second measuring dial at 12 o'clock, and an hour and minute display at 6 o'clock. The subdial at 6 o'clock functions as a dual time display linked to the world time function when the chronograph is not in operation, and combined with automatic time adjustment via GPS and a perpetual calendar, it achieves high practicality. The Nextar also features a titanium case and bracelet, making it lightweight and comfortable to wear. With functionality that could be described as "all-inclusive" for business situations and a comfortable fit, it is a model that can support the busy, active next-generation leaders.


Contact info: Seiko Watch Customer Service Tel. 0120-061-012


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