KH has been a watch enthusiast for nearly half a century. Starting with a Rolex he bought in his third year of high school, he has recently expanded his collection to center on Jaeger-LeCoultre. He is not only a collector, but also a meticulous watch enthusiast who creates his own maintenance schedule to manage all of his watches, including those of his family. His love and dedication to watches is extraordinary, but there seems to be something about watches that drives him to do so. They are not just objects, but are like family.

KH-san
Born in 1953, he worked in the real estate business at a major securities firm and a law firm before moving to real estate management. His watch collecting hobby has also influenced his wife and children, making the whole family a watch lover, which is unique. He is also a reliable "father" who is solely responsible for managing the family's collection of around 100 watches.
Photographs by Yu Mitamura
Interview and text by Shigeru Sugawara
[Article published in the July 2020 issue of Kronos Japan]


"The watch is as cute as my child. I'll never let it go."

Memobox

The Memovox, a perennial favorite among Jaeger-LeCoultre vintage watches, is one of KH's favorites. With a 37mm case diameter, the "JL" logo at the 9 o'clock position, and the fully rotating automatic Cal. 916 movement, it's a typical 1970s model, but models with beautiful blue dials like this one are rare and hard to come by.

 KH, now in his mid-60s, first purchased his own Rolex watch 50 years ago in 1971. K, who was still a third-year high school student, bought an Oyster Date from Nisshindo, a long-established watch store in Ginza. He admired one his friend had and wanted one himself, so he bought it over four installments, recalling fondly the memory of that time. It could be said that he was quite different from the average high school student at the time, who usually had affordable Japanese-made watches given to them by their parents as gifts for entering school. He clearly had a penchant for watches from a young age, but this Rolex was the first one he started buying himself.

 In 73, at the age of 20, Mr. K visited Zurich, Switzerland, on his first overseas trip. Upon arriving, he immediately started looking around for watches and purchased an automatic IWC model. This was at a time when people were beginning to turn their backs on mechanical watches, seeing them as outdated, so we can assume he was quite the watch enthusiast. Then, in 91, nearing the end of his 30s, he also acquired an oval-cased Patek Philippe and a dressy, simple Vacheron Constantin watch.

Rolex Oyster Date, Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe Dress Watches, and IWC Automatic Models

These are the memorable watches that marked KH's first steps as a watch enthusiast. On the far left is a Rolex Oyster Date that he purchased at Nisshindo in Ginza in 1971 when he was a third-year high school student, followed by dress watches from Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe that he purchased in 1991. The two-hand Patek Philippe with an automatic movement in an oval case is extremely rare. On the far right is an automatic IWC model that he purchased in Zurich, Switzerland in 1973 during his first trip abroad. It features a 1970s-style case and a fish mark on the crown. It is said to have been designed by Gerald Genta.

 For Mr. K, these watches are like a prologue to his love of watches, but he can still talk in detail about each one because he has kept careful records of when and where he bought them. He has cherished all the watches he has bought and still has them with him today. He has never sold any of them.

"My watch is just as precious as my child, so I'll never let it go," she says, speaking passionately, which is quite impressive.

 It's not unusual for collectors to keep records of their collections. However, what makes Mr. K unique is that he keeps a list of all the watches he owns, including not only his own but also those of his wife and children, and maintains a special table on his computer that shows at a glance when maintenance is due, every five years. His love of watches extends to the point where he keeps a record of the health of his precious timepieces, so to speak.

Jaquet Droz and Speake-Marin's older works

The three watches in the center, excluding the Jaquet Droz on the far right, are older Speake-Marin models. They were purchased at a boutique in Malaysia that sells products by independent watchmakers. At the time, he was able to meet Peter Speake-Marin himself, who was still employed at the company, and was impressed by his watchmaking. From the right, the Serpent Calendar, Spirits Wing Commander, and Spirits Seafire are now rare treasures. On the far left is the CVDK Hypernova, which combines a chronograph with a Super-LumiNova moon phase and was released in 2014 by Christian van der Klaauw, a Dutch watchmaker who specializes in astronomical clocks.

"You can tell the condition of a clock by listening to its sound. If it's in good condition, it will tick, and if it's time for maintenance, it will clang."

 I'm impressed by the "health management" of the watch, but this is the first time I've met someone who finds enjoyment in listening to the "heartbeat" of a watch and judging its condition. I've never met anyone as thorough as this among the watch lovers around me, and even I, who consider myself a watch enthusiast, have never been so obsessed with it.

 Currently, Mr. K's collection includes the already mentioned Rolex, IWC, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin, as well as limited edition models from Breguet, Blancpain, FP Journe, and Tiffany, as well as Speake-Marine, but the majority of his collection is Jaeger-LeCoultre. His collection totals around 30 watches, and an astonishing 50 including those belonging to his family. The luxury watches, neatly stored in collection boxes, are all in such good condition that they could be mistaken for new, even though they are all used.

Master Ultra Thin Perpetual, Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Enamel, Master Perpetual Eight Days

The perpetual calendars that Mr. K has been using without stopping are three different types released by Jaeger-LeCoultre in recent years. (Right) The Master Ultra Thin Perpetual, which features a moon phase at the 12 o'clock position and a four-digit year display at the 8 o'clock position. (Center) The Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Enamel, a 2019 limited edition model featuring guilloched engraving and a blue enamel dial. (Left) The Master Perpetual Eight Days, which has a power reserve of approximately eight days.

"In the 70s, I usually wore a Rolex, but after looking at the Illustrated Guide to the World's Finest Watches and watch magazines, I became interested in Jaeger-LeCoultre. The Jaeger-LeCoultre brand has a story to tell. Its appeal lies in its elegance, and in the individuality that makes it instantly recognizable as a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch, as well as its in-house movements. It's the same with cars, like a Ferrari with its fascinating engine."

 The table is packed with Jaeger-LeCoultre collection boxes, including the iconic Master and Reverso, as well as the Geographic and Memovox watches, the AMVOX, a collaboration with luxury car maker Aston Martin, the Duomètre with its unique and complex movement, and various perpetual calendars. The sight is truly spectacular. K is particularly careful to ensure his perpetual calendar never stops, as he "want it to function properly every four years, even during the leap year." This is a major event that only perpetual calendars can experience. Seeing K solemnly wind the perpetual calendar for four years, enjoying the thrill of knowing the calendar will never slip, even on March 1st of a leap year, is a testament to his character.

Duomètre Quantième Lunaire, Duomètre Chronograph, Duomètre Unique Travel Time

The Duomètre, which uses two independent power systems to power the time display and other functions, is a masterpiece that allows you to fully appreciate Jaeger-LeCoultre's ingenious design and technical expertise. (Right) The Duomètre Quantième Lunaire features a moon phase and date display on the left side. (Center) The Duomètre Chronograph features a coaxial chronograph counter on the right side. (Left) The Duomètre Unique Travel Time features a second time zone display that can be adjusted down to the minute, and a disc featuring a world map of the Northern Hemisphere as seen from the North Pole that indicates day/night and the time in each location.

 As for Jaeger-LeCoultre's complicated watches, in addition to perpetual calendars, he also owns several tourbillons. When he acquired a tourbillon, he thought that this would mark his retirement from watch collecting, but he says, "This model has a wonderful understated design that makes it suitable for everyday use, even though it's a tourbillon. I also like the pride and satisfaction that comes from owning a tourbillon."

 When collecting complicated watches, one would normally move from perpetual calendars to tourbillons, and then move on to minute repeaters, the pinnacle of mechanical watches, but he says he's not ready for that yet. For K, who also enjoys listening to the mechanical sounds of watches, a minute repeater would be perfect, but since this may be his final year of true graduation, he is cautious and thinks it would be best to save it for a future enjoyment.

Master Tourbillon Dual Time

Jaeger-LeCoultre's Master Tourbillon Dual Time is a practical model with a unique character that sets it apart from other tourbillons, including a date display that does not obstruct the tourbillon mechanism, a discreet second time zone display, and outstanding cost performance. Mr. K owns two watches: a simple pink gold type suitable for everyday use, and a gorgeous model with a blue dial surrounded by diamonds, and enjoys using them depending on the occasion.

 However, as is typical of K, who is a self-proclaimed music lover, the watch he was wearing on the day of the interview was the classic alarm watch, the Memovox. It is a popular vintage model from the 70s, but has been perfectly maintained and still produces a beautiful tone. Apart from watches, his hobby is watching musicals, which he apparently attends 40 to 50 times a year both in Japan and abroad, showing his passion for the sport. For K, musicals may be just as much about enjoying the sound as watches. 

This is a list of all the watches owned by Mr. K and his family (photo shows only a part of it). The overhaul period for each watch is color-coded in five-year intervals, making it clear at a glance when the watch needs maintenance. This is a health check for the watches, and Mr. K always goes to great lengths to keep all of them in good condition. This is not something that can be easily replicated.


The Life of a Watch Lover HN: "The more I learn about Jaeger-LeCoultre, the more I like it."

http://www.webchronos.net/features/110509/
A Watch Lover's Life: Reverso Lover: "To know Jaeger-LeCoultre is to know the watchmaking industry of the Vallée de Joux."

http://www.webchronos.net/features/110392/
"Overhaul" - what all watch enthusiasts should know about, its necessity and the actual service

http://www.webchronos.net/features/83340/